This machine is very easy to align radially.
I have a 300c Doosan with the same turret. Had to realign it when I first purchased it used.
Take out those 12 large set screws. Should be 10mm Allen. All they do is plug the counterbore hole from coolant/chips. 8 of the 12 have M10 bolts in them. With the hydraulics on loosen them up individually and lightly tighten them again. The other 4 holes are for taper pins. If they are in there, remove them by using a bolt and stack up of washers to pull them out. Slide hammer if you have one is even quicker. All four pins need to be removed. Then I take a dial test indicator and position the needle along the slot where an OD turning tool would sit. Run X axis up and down with the hand wheel on that surface and find out how much it’s out. Then I just take a soft face dead blow mallet and tap against a boring bar holder or something sticking out to radially bump the turrret around. When your indicator doesn’t move, re torque the eight M10 bolts.
Up to you if you put your taper pins back in. I ALWAYS leave taper pins out. Simply because if our lathes do have a crash, I want the turret to be able to shift. I’ve never had a turret get out of alignment from heavy roughing either. Most times I pull them, the pins are unusable anyways, they get damaged with a crash. Re-Ream your taper bores with a taper pin reamer, and new pins if you go that route.
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