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Fanuc 10ma blank screen...HELP

CNC Farming

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 2, 2017
Fanuc 11ma blank screen... HELP Please

Hey guys, I fired up old Mori(MV-80) earlier today and everything was fine. Homed the machine, moved to table so I could reach the spindle to swap out tools manually because the one in it is to heavy for the tool changer, switched tools and went to type m06 for the tool changer to switch to the tool I wanted but the screen was blank. Now it wont show anything. It started acting up a few weeks ago, sometimes it would take longer for the screen to come on after the hydraulics started up, one time it started flashing/ moving the text around the screen but then it worked like normal and one time I had the screen working fine but had no lights like the ATC HP,TLC,MEM or ZRN etc. a shut down and restart fixed that. But today I have no screen...Everything else seems to work except the display. Can anyone point me in the right direction on what to check? PS the error light is on because I didn't start the air compressor up tonight just to check if the screen would work.
 

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First thing to check will be all the DC power supply voltages. Old capacitors in power supplies cause weird voltage fluctuations or failures.
I was just trying to check voltages on it when you replied. At this fuse I get .064 volts dc so I'm assuming I have a power supply issue. Any idea where to look? Thanks
 

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Most CRT units are 12VDC. But, some have their own power supply and can run on 110 or 220VAC. I would guess that the control power supply also supplies the CRT. That would be in the control cabinet.
 
Just noticed the magnetic contactor labeled MS2 is tripping when the start button is pushed. I'll try to understand the wiring diagram and see if it could be related to the crt not working
 

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If you know this already, sorry. That contactor looks to have a thermal overload below it. They will trip if too hot, protecting the motor it feeds. I would check for continuity between the terminals, and each to ground; same on DC voltage.
 
I am not an electrical engineer and I struggle with electrical diagrams but the way I see this MS2 is for the hydraulic pump, maybe it's tripping because I didn't supply the machine with air. DS1 and P24 appear to be dc24v for the control circuit. I appreciate all replies, going to grab a few more pics with notes on what voltages I get
 

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I was just trying to check voltages on it when you replied. At this fuse I get .064 volts dc so I'm assuming I have a power supply issue. Any idea where to look? Thanks

Describe how you checked it. Was one of your meter probes to machine ground? Be very cautious metering around the CRT. There voltages in excess of 10,000 volts used in a CRT that size.
 
The pictures show the voltage readings I took. On CR3 wire R11 was fluctuating back and forth between 6.8 volts and 7.1 Any thoughts? Thanks
 

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OK. I gotta ask why you are testing everything for DC voltage? Some of the points in your pictures are AC so will show bizarre results when the meter is set to DC.
 
OK. We're all over the map here. The green square thing in the second picture appears to be a rectifier. I don't know what it has to do with anything.

If the thermal overload for the hydraulics is tripping, you have a whole other issue there. Have you checked the incoming power?

Back to the CRT, one or two pins of the connector for the CRT will have 12V DC or something close to it I would think. Trace that back to see where the power is coming from.
 
OK. I gotta ask why you are testing everything for DC voltage? Some of the points in your pictures are AC so will show bizarre results when the meter is set to DC.
Because I'm not an electrician lol. I was just going from the manual and following the wires that had something to do with what it said about 24v dc power supply for control circuit
 
OK. We're all over the map here. The green square thing in the second picture appears to be a rectifier. I don't know what it has to do with anything.

If the thermal overload for the hydraulics is tripping, you have a whole other issue there. Have you checked the incoming power?

Back to the CRT, one or two pins of the connector for the CRT will have 12V DC or something close to it I would think. Trace that back to see where the power is coming from.

Ok, first forget about the hydraulic overload. I turned the air on and the machine is currently running the spindle warm up program, just can't see the screen. The red boxes are on the 2 cables that come into the crt. Just take them both off and check every pin for power? I'm sure there is a better way
 

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2 pins on the top cable have 24 volts to them. The thing still makes that weird (old tv shutting off) noise when you power it off even though you cant see anything. What to check next? Thanks
 

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OK. Take a sheet of paper and put it up to the CRT screen in front and see if there is any static cling. If the paper clings to the screen, it probably has high voltage.

At the neck on the back of the tube is a socket with 7 pins or something like that. Can you see a faint glow inside the glass tube? That's the heater for the tube. It should glow all the time when power is on.

Next we have to verify you are getting a video signal. That's tough to do without another machine to swap parts from or an oscilloscope. I'll have to think of how to do that.
 
OK. Take a sheet of paper and put it up to the CRT screen in front and see if there is any static cling. If the paper clings to the screen, it probably has high voltage.

At the neck on the back of the tube is a socket with 7 pins or something like that. Can you see a faint glow inside the glass tube? That's the heater for the tube. It should glow all the time when power is on.

Next we have to verify you are getting a video signal. That's tough to do without another machine to swap parts from or an oscilloscope. I'll have to think of how to do that.

I'm assuming for the paper test I should pull the plastic bezel/screen protector off? The control is actually an 11m not a 10 and I happen to have a mori sl-25 with an 11T on it about 30 feet from the mv-80
 
You can usually hear a high pitch whine that indicates you have high voltage present. Or you can pull that weird suction cup thing out and arc to the chassis but you need to be vert careful. There are capacitors that can store a wicked charge, so you have to discharge it first by shorting to the chassis.
 
I opened up the control panel on the lathe. It has a high pitch noise that is easily heard and a glow in the back to tube. These 2 things are not happening in the one that doesn't work
 








 
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