CNC plasma cut errors guide? (noob)

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singleslammer

Plastic

Joined

Jun 7, 2017

• Nov 9, 2017

• #1

Hello all,

I have a Dynatorch Super B that I am learning to use. This is my first CNC device having only worked with "dumb" tools in the past. I am looking for a guide of common errors and their causes so I can educated myself without taking up a ton of time on here. I have attached my current issue just to give you an idea of what I am dealing with. This is 1/4" plate mild cut at 65 amps at around 100 ipm if memory serves. Also, this is the back side of the cut. I think my issue was that I tend to use sharp corners where I should have used rounded corners here.

Thanks, Jordan

 

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i_r_machinist

Titanium

Joined

Apr 12, 2007

Location

Dublin Texas

• Nov 9, 2017

• #2

There should be a setting in your software that says "slower on corners" or something to that effect. Check your PM.
have fun
i_r_

 

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DDoug

Diamond

Joined

Oct 18, 2005

Location

NW Pa

• Nov 9, 2017

• #3

Here is a square corner, 1/4" diamond plate, 40 amps (all that we had at the time) and IIRC 25 ipm.

100 IPM ? What's your hurry ?

 

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Perry Harrington

Titanium

Joined

Oct 7, 2006

Location

Klamath Falls, Oregon

• Nov 9, 2017

• #4

Also make sure that the part you want to keep is to the right of the cut path. Plasma is directional and the squarest edge is to the right of the path of travel. That means CCW for inside features and CW for outside features.

 

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singleslammer

Plastic

Joined

Jun 7, 2017

• Nov 11, 2017

• #5

Thanks for the PM. The software has that default set at down to 20%/10 ipm adjusted depending on angle.

 

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singleslammer

Plastic

Joined

Jun 7, 2017

• Nov 11, 2017

• #6

I was using the hypertherm manual to set feed rates trying to reduce slag build up on the back. It really isn't an issue on the 1/4 plate as that has almost zero clean up but on thin stuff (16 gauge and down) I have to spend a LOT of time grinding junk off the back of the cut lines. It makes it difficult to make nice looking signs, which is likely going to be my biggest seller.

I did find the setting for looping corners which is definitely what I should have done in this situation. Lesson learned.

 

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singleslammer

Plastic

Joined

Jun 7, 2017

• Nov 11, 2017

• #7

That is great info! My software says conventional and climb. I will have to determine which is what direction.

 

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adama

Diamond

Joined

Dec 28, 2004

Location

uk

• Nov 11, 2017

• #8

If you look at your torch consumables you will see the swirld ring in effect makes a tornado like jet as it comes out the nozzle, having that tornado the right way to the cut direction is what gives you the squarest edge.

On thicker stuff the bottom of the cut lags behind the torch, for sharp corners you have to basically pause a nats to let the bottom of the cut catch up. On tighter radiuses you achive the same by just slowing trave speed a nats, doing both effects dross to some degree too, its all about compromise! To work out which is which, just take a straight cut in the thickest bit of stuff you have, it will be obvious!

Clean cuts on thin stuff is all about speed, you can also reduce current - go to finer nozzles, fine cut ones if your torch takes them are awesome. follow the bellow link to hyper-therms website, its a gold mine of info, done right slag removal should either not be needed or a very easy swipe off, if your having to grind, your doing it wrong!

Troubleshooting cut quality problems – parts have too much dross (slag)

 

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Booze Daily

Titanium

Joined

Sep 18, 2015

Location

Ohio

• Nov 11, 2017

• #9

singleslammer said:

That is great info! My software says conventional and climb. I will have to determine which is what direction.

Click to expand...

Climb as per Perry Harrington’s post.

 

Ries

Diamond

Joined

Mar 15, 2004

Location

Edison Washington USA

• Nov 11, 2017

• #10

dont grind off slag- it just eats grinding wheels. knock if off with a cold chisel. Much faster, then we just touchup with a flap disc like a klingspor or walter alumina zirconia about 50 to 80 grit.

these chisels work great and last forever. ( I know, they call em "brick sets" but they are just wide cold chisels)
we keep a 1 1/2" and a 3" handy at all times.

Masonry | Dasco Pro

 

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singleslammer

Plastic

Joined

Jun 7, 2017

• Nov 11, 2017

• #11

Thanks for all the info. I will be sure to read all the posts before responding to see if someone else answered my questions.

I am primarily use a flap disk, that is what I meant, sorry. The chisel is a great idea.

 

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adama

Diamond

Joined

Dec 28, 2004

Location

uk

• Nov 12, 2017

• #12

IMHO a chisel is not normally hard enough, the edge soon gets dinged up causes scratches and it does not work well. We use to use custom made chisels the edge was a reground half round file normally circa 6" long, there far harder and hold more of a edge, crude as hell to look at, but so effective its untrue, the handle being nothing but a bit of bar stock, you want enough weight in it the momentum of sliding it does the work.

 

S

singleslammer

Plastic

Joined

Jun 7, 2017

• Nov 12, 2017

• #13

I tried out a standard masonry chisel and that thing worked wonders on both 1/4 plate and 16 gauge. Fastest cleanup on a sign I have had yet and no rounded edges from the flap disk.

 

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adama

Diamond

Joined

Dec 28, 2004

Location

uk

• Nov 12, 2017

• #14

Once the slags off you need to then go over finer detailed parts with one of the abrasive filled brushes in a not too high a speed drill, will take the now clean - sharp edges and put a lovely slight radius on them so there safe to handle and also great to paint - powder coat if your not blasting!