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CNC Masters mills, the real truth

Richard Morris

Plastic
Joined
Sep 21, 2019
have a CNC Masters Baron XL 4 axis mill for 6 or so years that I have upgraded with their latest hardware which allowed me to run their latest software. I recently upgraded my 4th axis rotary table to the current table.
That said, I use the mill with a lot of success not daily, but weekly. I mill material from plastics to aluminum to 4140. So I can probably help anyone with questions that you have about the machine.
Also, if you have actual support from CNC Masters, call or email Omar. He is absolutely fantastic and over the years has been the reason I stuck with them.
So, I really like the machine and HIGHLY recommend them. Plus, they have now introduced a number of new models. The new software now has “wizards” which allow you to do the common operations in a simple easy to understand way. (Go to their website and get a demo version. It’s not crippled in any way, you just need their hardware). The MX Software also will draw the part. If you push “start” from the drawing, it will show you the real-time progress on the drawing. Most impressive! It also accurately shows how long your program has been running and the total time required. (Just doing the draw function will tell you how long a part takes).

By the way, I initially bought my Baron XL mill from eBay. I found that it was an older machine 2012) and it really hadn’t been used much. But the previous owner had done something to the Leeson motor controller and replaced it with a cheap VFD which meant that their program could no longer talk to the motor. The PO had also thrown out the Leeson to CNC Masters interface board. So unless I bought a new Leeson controller with that board from CNC Masters I would never regain motor control. Long story short: I ended up configuring my cheap VFD to change RPM using a remote potentiometer. I did that as well as adding a cheap hall-effect RPM meter to a plexiglass panel that’s mounted to the side with a motor on off switch and pot and switch for the meter. I did find that the RPM meter didn’t work with the metal cover on the top. So I machined a 1/4” piece of plexiglass to replace the metal top cover (on the mill of course). That works well and now I can see the spindle pulley safely while it’s running. Plus, I can fine tune the spindle RPM by twisting a knob and see the exact RPM! (I find that very cool). I can also see if the RPM drops due to heavy cuts. Or if I get chatter, adjust spindle speed so I don’t have chatter. (Wow!)
Also worth mentioning is unless you buy support or like I did buy new controller hardware, CNC Masters will not be willing to help you <much>. I resisted getting support for almost 3 years. But I ran a demo of their new MX software and it was very very advanced compared with the old version. So that was the tipping point to me. I bit the bullet and got support. It continues to astound me that Omar continues to go so far beyond in support. Once you pay support, it’s apparently a lifetime time (yours or theirs). It simply doesn’t transfer with a machine

Richard Morris
Honda600performance.com
 
So you are telling me if I had been willing to give up an 1.5" of x travel I could have saved on the oversize load permits? Oh and I imagine being 19,000 pounds lighter its a bobby dazzler to move around

I feel violated
 

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From the Op's website:
"A Place You Can Trust
I hate people and places that take forever to ship or sell poor quality parts and say they are great. "

Wowzers….try not to step in it eh ?

Now we know 1 less place to "Honda Parts".....:D
 
So you are telling me if I had been willing to give up an 1.5" of x travel I could have saved on the oversize load permits? Oh and I imagine being 19,000 pounds lighter its a bobby dazzler to move around

I feel violated

Is that a rain cloud forming above the (un-tarped) machine ????
 
I hope Don doesn’t close this thread for a while, It has the makings of a new "Anyone know what happened to Swissmak" written all over it.
 
Holy shit...Honda 600 performance :eek:

Here's how you make a fast Honda 600 Richard. You ditch just about everything but the shell, splice it together with an RX7, and give it a CBR1000RR engine in the passenger seat. Damn I miss having enough free time to so stupid stuff like this again...being an adult is boring...

Best Engineered Lemons #3 - The Angry Hamster Z600 - MotoIQ

Angry Hamster EVO II: Holy Crap, I drove it! (and now I'm deaf) - MotoIQ

(No parts for this vehicle were machined with hobby grade crap)
 
Holy shit...Honda 600 performance :eek:

Here's how you make a fast Honda 600 Richard. You ditch just about everything but the shell, splice it together with an RX7, and give it a CBR1000RR engine in the passenger seat. Damn I miss having enough free time to so stupid stuff like this again...being an adult is boring...

