Hardwire to Soft Key? Old Mits

1990 Mits L2 (?) control.
(ser #00002)

For whatever reason - when the bar feeder reaches End Of Bar, the control normally doesn't "see" it right away.
It might run 2, 3, maybe 5 more parts, and then it says "Oh, the bar is done" and stops.

Normally this is not a problem and the worst is that the machine keeps cutting air.
However (and I can't figger it out) for some reason - on this particular job, it is somehow pulling the "drop" out of the collet and continuing, and then it blows the Guide Bushing synch belt, the part quits turning, and X1 alarms out under heavy thrust.

So I ended up mounting a limit switch to the bar feeder, added a timer, and hooked it into the E-STOP circuit.
Now, when it reaches the EOB when feeding out, it has a few seconds to close the collet, and Turret 1 to go home and the program reset.
About then - the timer goes off and puts the machine in E-STOP.


Well, having hardly ever hit the E-STOP button in the 13 (?) years that I have had this machine - it has now come to my attention that after E-STOP, this machine needs HOMED aggin.

Well, at least that is a vast improvement on taking the synch shaft apart and replacing the belt, changing a cpl carbide inserts, and quite possibly support blade and/or top clamp for the cut-off. So - I'm gaining...

It would be better to move the shut-down circuit to the OFF button, but that is a membrane button, but I'm guessing that I could prolly solder my warrs to it if need be...
Actually - the FEED HOLD button may work better...


BUT - what I would have preferred to doo from the git-go is to have it switched into "ONE PART" mode, so that it just finishes the cycle, and if no-one is around, the machine will shut down on it's own after 10 minutes.

The reason that this is a major improvement is b/c that the rear turret (X2) is on a slight angle. Let's call it 15* slant bed...
X2 servo motor doesn't appear to have a brake, well, Y (it's on the rear turret) doesn't either. If either X2 or Y have moved in the last 2-3 minutes, and you power the machine down, those two axi's are likely to drift to the end of travel, resulting - yet aggin - in having to be HOMED aggin....

However - the "ONE PART" button is a soft key at the bottom of one particular page. I'm guessing that this is not worth chasing on a machine that is only one major issue from retirement. (broken hip?) But - by chance would anyone know the likely-hood that there would be an actual external INPUT somewhere that a fella could get to?

I'm guessing that this is an internal only input?


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Ox said:

1990 Mits L2 (?) control.
(ser #00002)

For whatever reason - when the bar feeder reaches End Of Bar, the control normally doesn't "see" it right away.
It might run 2, 3, maybe 5 more parts, and then it says "Oh, the bar is done" and stops.

Click to expand...

Has it always been like this?????

Ox said:

.....It would be better to move the shut-down circuit to the OFF button, but that is a membrane button, but I'm guessing that I could prolly solder my warrs to it if need be...
Actually - the FEED HOLD button may work better...

Click to expand...

In either case, those are almost guaranteed to be NC switches so you would need your switch wired in series, not parallel.

Ox said:

.....However - the "ONE PART" button is a soft key at the bottom of one particular page. I'm guessing that this is not worth chasing on a machine that is only one major issue from retirement. (broken hip?) But - by chance would anyone know the likely-hood that there would be an actual external INPUT somewhere that a fella could get to?

I'm guessing that this is an internal only input?

Click to expand...

If there is a unused input on the I/O board and you want to edit the ladder you could make that work. I don't have any info on the L2 control so can not point you which R addresses you need to work with tho.

Vancbiker said:

Has it always been like this?????

Yeah. As far as how I know how to run it anyhow.
Tornos wants it ran some other way (big macro basically) and I don't know how, nor have taken time to learn it.
I run it old skewl and all is fine - 'cept it doesn't stop at EOB right away, and it doesn't auto load a new bar.
This model is as rare as hens teeth in Europe, and almost non-existant in the US, and no-one at Tornos even recognized the model back 13 yrs ago, so not much asking....





In either case, those are almost guaranteed to be NC switches so you would need your switch wired in series, not parallel.

I'm not 100% sure what you mean there.



If there is a unused input on the I/O board and you want to edit the ladder you could make that work. I don't have any info on the L2 control so can not point you which R addresses you need to work with tho.

That's about what I guessed, and we're not getting that involved for sure!

Click to expand...

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Thanks
Ox

I was thinking that these points were a little more "pronounced".
That may be out of my soldering league.
Maybe I should git my EE to doo that for me...

Here is the card.
I'm sure that my tech knows what to doo, but likely related to what you are saying - I only git 9VDC accrost the points?

I'm expecting 5 or 24.
???


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Can you set a part counter to stop before end of stock?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ox said:

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I'm not 100% sure what you mean there.

Thanks
Ox

Click to expand...

Power off and Feed hold switches are almost always a closed switch in their normal condition. That way when you press the switch the circuit is opened and the power goes off or the feed stops. To add another switch, it too must be a Normally Closed (NC) switch and be wired in series. This means one switch wired in line with the other so that if either one opens, the circuit is opened.

Of course!


And that s'plains why I'm not getting the V that I'm expecting!
(Accrost the pins - not to ground)





I could splice into the ribbon if it comes to it, but I just finished the 3rd bar now - and no drama!





No count-down counter.



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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Ox said:

.......I'm sure that my tech knows what to doo, but likely related to what you are saying - I only git 9VDC accrost the points?

I'm expecting 5 or 24.
???....

Click to expand...

As soon as you said Tornos all things go to spit. Typically all I/O would be 24V on a Mitsu control. That said, a builder could try to do their own thing and maybe use 9V. If you are having a tech look at it, he (she) could check to see if 9V is the design voltage or if something is not working properly

I've only ever worked on one Tornos and it was... well I'll be polite and just say weird.

My local guy has been key to being able to keep this gurl alive.
Like I said - Tornos doesn't even know what this thing is.
Although Hardinge makes and lists collets and bushings for it!
Well, only the guide bushing is special to it I guess.....


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Ox said:

.......Although Hardinge makes and lists collets and bushings for it!
Well, only the guide bushing is special to it I guess.....

Click to expand...

In the past when I've run across a need for hard to find collets or guide bushings, I've called Southwick and Meister.

Collets: Southwick & Meister, Inc.

Vancbiker said:

In the past when I've run across a need for hard to find collets or guide bushings, I've called Southwick and Meister.

Collets: Southwick & Meister, Inc.

Click to expand...

KebKollets.com is another supplier for oddball stuff.

While it's certainly no big deal to add a parallel switch to such a circuit I'd advise a few cautions.

Don't attempt to solder to the switch but trace the circuit and solder to the PCB.

Don't run long wires from the limit switch because of possibly introducing noise but instead use them to actuate a small relay. I would add a small capacitor across the relay coil as well as maybe a clamp-on ferrite where the leads enter the control housing.

Ox said:

No count-down counter.
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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Click to expand...

Can you use variables?

A simple #500 = #500+1 and WHILE #500LT60 loop would take care of that.

IDK if that one is able to or not.


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox