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Haas vector drive issue. (burned crispy photos)

Thingsthatfly2

Plastic
Joined
Nov 1, 2020
Picked up a used haas SL20 to do some small jobs on.

First real paying job for the machine and when I went to run the part the spindle would not start. Gave a code 123.

So I removed the vector drive and ohmed it out. it all ohmed out correct except for checking the bridge rectifier. Its showing ohms
125439982_3694934183901932_3262956632657916357_n.jpg

Pulled the cover and found some crispies.
125503673_796000247849763_492239837307832025_n.jpg

125460555_407789723725839_8615882539279832062_n.jpg

I sure could use some help since I am currently supposed to be running parts on this machine. I can replace the vector drive but what caused this? Afraid of throwing on this expensive part and then having it blow again. I do get a variance in voltage here in my shop and recently we went several days without power. Any help is appreciated so I don't lose my customers. I have a haas ST20y on the way but It wont be here soon enough. The part is a little too complex for me to manually machine.
 
Picked up a used haas SL20 to do some small jobs on.

First real paying job for the machine and when I went to run the part the spindle would not start. Gave a code 123.

So I removed the vector drive and ohmed it out. it all ohmed out correct except for checking the bridge rectifier. Its showing ohms
View attachment 304666

Pulled the cover and found some crispies.
View attachment 304664

View attachment 304667

I sure could use some help since I am currently supposed to be running parts on this machine. I can replace the vector drive but what caused this? Afraid of throwing on this expensive part and then having it blow again. I do get a variance in voltage here in my shop and recently we went several days without power. Any help is appreciated so I don't lose my customers. I have a haas ST20y on the way but It wont be here soon enough. The part is a little too complex for me to manually machine.

The second photo is just some high power resisters dissipating a lot of heat and charring the board - probably not an issue but it wouldn't hurt to pull, measure, and resolder them.

The last photo looks like a tantalum cap, generally they are very reliable and it takes an external event to kill them, but they can fail just because, and the failure mode tends to be a dead short followed by a pop and you are left with what you see.

There is a reasonable chance that replacing that cap might be all that's required, but how to determine it's value in order to replace it... Probably have to look at an identical good board.
 
Any spare drives on EBay?

A main power transistor on the base of a drive can fail, and this will take out components on the circuit board.

With a decent wiring diagram, it’s usually not too difficult to retrofit a different brand drive if necessary...

Good luck with it,

ToolCat
 
The second photo is just some high power resisters dissipating a lot of heat and charring the board - probably not an issue but it wouldn't hurt to pull, measure, and resolder them.

And if going that far, fab up a small heat sink that can fit in the available space without compromising other components.

I've also poked holes in control boxes and added my own additional fans and meshed outlets. Just watch the chips when cutting holes, I try to have a helper with a vac when doing such work.
 
Think I found the culprit. I have been having large voltage swings since they just replaced a bunch of transformers on my street
 
turns out when they replaced some of the transformers on my street they knocked my nutural wire loose off the transformer. they replaced it and all is well.
 
I bought a rebuilt vector drive from Jason at CNC service company. They walked me through checking out the rest of the machine and I learned a bunch. Put the new vector in today and im running parts. Fantastic!
 








 
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