Best Engineered Lemons #3 - The Angry Hamster Z600 - MotoIQ

Angry Hamster EVO II: Holy Crap, I drove it! (and now I'm deaf) - MotoIQ

(No parts for this vehicle were machined with hobby grade crap)

Those were both awesome reads. Thank you.
 
A few quotes from the website for posterity....:D

The operation is based on a software control system.

Noooo kidding...???

Most CNC milling machines are computer programmed to perform intricate milling operations that aim to minimize contact between the operator and the cutting tools.

Yeah that would be a really good idea. I like all my fingers.......:dopeslap:

Can I fit the Baron cnc machine in a basement?It is possible. Make sure your stair ways can support the weight of the machine. Use a refrigerator type dolly, strap the machine to it. Use ¾” plywood to rest over the stairs, use a hoist with ratchet to gently lower the machine down the stairs. Follow all recommended safety cautions.

It only weighs 800 lbs. so 3/4" plywood should be fine.
 
A few quotes from the website for posterity....:D



Noooo kidding...???



Yeah that would be a really good idea. I like all my fingers.......:dopeslap:



It only weighs 800 lbs. so 3/4" plywood should be fine.

All of 800 lbs ?
Take the column off.... "Off with it's ead !" and tuck the base under your arm, stroll down the steps.
Lather, rinse repeat for the other "part"

Basement ? Or burial vault ?

Better yet, simply weld the mill in question to the rear of said "Honda 600"
 
A few years back I got asked to help out a local guy that had one of the CNC Masters mills and could not get it to run ,,, I started my own shop 30+ years ago with the bridgport Boss mills and after looking at the CNC masters machine told him to sell the POS and get a machine he could make parts with ,, They start with a super cheap "CHINA" manual mill that would not even be good for manual machining and then did a crap job of mounting motors and some home brew controller on it and somehow marker there POS as being "Made in America"

Don`t get me wrong , I have spent many years standing in front of small CNC knee mills and find they really have there place if there build good and start with good iron ,,
 
Wow Dick, you don't mind if I call you Dick right? That's quite the little tale you have spun to talk up a harbor freight level "mill". How much did they pay you for that glowing review Dick?

Dick, I bet by now you might have noticed that folks round here don't take too kindly to random advertising, especially for a cheap junk toy. Now if someone asks a legitimate question and you make a recommendation for that it's all fine and dandy, people here recommend tools, programs, machines, places to stick things all the time. So Dick, if you can stick it out and try to keep your Craigslist ads off of the board we can all get along hunky dory.
 
I have the masters Supra mill, and parts of it are a lot nicer than the specs let on, other parts not so much. The z-axis ball nut to quill was a farmer engineered noodle at best -14 parts, 6 potential pivot points. It took me way to long use the same mill to make a simpler/better coupling.
Omar does sell good support, not free. I used it early on a pay per basis which saved me lots of hassle. Software is easy to use. They stock parts, ship fast, charge fair prices on them. Controller is not a true controller but a smoothstepper like item.
Running a machine in near real time via a usb cable that crosses twice a 220 line is a questionable design aspect. Along with the barrel motor switch between the vfd and motor... like they left the barrel switch because knee mills have always had them so ours will too? Not sure if original owner or Omar wired that part up, but it was sketchy crackhead level type mess, with Reynolds wrap for shielding I guess. Most of the wiring is ok, so thinking previous owner.
The vfd controller is really nice solid state unit, if op wants one I can work out a deal. I would use it over the relays and digital pot I have now if I could find the pin in map- it is a nice unit. I have switched out to a real controller and a lot more power to the steppers. The power supply was good for 1 axis, not three simultaneously , forget adaptive strategies. Also not expandable if you want to add part probing and/or tool probing, another axis, different coolant options (on/off was choice, not air/mist/flood), or disco balls....
The mill leaves a really nice finish, when I luck out with speed feed depth voodoo. works how I expected (better with real controls and 12x more watts to the motors and shielded cables of proper gauge).
I am very happy with my modified cnc masters mill. I am a lost blacksmith working in big steel now, not a machinist. I do work with industrial cnc machines so I do carry a biased view.
 








 
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