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Guhring "diver" endmill

Interesting. Looks like there was a fair amount of deflection either in the spindle or tool/tool holder during the cutting, as the surface finishes looked a little suspect even at the feeds they were using. This is really shown at the end of the video, where the finish pass doesn't clean up the bottom 1/4 of the wall. If not deflection, I wonder what caused that?
 
Or they purposely kept it off the floor. You can see on the HPC roughing right before the finish pass it leaves floor material there too. I suspect it has more to do with the corner edge geometry that also allows it to drill and ramp so steeply.

I'd try one for free, though!

Edit: watching again, I think it's a wear pattern.
 
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LOL. This comment on YT is great

I feel like this wont work on my crap mill


I've got a set of the Divers sitting here on my desk still.. Comes with one of each size. Haven't had a chance to play with it yet. :(

A lot of those demo videos are fun to watch, but it's easy not to think about what machine they're using and it doesn't always compare to what a lot of people are actually using.

I'll try it one of these days, but I really feel like that commenter and it won't necessarily work on my Haas just like the video..

I'm guessing it's some burly 50 taper. (the holder looks pretty big too when it shows the drilling) I really don't see my Haas doing that. lol. Maybe with a lot of racket or screeching!
 
This is really shown at the end of the video, where the finish pass doesn't clean up the bottom 1/4 of the wall. If not deflection, I wonder what caused that?


It can't be deflection. Deflection during climb milling, would leave more stock to clean up, not less.
 
I've used a 1/2" Diver before. I put it in a 2" ish endmill holder in a Doosan 40 taper mill. My take on it out the box is that the endmill has way too much projection out of the holder with the weldon flat. I had to slow the rpm's way down to do a full slot. It does work well for plunging straight into the part, but I would use it as a roughing endmill. I spoke to my Guhring rep about it and he did say that a finishing endmill would be a good idea in most cases. I also asked if the weldon flat could be ground farther down the shank for less projection out of the endmill holder. I want to try it again but I will put it in a Big Plus holder this time.

Jay, the endmill is basically a 180 degree 4 flute drill. Two of the flutes are ground like a drill for plunging. I really like the plunging and steep ramping capability of the endmill. I think it will take a little tweaking compared to standard endmill.
 
It can't be deflection. Deflection during climb milling, would leave more stock to clean up, not less.

Agreed in the case of "simple" deflection, but perhaps it can actually cut oversize while wobbling, that would give you a shallow upside-down V cut. Then when the lighter finish pass comes it doesn't get the bottom of the V. Yeah, it's a stretch but I would like to know how it happened.
 
Agreed in the case of "simple" deflection, but perhaps it can actually cut oversize while wobbling, that would give you a shallow upside-down V cut. Then when the lighter finish pass comes it doesn't get the bottom of the V. Yeah, it's a stretch but I would like to know how it happened.




Never thought of it happening that way, I suppose that could happen.
 
diver1.jpg
 
I am an AE for Toyoda and at my Tech center I share a shop space and Machines with Fraisa Cutting Tools. We are doing cuts like these all the time on our Toyoda Cat40 Verticals and Horizontals. I have seen some testing of these divers and they are a pretty impressive tool but the Fraisa tool provide for better surface finishes IMO.
 
I am an AE for Toyoda and at my Tech center I share a shop space and Machines with Fraisa Cutting Tools. We are doing cuts like these all the time on our Toyoda Cat40 Verticals and Horizontals. I have seen some testing of these divers and they are a pretty impressive tool but the Fraisa tool provide for better surface finishes IMO.

I've always wanted to try Fraisa endmills. No clue who sells them.
Need to do some research.
 
I have been seeing this for 60 years. Its a good end mill ,but when ruffing with a sharp cornered cutter of any kind wether it is a mill or a lathe or a hacksaw or woodsaw ,that SHARP CORMER will be long gone and the rest of the cutter will stil be very usable.You cant beat physics .Edwin Dirnbeck
 
I have been seeing this for 60 years. Its a good end mill ,but when ruffing with a sharp cornered cutter of any kind wether it is a mill or a lathe or a hacksaw or woodsaw ,that SHARP CORMER will be long gone and the rest of the cutter will stil be very usable.You cant beat physics .Edwin Dirnbeck

Looks like a .02-.03" radius on that tool in the photo that thesidetalker posted.
 








 
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