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Early Mori Seiki SL-4 questions

macgyver

Stainless
Joined
Aug 2, 2012
Location
Pittsburg, KS
I am finally getting a cnc lathe. Found a running driving machine I think will be good for my shop. It's an early Mori SL4 with the yasnac 2000G with crt. It's not in my shop yet so I am doing some more homework on it while I wait to go get it. It comes with the programming and machine operation manuals, didn't think to look if there are wiring schematics in there too..

Anyway, one question I have is, the date plate has the serial number for the machine, but the Date is not filled out. How do I tell or know the year on my machine? Serial number is 767.

Other than a couple buttons missing the tops, I think the only thing that doesn't work correctly is the MPG handwheel. It works sometimes, but mostly doesn't. I have an extra handwheel off a Fanuc OM machine, any chance that might work? I am hoping a cleaning will bring the handwheel back to life.

I have read all the 2000G threads I can find on here and also most of the G50 posts, so hopefully I can learn it fairly quick. I haven't ran a cnc lathe in 20 years and I was just a parts loader then but I am excited to be getting one.

Thanks for any help.
Jason
 
Congrats!

First off Mori still supports the machine. So major parts shouldn't be an issue. I have an SL-3 and still get parts. Call them on Monday and give them the serial, they can tell when it was built. It will also register you as the new, legitimate owner. They also have manuals.

The Yasnac is pretty similar to the Fanuc 6T-B. It had a little more memory for the day.
 
My SL-25SY is the best investment I've made yet. Came with lots of live tool blocks and tooling. Can get a DMG Mori service tech out for a fee.

Questions about things like "what is the thread spec on these hydraulic hoses?" they have no idea about, but they can help me align the live tool drive or troubleshoot other things. For a 20+ year old machine I'm pretty happy with the service.
 
I'll have to get pics off my phone. It is filthy and old, but I think it will be a good one. The price is right for sure, I can throw some time into it cleaning and such without feeling bad.

Next question, when I tie it down to haul it, where is a good spot? There is a hook on the right end, a spot where a hook used to be on the front left, but I didn't see anything to lift from or tie down from on the back. Will I need to pull some body panels?

This lathe is just a standard 2 axis with no live tooling, does have a tailstock though. Think it's 8 tools, maybe 10. 11" or so chuck on it.

Oh, I do think the +/- are backwards.
 
Unless a prior owner reversed the X it will be "backwards". The early Mori SL lathes were some of the best lathe iron ever made. Of course, how it was used and maintained will now have a bigger affect than how it was when new. The 2000G with CRT is early 80s and possibly as early as 79. I don't recall when they started coming with CRTs. Around 83 or 84 Yaskawa came out with the LX1 control.

If it didn't come with an electrical diagram, you'll want to work really hard to find one. Having that is vital to help keep an old CNC operational. Yaskawa is probably not offering too much in the way of support now on the 2000G. The style of drives and motors used on the SL lathes with Yasnac controls were also used in lots of other applications so getting used units might not be too bad.

All that said, a ~40 year old control system is a bit of a time bomb. I'm pretty experienced with CNCs but the thought of dealing with this would have me planning/preparing for what to do when the control gets beyond reasonable repair.
 
My main goal with this machine is to have a way to make my own parts. I can't afford what I really want yet, so this should get me going and if everything pans out and the machine is in good shape, I may be able to spend more on it or find a different machine. I am getting into it cheap enough to gamble on it. I did see it run and we played with it on Sat, so I know that it worked when I put it on the truck.
 
A good scrubbing will do wonders for its appearance.
I had my X direction reversed the day the machine was installed. Most likely yours has already been done but if not, it's an easy thing.
Flush the coolant tank with Whamex cleaner and water to remove any gunk. You should be ok.
Mori has diagrams and manuals for it.
 
The way oil lines should head off around back to a aluminum manifold with one way metering valves. I'd get a handful of them valves and replace all of them 10 or 12 maybe? Don't remember how many.

I run them with the X backwards for a long time. If it's the only one you've run in 20 years you ain't gunna notice no how. Could just run it. Get used to X- for everything.

Brent
 
Solid advice ^. Yep, pretty much any old machine should have the metering valves replaced. The metering valves will be marked with some letters and numbers. You need to match those up when replacing as they tell how much oil flows with each pump cycle.
 
It's not backwards, it's correct. Right-hand rule.

It's the rest of the Jap stuff that's "backwards".

It's why I put backwards in quotes. It's not backwards to me, it's what I learned on Japanese machines back in the old days. Most of the kids on the forum have never run nor seen a lathe that complied with right-hand rule so they get all flustered when X- means a larger diameter. I figure I gotta make concessions to all these kids.

Kinda like Brent said, "I run them with the X backwards for a long time. If it's the only one you've run in 20 years you ain't gunna notice no how. Could just run it. Get used to X- for everything."

Truth.
 
I had an SL4 like that as well. When you get it running, I have a BTR card for that control. Allows you to drip feed from a PC.
 
Hi my 1983 is reversed from newer machines, its the only cnc lathe i have used so i just got used to it. I to had a lot of cleaning and replaced a servo drive with help from PM members. Now it runs great tenths all day and is a tank. Mine is a fanuc 6t.
 
After a very long weekend of loading and unloading machines I have the Mori in the shop on skates. I spent yesterday going through and cleaning and investigating. I pulled most of the cooling fans and cleaned them, still have one to get out and clean.

So, when I put power to it, what is the best practice to get rotation correct? Will the control/electronics care if the rotation is wrong? My plan until someone tells me different is to put power to it, turn the power on only, no spindle rotation or moving of axis, and turn on the coolant pump to check rotation. That is the only motor I can find a rotation arrow on, the hydraulic pump motor has a couple stickers but if there was any writing on them it is long gone now.

I have an operation manual with it, but there isn't any info or steps on dealing with rotation.

Also, what is everyone else using on way oil in these? I am using Vactra #2 on my router, any reason not to use it on this?

Jason
 
After a very long weekend of loading and unloading machines I have the Mori in the shop on skates. I spent yesterday going through and cleaning and investigating. I pulled most of the cooling fans and cleaned them, still have one to get out and clean.

So, when I put power to it, what is the best practice to get rotation correct? Will the control/electronics care if the rotation is wrong? My plan until someone tells me different is to put power to it, turn the power on only, no spindle rotation or moving of axis, and turn on the coolant pump to check rotation. That is the only motor I can find a rotation arrow on, the hydraulic pump motor has a couple stickers but if there was any writing on them it is long gone now.

I have an operation manual with it, but there isn't any info or steps on dealing with rotation.

Also, what is everyone else using on way oil in these? I am using Vactra #2 on my router, any reason not to use it on this?

Jason

OK, generally, if you're building correct hydraulic pressure on the pumps, and way oil is flowing, your rotation is correct.
I use Vactra 2 (ISO 68) for way oil on my SL3 and have since new.
 
So I don't need to worry about causing problems on the control if rotation is wrong for a short length of time? I realize I am likely overthinking it..
 
Nope- just fire it up and check the hydraulic system for pressure. If the phasing is incorrect, you won't have any hydraulic pressure because the pump is running backwards. If so, rephase it and try again.
 








 
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