Fadal 904-20 (VMC 20) pre purchase reality check request - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    As far as a good post I believe Autodesk has one listed but if you need I have a proven one I use for my fadals.

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    I've been using the Fanuc 15m post in an old version of surfcam, after editing the post format it works flawlessly. I run Format 2

  3. #23
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    The Turcite in the picture looked dry. I'd check that all the mettering valves are working. If you take the oil lines downstream of the metering valve off the metering unit, then manually actuate the pump you should see oil come out of each unit.

    If it was me I'd change all the metering valves and the hose that goes to the saddle as well. Cheap insurance.

  4. #24
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    Thanks for all the great info, keep it coming.

    I definitely plan on investigating the lube situation before I use it. I have not been able to crawl around inside too much.

    I did wipe my finger across all the way surfaces that were exposed, (Y axis and Z) and all had a nice clean oil film. The picture above is the X and I couldnít get to it at the time.

    T406- you are referring to the rubber flex hose for the lube that goes to the metering block on the saddle?
    Are the miles of hydraulic and lube poly tube ok after 25 years?( if it looks ok itís good??) changing that all out is probably a pain?

    Iím currently retapping the 816 transformer, the push-in WAGO block is not really impressing me- seems a bit cheesy.


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  5. #25
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    The electric lube pump on my other mill has a button to override the cycle timer. Iím assuming on the Fadal I have to cycle the air from the control?( if I want to pump extra oil to verify flow)




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  6. #26
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    In the pic.. The valve sitting on the top left of the pump.. The one the
    black hose and the clear hose attaches to, ugly bluish green on the left,
    black on the right, with the muffler on it..

    On the right of that, there is a round protrusion. Inside that round protusion
    is a little button that will allow you to fire the pump off manually.. I usually
    use a small torx wrench.. IIRC the machine needs power to it(obviously), but i think you
    can only fire it manually before you push the big green. You can fire it off every
    30 seconds or so.

  7. #27
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    Default Fadal 904-20 (VMC 20) pre purchase reality check request

    Hey Bob - thanks, thatís why I love this place !


    Keith

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    My pump has the plunger you can pull up to pump lube.

    the one in the picture is a lot different to mine

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ripperj View Post
    I did wipe my finger across all the way surfaces that were exposed, (Y axis and Z) and all had a nice clean oil film. The picture above is the X and I couldn’t get to it at the time.

    T406- you are referring to the rubber flex hose for the lube that goes to the metering block on the saddle?
    Are the miles of hydraulic and lube poly tube ok after 25 years?( if it looks ok it’s good??) changing that all out is probably a pain?
    yes that hose, it can get damaged if your not carefull cleaning out chips. After 25 years it's probably not as flexible as it once was

    When I looked at one of the fadals I have there was oil on the ways when I bought the machine. I think that was residual from when the machine had last been run. In the 2 years it sat(edit before I bought it), a lot of the orifices got blocked. I ran it a while before I realised some of the meterring units were blocked. Doesn't seem to have done any damage, but If I ever buy another Fadal that's the 1st thing I'll be checking and probably changing.

    The plastic lines will be fine.

    Fadal recommends flushing out the lines with kerosene. I use a hand pump oiler. Among other things that will tell you if you have any significant blockages in the lines.

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  11. #30
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    Default Fadal 904-20 (VMC 20) pre purchase reality check request

    Alright, question about the right Y axis front Gib
    Itís a 5Ē gib with turcite on one side.
    The turcite is Z grooved for lube.
    The non-turcite side of the gib has a step along its length that one would think would fit into a matching recess on the saddle.

    Iím going to look harder later when Iím fresh, but I donít see a recess in the saddle, which means that the only thing that keeps the gib in place vertically is the adjustment bolt. This seems weird.

    The Fadal drawing (top) shows the same step that my actual photo shows

    I figure I must be missing something obvious

    Thanks yet again
    Keith







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  12. #31
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    On the other hand , I can see where you would want to ensure that the surface with the oil groove was making good contact with the saddle so the oil gets forced thru the gib


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