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manaul lathe jaw spacers...

cimber

Plastic
Joined
Nov 15, 2015
At work today I borrowed a guys spacers for a manual lathe. They were .375x.5x 2.0" long. They had a hole thru the 3 piece set with wire to keep it attached to the jaws. Anyone know where I can find these. Or did he make these himself?

thanks!
 
It's a "chuck spider". I think I've seen them in a sales flyer befor. Most are shop made.

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hy :) this type of spacers + chuck wear may lead to a situation where only 2 jaws are in contact

even if the chuck is new, force distribution among the jaws is not equal

however, this is the way that had been used, and generally may deliver good precision for the required purpose

also you can craft such parts ... arround here we call them "cats" :)

such things are generic, and they may not allow you to machine the jaws in some position ... at this point, you may need to craft your own :)

now is ok to have a friend near you with cnc capabilities ... craft a few sets, with scale increments : 100 , 120 , 140 % :)

if you care about jaws tilting and repetability, than you may consider to avoid boring rings for finishing operations :) kindly !
 
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I've always called them "spiders" too.
I made mine out of a hex nut with 3 tapped holes. Every other flat on the OD.
Three cap screws in the tapped holes. Adjust to whatever size you need.

Doesn't work very well on CNC hydraulic chucks though.
 
I've always called them "spiders" too.
I made mine out of a hex nut with 3 tapped holes. Every other flat on the OD.
Three cap screws in the tapped holes. Adjust to whatever size you need.

Doesn't work very well on CNC hydraulic chucks though.

Hex nut with tapped holes also makes a very nice driving dog for for turning or grinding small parts.

Same (hex nut driver) can be used may be used to rubber band hold a part to head stock end center, with having a drive dog at the head end (perhaps off a face plate or off chuck jaws), a few rubber bands to the hex out on the part perhaps off the chuck or face plart,,, and the out end held in a steady.

Nice stuff at US tools.., thank Rob(post #6).

But has the Op's Jaw Spacer been found...They were .375x.5x 2.0" long? Climber come back and tell if item was found...(Perhaps add Di. any time describing diameter any time a something is round may help.)....many would think .375x.5x 2.0" long was like a set of three flat bars IMHO.
 
No wire, but I immediately thought of these doohickeys that I made years ago.

Magnets mounted in the back face hold them in place.


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I made a similar contraption to Zahnrad. I think I saw a commercial one for sale and said, "Wait, I can make something that will cost me twice as much in time and effort". I took it a step further and made it more complicated by adding the ability to bolt parallels of various heights to it. My motto is; Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing. After all that work the original blocks with the zip ties worked just as well, but I was too classy for zip ties.



 
The bolt and lock nut makes the Z length adjustable.

hoil sir captain :) maybe i am wrong, but if you replied at my question, i must say that the bolt + nut are inside the yellow circle

i dont understand the purpose of those arms that are outside the yellow circle ... also why are not simetrical ?

kindly !
 
hoil sir captain :) maybe i am wrong, but if you replied at my question, i must say that the bolt + nut are inside the yellow circle

i dont understand the purpose of those arms that are outside the yellow circle ... also why are not simetrical ?

kindly !

Sorry Kittycat, I missed your post. The "arms" are to give the whole affair more "purchase" on the face of the chuck in effort to maintain flatness. They also serve to keep it from moving around or flying out during use. The reason that they are asymmetrical is that the larger areas ( or the "blobs" ) are where I placed the magnets into them. So I increased the area there to allow for some "meat" around the magnet to make it a slight press fit.

Clear as mud?
 
Alex, what is your primary language?

Dave, Kyle, very nice parts, I like stuff that we make that looks and is proven functional way more than stuff that is "for sale" regardless the merchant.

R
 
They also serve to keep it from moving around or flying out during use

hy / why would it move or fly out ?
... move : pushed by tool ?
... fly out : jaws are not tightened enough ? thus small grip ? or ? ...

The reason that they are asymmetrical is that the larger areas ( or the "blobs" ) are where I placed the magnets into them.

it is a nice idea :) but i think that the chuck must have the tendency to pull the part inside ... if it has the tendency to spit the part out, than this may generate a greater force than the magnets ... well, just saying :) in the end, you know how it behaves :)

Clear as mud?

:)
 
I made a similar contraption to Zahnrad. I think I saw a commercial one for sale and said, "Wait, I can make something that will cost me twice as much in time and effort". I took it a step further and made it more complicated by adding the ability to bolt parallels of various heights to it. My motto is; Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing. After all that work the original blocks with the zip ties worked just as well, but I was too classy for zip ties.

hy kyle :) that big star with blocks on it may lead to a case when 1 jaw is in less tension; still, it may deliver ...


the little star seems to me pretty similar to what Zahnrad has shared ... and if this is true, than i just have an idea : hey Zahnrad, you can eliminate the magnets, thus you may reduce the size of your part, and use the tailstock to push the star into the chuck when clamping :) after that, you retreat the tailstock and start turning ... this may work :) kindly !
 








 
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