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Need help with machining this part...

spin-tek

Plastic
Joined
Mar 20, 2012
Location
San Jose, CA
The print calls out for a .060" saw cut on this part & having trouble with part (see picture below) after machining. Top flange thickness is only about .030" after saw cut. I'm using a 5" x .0625" thk saw & taking 4 equal passes to machine that feature. Part is aluminum 6061.

95322-photo-1.jpg


95321-photo-2.jpg


Any help would be appreciated.

Trung
 
What form of stock did you start with? If you cut them from plate there can be a lot of residual stress that would make it curl up like that. How is the part faced off? I would try see if a process change to that op changes the warp.
 
The part was first machined on a cnc lathe with round bar stock. I believe it was part off with a .187 width cut off tool from the lathe.
 
Which direction are you working in the z axis? On the upper slot are you starting from the top and stepping your way down? Is there fixturing involved, or are you grabbing it in a vise?
 
Because the ''top'' has distorted and not the second, it looks like a possible effect of heat on the surface from the previous operations, if parting off I'd look at taking a couple of facing cuts before starting on the next part.
 
I wonder if you put a slight corner radius on that sawcutter if it will help prevent the lip from moving on ya.
 
Which direction are you working in the z axis? On the upper slot are you starting from the top and stepping your way down? Is there fixturing involved, or are you grabbing it in a vise?

I'm holding onto the 1.590" OD in a vise & saw cutting in the -Y- axis.

Because the ''top'' has distorted and not the second, it looks like a possible effect of heat on the surface from the previous operations, if parting off I'd look at taking a couple of facing cuts before starting on the next part.

After the part was part off from the lathe, there was an additional .020" that was faced off using a turning/facing tool. Maybe that's not enough to get rid of the possible effect from the part off tool.

I wonder if you put a slight corner radius on that sawcutter if it will help prevent the lip from moving on ya.

Just tried, got the same result.
 
As Limy said, the saw is not distorting the second slot at all, which suggests that you are creating some stresses on the front.

Try facing more off, then try facing none at all. That will prove whether it's the part off or the facing that's causing it.
 
I assume you have plenty of good coolant going through there....You said you were taking multiple passes to get the width correct.......does this happen on the very first pass through?
 
I see the dreaded "prototype" on the print, hope you got paid lots in advance to screw with this. If it came to our shop we would be too busy. Also I see you are using a .0625 blade but print calls for .060 slot, is that ok?
Bob
 
As Limy said, the saw is not distorting the second slot at all, which suggests that you are creating some stresses on the front.

Try facing more off, then try facing none at all. That will prove whether it's the part off or the facing that's causing it.

We tried facing off .090" off top & ran the saw & it still had the same problem.

I assume you have plenty of good coolant going through there....You said you were taking multiple passes to get the width correct.......does this happen on the very first pass through?

Using flood coolant. Looks like it happened on the 3rd pass (pics below).

I see the dreaded "prototype" on the print, hope you got paid lots in advance to screw with this. If it came to our shop we would be too busy. Also I see you are using a .0625 blade but print calls for .060 slot, is that ok?
Bob

Print calls out .06" with a tolerance of +/- .010"

When did the top get distorted. before or after you cut the 2nd slot. also check your coolant concentration.

Top's distorted before 2nd slot was cut. Coolant concentration is at 8-9%

looks like a heat problem , but its super thin . Can you do it in 3 different cuts maybe ?

Currently using 4 pass to cut

95344-20131230-1.jpg

95345-20131230-2.jpg

95346-20131230-3.jpg

95347-20131230-4.jpg
 
I might venture to guess that with the type of saw you are using, once you bury the saw body in the cut, the chips in the gullets between the teeth are forcing the thin section to deflect, especially if they get wedged between the slot wall and the cutter. You might have different results with a carbide-toothed slotting saw with a relieved body to give some additional chip clearance. .030 thickness isn't very stiff to resist bending from any sort of stress.
 
I second the wire edm idea. I used to never think about wire edm, waterjet, laser, etc., but I'm starting to take a harder look at that stuff. We had some tricky parts that we knew we would have a hard time holding/machining without distorting the part, and we sent them out for wire edm. The results were amazing, and at a reasonable cost.


Frank
 
Is a stagger tooth cutter available in that size? you may have a chip issue going on. Stagger tooth would give better clearance for the chips, I have had good luck with stagger tooth cutters .125 and thicker......not sure if they go down to .0625 or not.
 








 
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