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Drill diagnostics

Eric U

Hot Rolled
Joined
Feb 26, 2003
Location
Eastern AL
I typically machine aluminum. Figuring out wear issues when machining steel is new to me. This is a .250” Garr AlTiN drill in 4140PH. Machine is a Doosan Lynx. I made it about 500 holes .380” deep. Should I expect more or could speeds/feeds be adjusted for better life? I’m running 2500rpm at .002”/rev.

Thanks!

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Are you spotting? If so what angle is the spot drill?
If I were using that drill in 4140PHT, I'd run it at 350SFPM .0046" ipt all day long.
5348rpm 23.4IPM.
Basically double what you're running it at now.
 
Are you pecking? How is the tool held? Is it short, or jobber length? Any air blast or coolant?

FWIW, if that's .001"/rev per edge, I think you're feeding too slow.

Answers:
Pecking .200”, ER16 collet, short drill, external coolant.

FYI, this is for a family of parts. The speed is from the largest size drill (.3438”) and the feed is from the smallest (.2188”). This is the drill I’ve run the most parts with so has actually made it to failure. I’d like to prevent premature wear with all of them of possible.
 
If the drill is stable on entry (so no spotting), then just drill to depth, no peck. I'll bet that's where at least some of your damage comes from. You could also at a couple revolution dwell at the bottom of the hole to finish shearing the chip before retraction.

When was the last time you checked centering? If the drill isn't straight on axis it's hard on the carbide.

And like 'Dew says, up the feed. May have to mod the code to suit the drills, but it's worth it.
 
Are you spotting? If so what angle is the spot drill?
If I were using that drill in 4140PHT, I'd run it at 350SFPM .0046" ipt all day long.
5348rpm 23.4IPM.
Basically double what you're running it at now.

No spotting. I’ll mod the code to use drill diameter to calculate speeds and feeds. I’ll also remove the peck.

Thanks guys!
 
Answers:
Pecking .200”, ER16 collet, short drill, external coolant.

FYI, this is for a family of parts. The speed is from the largest size drill (.3438”) and the feed is from the smallest (.2188”). This is the drill I’ve run the most parts with so has actually made it to failure. I’d like to prevent premature wear with all of them of possible.

If you were cutting plastic or aluminum that would most likely be ok, but since you're cutting steel you really don't want 1 program with static speeds and feeds for different drill sizes.
 
And watch the drill wear land to see perhaps .02 rounded cutting edge, perhaps that would happen at 400 holes. Have perhaps 6 or 12 drills and know a shop that can sharpen them like new. Perhaps even have the sharpener make all the same length if that would help tool change.

Breaking or causing such a large cut off needed is a waste of money.
 
Looks like what you get when you try to spot (to countersink dia) with a 90° spot drill. I had a guy who liked to do that. had.

Not saying you're doing that, and you mentioned no spot, it just makes me think of it. Tool life was horrendous. Brand-new looking drills with the tips blown out, everywhere. Drove me nuts.
 
Just circling back around to tie a bow on this thread: after incorporating the following suggestions: drill straight to depth, slight dwell at bottom, and rpm calculated from drill diameter, I'm still going strong on all my drills, having only had to replace that worn out 1/4" one. I've drilled a total of maybe 7000 holes so far and the suggestions kept a lot of money in my pocket. Thanks!
 








 
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