J
Johnny Larue
Guest
so you gotta make those .391 X 27 odd threads in machinist handbook...but maybe customer says I like .393 X 32 threads instead....NO PROBLEMO....heres a quick tip for dialing em in....I had a nut supplied by customer but no gauge for this....or sometimes you have to match one piece to another. whatever. so ya do the G76 thing but your missing some info...so a general rule of thumb is this....use the numbers of nearest thread...in this case its the .391 X 27.....so you use the minor diameter of the 27's which is .343....and you need the P which is single depth of thread...and SAVE THIS you'll use it a lot...you take .61343 / threads per inch = single depth of thread...which is .61343 / 32 = .01916and this figure...you take half of that and add to the X offset POSITIVE which is .009....so that you can come down to tight size if needed...leaving it ZERO might undercut the threads since you used nearest threads numbers if they are smaller....I used a NTK2 top notch profiling carbide tip since they are tiny threads....so with that in mind you would program and figure it this way...also I was cutting 303 SS which is kinda hard...now a lot will disagree but try this also...I ALWAYS run 100RPM's....theres a reason why but its complicated...the only time I vary this is if huge force is needed....like a 3 inch X 4 threads per in SS...then I had to run like 300...all tapping on a mill or threading on a lathe is GENERALLY LEFT AT 100RPM's....theres exceptions of course for all the captain obviouslies including plastics (word police disclaimer here) ...if you want to know why I will tell you...but in another thread...make these and ye shall see...use 100...see how nice they are...use any material...see how nice they are...nuff said...turned the boss to .385 for threads by .35 long....this way can be used for many threads...and of course it can be modified...but try it my way first and with these tiny cuts....it will only take a minute longer but you will see no burrs or not much...I do rub it with like 400 wet or dry or stone off tops of threads and make pretty...don't alter the RPMs until you actually try it...once I explain to you why you'll have a machining revolutional moment...and might give yourself a..... DOH....ENJOY
M98 P999 (SAFE RETRACT)
G04 T303 (DWELL AND CHANGE TOOL AT SAFE RETRACT)
S100 M13
G00 X.42 Z.5 (Z IS GENERALLY LEFT AT .5 POSITIVE OR 3 THREADS FOR CONTROL TO CATCH UP INCASE YOU USE THIS FOR PLUG AND PLAY AND DO BIG THREADS AND FORGET)
G76 P020029 Q00200 R.0003
G76 X.343 Z-.348 P01916 Q00150 F.03125
G00 Z.5
M98 P999
M30
1st G76 line is 02 finish passes pull straight out and compound infeed at 29 degrees
Q is first pass
R is stock left for finish pass per side
2nd G76 line P is single depth of thread and is ALWAYS POSITIVE
Q depth for each pass
F threads per inch.....1 divided by 32 in this case
M98 P999 (SAFE RETRACT)
G04 T303 (DWELL AND CHANGE TOOL AT SAFE RETRACT)
S100 M13
G00 X.42 Z.5 (Z IS GENERALLY LEFT AT .5 POSITIVE OR 3 THREADS FOR CONTROL TO CATCH UP INCASE YOU USE THIS FOR PLUG AND PLAY AND DO BIG THREADS AND FORGET)
G76 P020029 Q00200 R.0003
G76 X.343 Z-.348 P01916 Q00150 F.03125
G00 Z.5
M98 P999
M30
1st G76 line is 02 finish passes pull straight out and compound infeed at 29 degrees
Q is first pass
R is stock left for finish pass per side
2nd G76 line P is single depth of thread and is ALWAYS POSITIVE
Q depth for each pass
F threads per inch.....1 divided by 32 in this case