Clausing Kondia FV-1 CNC Ball Screw Removal

Darkstriker69 · May 3, 2021

I purchased a used Clausing FV-1 3 axis dynapath CNC mill and unfortunately I think the X axis was crashed hard because the limit switch was broken and the X axis ball screw has a huge amount of play. I would like to remove the ball screw and nut to see exactly what the problem is but I can not figure out how to remove the nut from the yolk.

I removed the two screws that attach the ball screw nut to the yolk and expected them to pull apart but that does not seem to be the case because I can not get the two to separate.

Any insight as to how this comes apart?

ee_chris · May 3, 2021

I have a Hurco KM3, which by appearance is based on at least similar Kondia iron. No help here with your specific question, and you've probably already checked this out, but are you certain the play is between the nut and the screw? If that is where the damage occurred, I doubt it would still rotate. I would think something else would fail before the ball nut. Perhaps the retaining ring for the end bearing inner race, or whatever holds the outer race in thrust in the bearing bracket?

Darkstriker69 · May 3, 2021

I am not very experienced in working on CNC mills but I could physically move the table about 50 thousands by pushing it back and forth, the lead screw pully would spin about an 8th of a turn before the table would move even with the end caps removed.

I did my best to hold my cell phone still while moving the lead screw but hopefully this video shows the issue. It is definitely the Nut or something to do with the nut. I would love to think there is a way to tighten or adjust it but I have my doubts.

Roooster · May 3, 2021

The housing that the X ballscrew is fixed to goes down through the saddle and also holds the Y ballscrew nut. To get it out, you’ll have to remove the Y ballscrew first.

Milland · May 3, 2021

To me, that looks like the ballscrew nut body has damaged threads at the end. These threads fit into mates in the adapter plate that then bolts to the yoke.

If that's the case, it's not the ball nut per se, but the threaded mate that either has to be fixed or replaced. But the buildup of chips on the end of the nut doesn't thrill be either, this usually means debris has been drawn into the ball nut also.

If #4 is correct, you might take both ballscrews out and have them checked for worn balls, damaged seals, and see if the mating thread damage can be fixed. Or just tack weld the damaged thread mate and see if that gives you a functional (but not ideal) repair.

Darkstriker69 · May 3, 2021

I did not want to have to take the Y axis ball screw off because it was working beautifully but Roooster was absolutely correct:

Once you take the Y axis ball screw off you can lift up the yolk (housing) which is pinned, then once the housing and ball screw are free from the saddle a 3rd screw holding the X axis ball screw nut to the housing is revealed.

The nut is definitely bad. It flexes in the middle at the embossed circle (which I don't think it is supposed to do LOL) and the Y axis nut is completely rigid.

Anybody know where I could buy a replacement nut?

GENERALDISARRAY · May 4, 2021

ee_chris said:
I have a Hurco KM3, which by appearance is based on at least similar Kondia iron. No help here with your specific question, and you've probably already checked this out, but are you certain the play is between the nut and the screw? If that is where the damage occurred, I doubt it would still rotate. I would think something else would fail before the ball nut. Perhaps the retaining ring for the end bearing inner race, or whatever holds the outer race in thrust in the bearing bracket?

Want to have your mind blown?
un-screw the Hurco badge on the head and look at the other side!

Dan from Oakland · May 4, 2021

You might check with Midwest CNC Service for a good used ballscrew and nut. They are Hurco guys, but the iron is the same.

[email protected]

ee_chris · May 4, 2021

GENERALDISARRAY said:
Want to have your mind blown?
un-screw the Hurco badge on the head and look at the other side!

I *am* aware that Kondia made most of the KM3 for Hurco, lol. I meant that the underside of my KM3 table looked similar to Dark's FV-1.

Darkstriker69 · May 5, 2021

Thanks Dan! Dave from midwestcnc is awesome. He is hooking me up with a used ball screw from a Hurco that will work for me at a great price.

When I explained to him what had happened to mine he said he said that their are two nuts with a spacer to reduce backlash and it sounded like the two nuts had been damaged and pulled apart and that he had never had one that bad.

I am excited to have the option to get it back running again.

Dan from Oakland · May 5, 2021

Yup- Dave is a great resource. There are a bunch of 40 year old Hurco CNC mills out there still running because of Midwest CNC and a few other dedicated suppliers. AFAIK, all the Hurco Knee mills were built on Kondia iron, and its pretty rock solid stuff.

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