Emco 320 siemens 810T intermittent power up/down

T

turnworks

Cast Iron

Joined

Dec 12, 2018

• Mar 18, 2020

• #1

Recently pickup up the lathe and started having issues a week after powering it up. I switch the machine on and the controller doesn't not come on at the first try. Sometimes it does the second time or the third or fourth but it always does eventually. Once on it runs great less than 3 times now while just sitting idle the screen goes blank and turns everything but the fans off. Turning it off then back on fixes the issue.

Once its warmed up I can turn it off and on without issues. Temps are 60ish when I have issues getting it to come on.

Using a rotary phase 10hp to a setup transformer. The volts going in is suppose to be 380v but Im at 401v, plan to knock that down soon. Line to line voltage is within 3%.

The machine is in surprisingly good condition for its age. Both batteries are within spec on voltage. I have a feeling its something simple but not sure. I was told that this is a new thing and the previous owner never had this issue.

Any ideas or guesses is very much welcome right now.

 

Ox

Diamond

Joined

Aug 27, 2002

Location

Northwest Ohio

• Mar 19, 2020

• #2

The CNC units themselves may want 377, but I've never seen a machine that expected us to provide it.
Typically a Siemens would be hooked to 480, and then it may transform down inside the machine.
I wonder if it is dropping out doo to too low'a voltage?

Also - you sure that you don't mean 810 "D"?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

 

P

pcasanova

Hot Rolled

Joined

Mar 14, 2008

Location

vacaville ca

• Mar 19, 2020

• #3

All the siemens I've dealt with were 400v. I would look for a separate transformer and check it at cold start
to see if it's putting out the voltage, pretty sure it's going to be a 230/115 that's going to power the control.

 

T

turnworks

Cast Iron

Joined

Dec 12, 2018

• Mar 19, 2020

• #4

The books I was given was 810T GA1. Sorry kinda dumb on this stuff. I just draw in cad then use the laptop to feed it to the lathe and make parts.

I found the main ground was slightly loose maybe from the trip getting it home. It turned on in two attempts tonight. I did look for the transformers inside and found 1 labeled main drive and it had some 120v and 380v connections. I checked and they were within 5%(before the control came on). The other transformer is for the drives and didn't come on until the lathe was up and running with drives on. Those had 220v and 440v connections. Ulmer was the name on both of those. This is the inch version of the machine if that makes a difference.

The issue doesn't bother me too much just a min or two of my time but want to make sure I didn't mess something up and cause damage to the machine.

I did notice one thing when I just turned it on I heard the normal fans but nothing on the controller at this point. While I was checking the voltage of the main transformer the fans sounded like they slowed in rpm like a load was on them then went back to normal speed. Only lasted a second but heard the difference.

Thanks for the replies.

 

T

turnworks

Cast Iron

Joined

Dec 12, 2018

• May 7, 2020

• #5

Update: The controller finally just stopped firing up. Turns out it was the CRT screen/board. The controller has a builtin safety shutdown feature. If a component is pulling too much power it just shuts itself down and will not come back on. Luckily I was able to score a new old stock crt for it.

Not knowing this I pulled everything to give it a once over and it wiped the parameters. Got everything reloaded and up and running. Being the first time I have ever recommissioned a cnc machine it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Hoping this helps someone else down the road.

 

T

turnworks

Cast Iron

Joined

Dec 12, 2018

• May 24, 2020

• #6

Instead of making a new thread I figured I'd keep it all in one spot.

The pneumatic drawbar is not pushing forward(releasing the collet) when the button is pushed all the time.

Currently no bar feeder so not a big deal I can manually turn it while its trying to open and it works. I decided to mark on the back of the spindle the spot that this occurs and its about a 1/4 of the spindle's rotation. I did adjust the sensors a few times and it had no effect.

One thing I have noticed is that the spindle turns freely but if I try to turn the spindle by hand while the closer is trying to open I get a couple of hard spots. Once the collet pops it goes right back to free spinning.

I was told the drive belt was changed so is there a chance the rohm pneumatic drawbar is off center to the back of the spindle when it was reinstalled? If so any info would be great before I dig into it and mess it up even more.

 

Ox

Diamond

Joined

Aug 27, 2002

Location

Northwest Ohio

• May 24, 2020

• #7

Can't hardly imagine how turning (indexing) it makes a diff, but if you haven't ran this machine before, then maybe you should try M19 before trying to open it?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

 

T

turnworks

Cast Iron

Joined

Dec 12, 2018

• May 24, 2020

• #8

Gave the m19 a shot a few times and I’m guessing it’s not an option that came with the lathe. Didn’t make any difference at all. Although in the machine settings there is an m19spot to input the degrees. Nothing changes when I change the value or change the value in the program.

Thinking it’s a mechanical issue. I can hear the air just pouring out when it gets stuck inside that 1/4 rotation so I grab the part and rotate the spindle then pop it opens right up.

 

Ox

Diamond

Joined

Aug 27, 2002

Location

Northwest Ohio

• May 25, 2020

• #9

Well, it sounds like you answered your own question.


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

 

P

pcasanova

Hot Rolled

Joined

Mar 14, 2008

Location

vacaville ca

• May 25, 2020

• #10

easy enough to throug a dial indicator on cyclinder and check runout. do you know if they replaced the bellview washers when they did the push cylinder?

 

D

dieselpilot

Aluminum

Joined

Aug 30, 2010

Location

Northern, IL

• May 26, 2020

• #11

It has a Rohm pneumatic drawbar actuator. You probably need to rebuild the rotary union.

 

T

turnworks

Cast Iron

Joined

Dec 12, 2018

• Jun 4, 2020

• #12

Turned out to be one of the two valves that control the closer. No clue why it was only in a certain rotation of the spindle but it works any place in the rotation now.

Thankfully scored 2 NOS ones for less than couple fast food meals.

Thanks everyone.

 

Ox

Diamond

Joined

Aug 27, 2002

Location

Northwest Ohio

• Jun 4, 2020

• #13

Two valves control 1 closer?

Maybe 2 solenoids on one valve?

Still don't understand how partial rev has anything to doo with it, but I guess I'm not lookin' at the set-up.

???



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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

 

T

turnworks

Cast Iron

Joined

Dec 12, 2018

• Jun 4, 2020

• #14

Heck if I know on the rotation part. The valve that was replaced was the exhaust when trying to open the collet.

2 solenoids and 2 valves. Looks like one applies pressure the other allows exhaust to escape and vice versa.

Im not good with pneumatics so I could be completely wrong on it.

 

Ox

Diamond

Joined

Aug 27, 2002

Location

Northwest Ohio

• Jun 4, 2020

• #15

Ah, pneumatics!
I'm thinkin' hydro.

Still don't know the revolve field in the equazsion yet...


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox