Deburring inside of slit part - best tool to use?

So this might not specifically be cnc related, but wasn't sure if there was something y'all have come up with for something similar in the past.

I have a part made of stressproof material, about 2" OD and 1.7 ID. I am putting a 3/32 slit in it to split it so the ring can collapse.



I am running a 3" HSS concave saw blade, 200rpm 4ipm. "conventional cutting" so the cutter starts the cut on the ID and exits on the OD of the part.

I mount these parts 2 at a time on "arbors" that allow them to hang on top of the jaws, and the jaws clamp directly onto the parts.



Anyway, I am deburring the OD with a chamfer tool in the machine, but I am having a hard time deburring the ID. Currently using a 80 or 120 grit flap wheel 1.5" diameter in a die grinder. I have to do it twice, once one way, and then flip the part and go the other way. And even when I do that, sometimes I "miss" the burr, and gotta do it again.

The real problem is, while I trust myself to deburr these, I am not gonna run it myself, wanna put someone else on it but I have a hard time trusting anyone else to deburr their damn parts right lately (seriously, its been problematic of late). Anyway, I want something a bit more foolproof, while being quick and easy.

I am running 16 pcs at a time (8 arbors in 2 double vises), that runs about 8 minutes. 1500 pcs total at this time. I don't expect the operator to beat that time while loading the next set of pins, but if they were able to deburr and load pins in about 12 minutes, that'd be great (we've run these many times before, only now after years of running have I changed the setup to include deburring!!! lol...)

Slight additional challenge, parts are not super round after slitting, sometimes springing in .030" at the slot, can't really hone them. and surface finish is important, must be 63 or better.

Have tumbler, our media sucks, so if suggesting to tumble, what media would you use? ours just turns our parts muddy, hard to clean off, and just really doesn't do a good job cutting.

Was thinking about some sort of "deburring wheel" like the ones we use on our pedestal grinders, but I don't see them that small?

Was also thinking of trying to slit it with a slightly smaller tool then come back with the 3/32 but don't know if that would work or just cause more grief.


I'm open to suggestions, thanks

A small triangle file will sit right in the slit and deburr both sides of it at the same time with just a few strokes.

dandrummerman21 said:

So this might not specifically be cnc related, but wasn't sure if there was something y'all have come up with for something similar in the past.

I have a part made of stressproof material, about 2" OD and 1.7 ID. I am putting a 3/32 slit in it to split it so the ring can collapse.

I am running a 3" HSS concave saw blade, 200rpm 4ipm. "conventional cutting" so the cutter starts the cut on the ID and exits on the OD of the part.

I mount these parts 2 at a time on "arbors" that allow them to hang on top of the jaws, and the jaws clamp directly onto the parts.

Anyway, I am deburring the OD with a chamfer tool in the machine, but I am having a hard time deburring the ID. Currently using a 80 or 120 grit flap wheel 1.5" diameter in a die grinder. I have to do it twice, once one way, and then flip the part and go the other way. And even when I do that, sometimes I "miss" the burr, and gotta do it again.

The real problem is, while I trust myself to deburr these, I am not gonna run it myself, wanna put someone else on it but I have a hard time trusting anyone else to deburr their damn parts right lately (seriously, its been problematic of late). Anyway, I want something a bit more foolproof, while being quick and easy.

I am running 16 pcs at a time (8 arbors in 2 double vises), that runs about 8 minutes. 1500 pcs total at this time. I don't expect the operator to beat that time while loading the next set of pins, but if they were able to deburr and load pins in about 12 minutes, that'd be great (we've run these many times before, only now after years of running have I changed the setup to include deburring!!! lol...)

Slight additional challenge, parts are not super round after slitting, sometimes springing in .030" at the slot, can't really hone them. and surface finish is important, must be 63 or better.

Have tumbler, our media sucks, so if suggesting to tumble, what media would you use? ours just turns our parts muddy, hard to clean off, and just really doesn't do a good job cutting.

Was thinking about some sort of "deburring wheel" like the ones we use on our pedestal grinders, but I don't see them that small?

Was also thinking of trying to slit it with a slightly smaller tool then come back with the 3/32 but don't know if that would work or just cause more grief.


I'm open to suggestions, thanks

Click to expand...

If you made a fixture for a second position you could plunge an endmill at an angle and cut inside. I did a similar job like this were we plunged the endmill first and then slit the part.

pmack said:

A small triangle file will sit right in the slit and deburr both sides of it at the same time with just a few strokes.

Click to expand...

