Broke my spring loaded tap collet. Any way to fix?
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    Default Broke my spring loaded tap collet. Any way to fix?

    Snapped off this 1/2"-13 tap in the end of this bolt. I got excited and forgot to press in the sleeve on the collet before backing it out. After beating what was left of tap out now I can't get it to move anymore so it won't hang on to the tap. Aside from beating on it with a hammer and screwdriver is there any to fix these things? Thanks

    Brent

    20201017_061749.jpg
    20201017_061731.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by yardbird View Post
    Snapped off this 1/2"-13 tap in the end of this bolt. I got excited and forgot to press in the sleeve on the collet before backing it out. After beating what was left of tap out now I can't get it to move anymore so it won't hang on to the tap. Aside from beating on it with a hammer and screwdriver is there any to fix these things? Thanks

    Brent

    20201017_061749.jpg
    20201017_061731.jpg
    Those collets lock by engaging three ball bearings on a very shallow taper. Normally when they seize up or stop gripping the tap it's because the balls have broken.

    It would be possible to replace the balls, but those collets are cheap enough that it's not worth the effort IMO.

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    Absolute fastest way to fix that is...
    Straight Shank ER32 1.0 Floating Tap Tool Holder MariTool

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cycle1000 View Post
    Absolute fastest way to fix that is...
    Straight Shank ER32 1.0 Floating Tap Tool Holder MariTool
    Kinda defeats the purpose of a quick change tap collet.

    I tap almost exclusively with this style of quick change rigid holder.

    They make floating holders that take the quick change also, not that that is the solution.

    I'm not quite understanding what the OP is asking

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardplates View Post
    I'm not quite understanding what the OP is asking
    I was finishing up my shift and kinda in a hurry, could'a explained a lot better. The actual collet piece has a spring loaded lip or sleeve on the front of it. When you push down on the lip you are able to slide the tap in and out. When you release it and it returns to outward position the collet then holds onto the tap so it won't come out. Now the thing that get pushed in is stuck in and won't come out so it won't grab onto the tap. I can twist the lip with pliers but I can't get to return to the out position so the tap won't lock in place. Figured before I put it in a vise and start beating on it with a hammer and a screwdriver I'd ask here. I haven't canvassed the whole shop yet but it's the only one I have. These grade bolts are pretty tuff where the business end of the alien wrench goes. I'm lobbying to the powers that be to let me drill oversized holes or to get the threads cut at the mill. Lol...

    Brent

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    Quote Originally Posted by yardbird View Post
    I was finishing up my shift and kinda in a hurry, could'a explained a lot better. The actual collet piece has a spring loaded lip or sleeve on the front of it. When you push down on the lip you are able to slide the tap in and out. When you release it and it returns to outward position the collet then holds onto the tap so it won't come out. Now the thing that get pushed in is stuck in and won't come out so it won't grab onto the tap. I can twist the lip with pliers but I can't get to return to the out position so the tap won't lock in place. Figured before I put it in a vise and start beating on it with a hammer and a screwdriver I'd ask here. I haven't canvassed the whole shop yet but it's the only one I have. These grade bolts are pretty tuff where the business end of the alien wrench goes. I'm lobbying to the powers that be to let me drill oversized holes or to get the threads cut at the mill. Lol...

    Brent
    Wasting time beating on it makes you FEEL better, that's just TWO f**k-ups. Not a lot of use as a BOGO free nor bonus air-miles.

    These goods themselves are no more "unfuckable" than any other hurrieder I go the behinder I be faux pas.

    Go for fast delivery on a decent replacement. Buy two, even. Downtime (avoidance) thing.

    Why did you think "real Machinists" were born with two dicks, like sharks?

    Downtime is f**king expensive is why. Or was it the expense of f**king?

    ?



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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardplates View Post
    Kinda defeats the purpose of a quick change tap collet.

    I tap almost exclusively with this style of quick change rigid holder.

    They make floating holders that take the quick change also, not that that is the solution.

    I'm not quite understanding what the OP is asking
    FWIW I avoid using them on the machines as much as possible, they are pretty much relegated to the tapping arm here. I found that there is a measurable difference in tool life between rigid tapping with the quick change collet and a true rigid holder (ER collet etc).

    I don't know if it's because of the poor coaxiality or the loose retention or what, but taps wear out faster and break more frequently in those quick change collets.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gregormarwick View Post
    FWIW I avoid using them on the machines as much as possible, they are pretty much relegated to the tapping arm here. I found that there is a measurable difference in tool life between rigid tapping with the quick change collet and a true rigid holder (ER collet etc).

    I don't know if it's because of the poor coaxiality or the loose retention or what, but taps wear out faster and break more frequently in those quick change collets.
    Don't see them as popular as once was, but the blades in the Ortleib version of Rubberflex get a fair-decent grip on the hard shanks of taps.

    As to "ordinary" general-pupose collets ... on-size / limited-collapse range TG really will beat ER. FWIW - twice the spend on collets - even the half-mm inherently narrower collapse range of TG does that much.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gregormarwick View Post
    FWIW I avoid using them on the machines as much as possible, they are pretty much relegated to the tapping arm here. I found that there is a measurable difference in tool life between rigid tapping with the quick change collet and a true rigid holder (ER collet etc).

    I don't know if it's because of the poor coaxiality or the loose retention or what, but taps wear out faster and break more frequently in those quick change collets.
    Interesting, I've never noticed a difference, but then again I've never paid much attention to to it either. Now I suppose I will

    I generally only tap mild steel so good taps last a long time. All the SS and more difficult alloys get a single pass threadmill.


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