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General Tips For Reducing Run Out
- Thread starter Matty.T
- Start date
- Replies 8
- Views 1,977
RogerCrossley
Plastic
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2019
Smaller runout levels are usually down to choice of machine and tool holder, stick-out and tool reach.
It's also important to make sure that mounting faces and tapers are 100% clean when the chuck is put on.
It's also important to make sure that mounting faces and tapers are 100% clean when the chuck is put on.
G
Guest
Guest
Runout of what?
If the brake disk on your car is running out, I would recommend not riding the pedal, or driving with the Emergency brake on.
If your banana is running out, well we all know what that means.
Maybe the OP means R-U-N-N-O-F-T.
But most of the runout issues with Metal Working is lack of attention to detail, and shitty equipment.
R
Gobo
Titanium
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2013
- Location
- Oregon, USA
Dont be an a-hole to the guests at your dinner party and they wont run out.
Conrad Hoffman
Diamond
- Joined
- May 10, 2009
- Location
- Canandaigua, NY, USA
If lathe work, do all operations and clean up all surfaces without removing the work from the chuck or collet. Sometimes working between centers is beneficial, but not many people do that in the modern world, save for cylindrical grinding. If mill work, use professional grade tool holding devices.
G00 Proto
Hot Rolled
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2013
- Location
- Dirkdirkistan, ID
I have a problem with runout at my shop. Stupid shop dog can jump right over the fence... runsout all over the place. I need a taller fence or maybe go to one of the electric collars.
michiganbuck
Diamond
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2012
- Location
- Mt Clemens, Michigan 48035
1. Run/turn/drill/tap/thread/step/face in one chucking and part it off..all of that will run very true,
2. Put centers in the part and run all and both ends on centers.
3. A part with a hole through, run the hole and features in one chucking, then pull out of chuck to run the other end between centers.
4. Tool bit nick the part To assure the center drill will be at true center of the part (actually the center of the spindle)
5. If you chuck runs out .010 you may need better than .020 turn stock to clean up the full OD.
6. the longer the part ,the more run out you will have.
7. short hold a part in a chuck to center nick or center drill using a shim on one jaw if needed tho better center.
8. bevel the edge of a bore to place on a center.
9. make a centered plug to fit a bore to put on a center.
10. Use a steady if the part is long or tail center would be in the way.
11. Practice using the tail center so it is easy/old hat.
12. use hand wheel numbers to know taper before you turn.
13. when you tickle touch half part clean-up that is the spindles center
14. you can tool bit touch the part to center-adjust a 4 jaw/ often quicker than with an indicator.
15. you can face/bevel edge/ and turn with the same bit to save time with an old style tool post.
16. some times a round hone can make a poor chuck a little better.
17 you can use a center lap with back and forth down pressure about 10* each way to move an off center by a few tenths with center lap held in the tail and other end on a headstock center.
18. some times one T wrench hole will better center a part in a poor chuck.
19. Ok to feel a steady with a .0015 shim around a part. (yes then take it out to run).
20. Grandsons dog ran out. I tracked it in the snow for perhaps 3/4 miles and lost it in all the turns and crossings, gave up to go back to find the dog at the same door he ran out.
21. If you see the General near the front door best to run out the back.
Remember all chucks are a little off but the center line of the spindle is dead on. Something turned in the worse chuck will be to true center of the spindle for all the area worked on..just the stub left in the chuck will be off.
2. Put centers in the part and run all and both ends on centers.
3. A part with a hole through, run the hole and features in one chucking, then pull out of chuck to run the other end between centers.
4. Tool bit nick the part To assure the center drill will be at true center of the part (actually the center of the spindle)
5. If you chuck runs out .010 you may need better than .020 turn stock to clean up the full OD.
6. the longer the part ,the more run out you will have.
7. short hold a part in a chuck to center nick or center drill using a shim on one jaw if needed tho better center.
8. bevel the edge of a bore to place on a center.
9. make a centered plug to fit a bore to put on a center.
10. Use a steady if the part is long or tail center would be in the way.
11. Practice using the tail center so it is easy/old hat.
12. use hand wheel numbers to know taper before you turn.
13. when you tickle touch half part clean-up that is the spindles center
14. you can tool bit touch the part to center-adjust a 4 jaw/ often quicker than with an indicator.
15. you can face/bevel edge/ and turn with the same bit to save time with an old style tool post.
16. some times a round hone can make a poor chuck a little better.
17 you can use a center lap with back and forth down pressure about 10* each way to move an off center by a few tenths with center lap held in the tail and other end on a headstock center.
18. some times one T wrench hole will better center a part in a poor chuck.
19. Ok to feel a steady with a .0015 shim around a part. (yes then take it out to run).
20. Grandsons dog ran out. I tracked it in the snow for perhaps 3/4 miles and lost it in all the turns and crossings, gave up to go back to find the dog at the same door he ran out.
21. If you see the General near the front door best to run out the back.
Remember all chucks are a little off but the center line of the spindle is dead on. Something turned in the worse chuck will be to true center of the spindle for all the area worked on..just the stub left in the chuck will be off.
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