Help with profiling some odd shapes. - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by gustafson View Post
    DAmn if they are your parts, drill two tooling holes

    Look at the time difference, drill two holes 5 seconds, flip to second vise to turn the part to chips

    mill from thicker stock, 33 percent more stock cost, time to face the whole thing down, fixture time


    I will have a dozen of these made before you finish the fixture.
    I think he will need at least 3 holes. If he can get away with that, that is a good way to go.

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    He already said he doesn't want to add holes. What if they are undesirable in the finished part? You say no fixture, what are you going to bolt the part to?

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    What the easiest thing to do is if its .375 thick you can order 1/2" stock. Program to cut down you contour just passed the thickness you need for part by about 0.02" . Then cut some soft jaws to the U shape mostly portion of the jaws and just enough to support the leg coming out so no vibrations. Then all you have to do is face mill it to size.

    Most call this the Top Hat method. I have used this on so many part and works great.
    Here's one were i learn about taking to much off at once lol
    part.jpg

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  5. #24
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    OP1 out of 1/2" Stock. Op2 in a soft jaw or fixture plate with mittee bite style clamps that won't mar the part. Taking a 3/8" part out of 3/8" material will look like shit. You will have the mill surface on both sides, and the thickness will vary so much, your edge breaks will never be even.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidScott View Post
    He already said he doesn't want to add holes. What if they are undesirable in the finished part? You say no fixture, what are you going to bolt the part to?
    See, that's EXACTLY what gets me!
    The what-if part is perfectly acceptable. If you cannot have a hole, then you will not have a hole. Period, end of dicussion.
    BUT!
    More than often though if there is a hole, it makes not one bit of a difference!
    You get the RFQ for a plate job.
    You ask if there is an allowance of 2 ( or perhaps 3 ) holes strategically placed for easier fixturing and lower cost.
    Answer is absolutely cannot have hole.
    You quote part accordingly with higher bullshit factor.
    You get the job and make the part.
    You deliver part and get a proud invitation to see what it's for.
    And, when you see it installed, you ask why would a through hole be of an issue in a few places?
    Answer: What hole? Where would you want to put it? We don't care!

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    They are his own parts. He is designing and making them, it's up to the op if he wants a hole or not. The tumbler doesn't care if the part thickness varies a little, or a lot if it's Hydro, the edgebreaks will be the same.

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    It is odd that everyone is thinking top/bottom.

    I look at that part and I think outside/inside. Use .375 flat bar stock in Talons, deck the face, cut the U shape interior, apply chamfers (including a back chamfer on the interior bits). Op 2 would locate off the interior walls of the U shape area, and a fitted clamp would hold down the part so the outside profile would be machined.

    The only disadvantage here would be that one side would not have full face access for machining, but the Op1 would allow you to control thickness. If it is a big requirement that this part be faced all around, you could do a quick Op0 facing type situation to clean up the B side before Op1. If the part is going to be tumbled/blasted, you can skip that step.

  9. #28
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    That's a great idea! See post #19.
    Quote Originally Posted by gkoenig View Post
    It is odd that everyone is thinking top/bottom.

    I look at that part and I think outside/inside. Use .375 flat bar stock in Talons, deck the face, cut the U shape interior, apply chamfers (including a back chamfer on the interior bits). Op 2 would locate off the interior walls of the U shape area, and a fitted clamp would hold down the part so the outside profile would be machined.

    The only disadvantage here would be that one side would not have full face access for machining, but the Op1 would allow you to control thickness. If it is a big requirement that this part be faced all around, you could do a quick Op0 facing type situation to clean up the B side before Op1. If the part is going to be tumbled/blasted, you can skip that step.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidScott View Post
    That's a great idea! See post #19.
    Oh, I didn't get that far before I gave up on all the bad ideas... why the hell is this thread still going on when you solved it a full page ago?!?!

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  13. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidScott View Post
    He already said he doesn't want to add holes. What if they are undesirable in the finished part? You say no fixture, what are you going to bolt the part to?
    a plate with 2[or 3] drilled and tapped holes
    program is the same one to drill the holes in the first place, zero programing time, 20 seconds to fab

    I have never done the thicker material routine.

    On these parts it is 2 bucks a piece in additional material. [edit] not including that you might get away with narrower material since you need nothing to grab in the vise IOW no frame left after milling]

    maybe that matters maybe not.

    If you were planning on milling all sides, maybe that is the way to go

    if not it is a waste of time and material, and if I can make a part faster and cheaper than you, I am making it, not you


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