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  1. #21
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    Dan,

    I think it uses wear offsets only.

    You post had me have an AhHa moment! In offset settings i could call up any offset to any tool, but by keeping the tool and offset number the same now makes sense. The offset numbers in the LED display makes sense now.

    CHEERS!

    Bill,
    What is the software program you use?

  2. #22
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    Im getting there, transferring programs from PC easy enough. Still trying to get my head around the Work offset etc.

    One thing i have noticed is the X axis Brake on the Lathe, (Mori SL3) seems to buzz often. Is it turned on and off when needed or only when shut down? Moving the X axis sometimes stop the noise.

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    Brake is only engaged when the power is off to prevent the slide from moving by gravity.

    Are you sure it is the brake making noise or is the servo hunting?

  4. #24
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    It is the brake. I can see and feel it. Looking at it i think its a permanent magnet to engage it, with a coil to open it. Fairly simple.

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    They are sprung to engage and electromagnet coil to release. Yes, very simple. Your machine may well have a pot to adjust the voltage to the brake coil. There was a span of time that Mori did that so a user cold adjust the brake release voltage to get full release and prevent dragging. Sometimes a DC brake was used and others an AC brake. Check your wiring diagram for the type and check/adjust the voltage if needed to eliminate the dragging or buzz.

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    Nothing in the wiring diagram i could find. Minor issue.

    What is holding me up is getting my code working correctly.

    As it is the lathe is set up with Z axis - towards chuck. X axis is + towards centreline. Fanuc manual says is should be - towards centreline.
    I have to make a few changes to my program to get it to run. Using Fusion360, and there generic post processor. Transferring code with DNC4U.

    Having a hell of a time trying to get the X axis going the right way. Best i have so far is it making diameter larger with each pass. Got me stuffed!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenre View Post
    Nothing in the wiring diagram i could find. Minor issue.

    What is holding me up is getting my code working correctly.

    As it is the lathe is set up with Z axis - towards chuck. X axis is + towards centreline. Fanuc manual says is should be - towards centreline.
    I have to make a few changes to my program to get it to run. Using Fusion360, and there generic post processor. Transferring code with DNC4U.

    Having a hell of a time trying to get the X axis going the right way. Best i have so far is it making diameter larger with each pass. Got me stuffed!
    Old Mori Seikis had the X reversed. Originally when NC was implemented on a lathe the tooling was on the operator side of the spindle centerline. That made X- moves toward the centerline. When Mori first put the tooling on the far side of the centerline, they kept the same direction convention resulting in the "reversed" situation you are seeing.

    Other machine builders looked at it differently and essentially "rotated" the coordinate system around the centerline so that even with the tooling behind the centerline, X- moved toward center.

    In the early 80s Mori started providing instructions on how to switch directions on their machines and by the mid 80s switched the orientation on all new machines

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  9. #28
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    Thankyou Vancbiker!

    All you assistance has got it up and running!. I Mirrored X axis in Dnc4u and now have machined my first Lathe part with cnc. Took 5 mins compared to 45 with a small manual.

    Where about would the Pot be located? There is a large black knob on a pot high up in the main electrical cabinet, but no mention of it in the manual.

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    Post a picture of the pot you found. Is it labeled something VR1?

    Do you have a wiring diagram? If so, find the page that shows the coil for the X axis brake and post a scan of it.

    Mori did not always use the same brake system. Sometimes they were 24VDC and others were ~90VDC. There may have even been some with AC coils, but can't remember for sure. The pot you can see is very likely the one, but I would prefer to see a wiring diagram to look for a device name or wire numbers to confirm it.

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    Its a 24V DC model. That is direct off the label on the brake.

    Pot is labeled RVB.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190805_204018.jpg  

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    That is the pot for the brake. Try turning a bit clockwise to see if it will make it stop buzzing. Another thing to check would be to make sure there is not some chips or something preventing the the brake plate from fully contacting the coil when energized.

    And finally, check the DC for AC ripple. Power for that brake comes from a 22V or 24V tap on a control transformer. Goes through a bridge rectifier to convert to DC. There may be a capacitor to filter out some ripple. If the bridge rectifier has a failed diode or if there is a cap and it is bad that will leave significant AC ripple in the DC power which can cause it to buzz. You will need an oscilloscope to look at that though.

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  14. #32
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    The Pot adjustment didnt help much. Do you know if the brake unit can be removed easily? while im in that area, how difficult to remove the X Servo?

    Always wanted an Oscilloscope, now i have a reason for one.


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