I feel like this will get some laughs, because I know it seems simple and was how I did it when I had to run it when I was new (been 11 years now, was an operator then, and now I'm in charge of the mill department), ... but people have a seriously hard time deburring things with a file without fucking them up, or simply not doing a good enough job.

Go ahead, laugh, it is very stupid, but I'm asking for an "easier" solution than getting better operators who can actually use a damn file... I am sure we will run similar quantities in the future, and I want to come up with a solution that the lowest common denominator operator can figure out without me having to check all of the parts for burrs.

sorry for ranting. It is ridiculous.

Handpiece with a stone...done

plastikdreams said:

Handpiece with a stone...done

Click to expand...

OP's saying he can't trust the operators to do this properly, so that option's out.

If you can go from using a saw to using an endmill oriented vertically, then you could program a small backside deburring mill (like these: Harvey Tool - Carbide Back Deburring Mill ) to follow the mill and clean the burrs off the inside, then use a countersink on the outside of the groove.

Pro is having it done in one, con is slower cutting due to endmill rather than saw.

You need some of these, we call them German Pizza cutters.

Those are for diet pizza, right? Or pizzas for ants?

Dammit, now I'm hungry for pizza...

litlerob1 said:

You need some of these, we call them German Pizza cutters.

Click to expand...

Shit, I need some of those. Where do you get them?

I use a needle file or EZ-lap on slits like the OP's, Those german pizza cutters look like they would be perfect.

guest said:

Shit, I need some of those. Where do you get them?

I use a needle file or EZ-lap on slits like the OP's, Those german pizza cutters look like they would be perfect.

Click to expand...

SPI Fine-Deburring Set Made in Switzerland - 82-365-8 - Penn Tool Co., Inc

Might be able to find them elsewhere at a better price...

Well, at least you could buy just one or two sizes rather than the whole kit:

Fine-Deburring Set: Hand Tools: Light Tool Supply

Ball hone?


As far as the vibe being dirty, it sounds like you need a drain, a settling tank, and a Little Giant recirc pump.



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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Milland said:

SPI Fine-Deburring Set Made in Switzerland - 82-365-8 - Penn Tool Co., Inc

Click to expand...

Sweet! Thanks Milland.

plunge an end mill down the ID before you slit...to create the chamfer first.

Most of the ideas here seem to be under them impression that this is a 5x mill?



--------------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

I'm obviously making some wild assumptions as to sizes, but this is how I would do that:



Imco M525 3/32" endmill, rough and finish that slot looks to be about 10-12 seconds per part. Then deburr with a lolipop tool and you're done. Maybe, what, 30 seconds per part absolute worst case scenario, plus operator change over. This gets you nicer parts with no time penalty or probably faster, and no operator intervention at all.

If the lathe parts are consistent height wise, you could have two parts in the moving jaw as well and use an aluminum spacer between the sets of parts to get you your 16 parts per cycle.

1500 pcs, one at a time by hand, yuk.

I'd try to make tumbling work first. Some small ceramic media, I think. Keep the media clean and don't let the parts rust.

2" OD, 1.7" ID. Maybe stack them in a 2" ID tube with threaded end caps that have an 1-3/4" hole, and use a 1-3/4" berry brush or flap wheel on a drill motor? Do them 10 at a time or something like that.

Vibe bowls don't get ID's werth a shhhh_hoot.


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Yeah, but 1.7" is a pretty big hole, the parts are thin, and a small media I think would get in there and not pack up.

If the job was mine, I'd hold them the way Matt shows and lose the slit saw. I'd be maxing out the spindle, and I only have 10K so I can't go as fast as I should, but getting rid of the handwork would be worth it to me.

guest said:

Yeah, but 1.7" is a pretty big hole, the parts are thin, and a small media I think would get in there and not pack up.

If the job was mine, I'd hold them the way Matt shows and lose the slit saw. I'd be maxing out the spindle, and I only have 10K so I can't go as fast as I should, but getting rid of the handwork would be worth it to me.

Click to expand...

How are you going to use a Slitting saw like that? Is it a slitting chainsaw type of set-up? Hmmm, now I'm thinking though.

If de-burring is the problem, I would use less Teeth on your slitting saw. OR just burn them and be done.

R

litlerob1 said:

How are you going to use a Slitting saw like that? Is it a slitting chainsaw type of set-up? Hmmm, now I'm thinking though.

Click to expand...

I was assuming the OP was using a slit saw based on the way he is holding it.

I would lose the slit saw and use end mills.

edit to add: OP says "I am running a 3" HSS concave saw blade, 200rpm 4ipm. "conventional cutting" so the cutter starts the cut on the ID and exits on the OD of the part."

4 ipm....