High spindle load % mazak fjv-250

Meskaroni · Oct 1, 2019

The machine is a mazak fjv 250 8hp

I am trying to drill 1.75" with a hss spade drill.. on my cheap little mill i run 200 rpm and 1.5" feed with no issues or chatter.

on the mazak i need to run atleast 250 rpm or the drill just stalls and my spindle load meter is passing 120% at .3 in/min

this is a used machine from 2000 but ive only had it for a few months, and i found i can force it into low gear with m38 but the results are the same.

anyone with some help is appreciated grately as ive got a few 100 holes to make and its taking me forever at this speed.

Hoss710 · Oct 1, 2019

have you tried a G83 and peck drill the holes ? that size drill and rpm I'd be closer to .12 inches per minute feed if it were me. but I'm a bit more conservative than others. also use Lowe gear for the torque.

Hoss710 · Oct 1, 2019

it would also help to know material you are machining on and how deep the hole is ?

Meskaroni · Oct 1, 2019

Material is plasma cut mild steel
1" thick through hole.

I just found it easier to pre drill 1 3/8 and then it's a little easier on the load but still nothing great.

I have a tight tolerance and the spade drills hold well but I have a little chatter through the end of the hole and I feel like the loads are way too high for how little I'm pushing

Philabuster · Oct 1, 2019

Meskaroni said:
Material is plasma cut mild steel
1" thick through hole.

You could run a 1/2" endmill and circular interpolate the holes a hell of a lot faster than trying to shove a spade drill in the material. Yes, spade drills will make a hole, but not nearly as fast as a 1/2" endmill running at 5,000 RPM and 100" IPM. Use the machine to your advantage.

Bobw · Oct 1, 2019

The FJV's are the high end bridge style machines, had one where I worked years ago.
A '95. It was 25hp, 12.5 constant (Less than the FADAL next to it). single speed
integral spindle, 12k...

It had NOTHING down low. NOTHING!!! A 1" twisty drill would stall in
mild steel at .004 a rev.

I agree with Philabuster.. You are only going through 1".. You can turn that
to chips in seconds with an endmill. Depending on material.

Milland · Oct 1, 2019

Get a annular-style core drill in cobalt for your machine, it'll go through 1" plate without any issues with the right S/F/lube, at much lower torque. McMaster-Carr (you can find cheaper prices), and Annular Cutters for Magnetic Base Drills - Gamut are places to look, and do your own search too.

If you're having issues in low gear I'd also check into the electrical side too, are you sure you're configured at the right voltage for the machine? Did you install it or did a qualified electrician do the hookup?

EmGo · Oct 1, 2019

They make machines different now. A KT 200 would be happy as heck blowing out that hole but newer machines like to run zippety-doo-dah fast taking light cuts.

So do what they want and you'll be happier. Rotabroach (per Milland) would work but they cost $$$. And they also need to run kind of slow, which might not make your mazak happy.

I'd just fly around with a 1/2" end mill. Helical interpolation and make sure the mill is center-cutting. I'd probably use a two flute, or maybe three, for that reason.

Meskaroni · Oct 2, 2019

Milland said:
Get a annular-style core drill in cobalt for your machine, it'll go through 1" plate without any issues with the right S/F/lube, at much lower torque. McMaster-Carr (you can find cheaper prices), and Annular Cutters for Magnetic Base Drills - Gamut are places to look, and do your own search too.

If you're having issues in low gear I'd also check into the electrical side too, are you sure you're configured at the right voltage for the machine? Did you install it or did a qualified electrician do the hookup?

this is what i need to look at today, we had an electical savvy mechanic install the machine but i need to look into that

for the guys saying end mill it, i did the last batch like that, i ran an endmill and left .03 and finished with the spades, the part going in is pressed in, so i cant pass +.001, which a 30$ spade insert does well, and end mills arent cheap, i found that the endmills needed to be replaced too often to justify the time savings, if i was in a rush id run them, i even bought a 500$ indexable end mill to try and it snapped on me (i dont like kennemetal overpriced crap, i should try mitsubishi)

thanks for the replys, anyone have an idea where to start to test electric setup?

memphisjed · Oct 2, 2019

Allied - Gen2 T-A Overview The holders are not cheap, not kenmetal price either. They can take more rpm and take less umph to push without pilot on larger holes. Not new carbide speeds, but enough to get your spindle spinning at roughly 350 and .007+ ipr

Meskaroni · Oct 2, 2019

memphisjed said:
Allied - Gen2 T-A Overview The holders are not cheap, not kenmetal price either. They can take more rpm and take less umph to push without pilot on larger holes. Not new carbide speeds, but enough to get your spindle spinning at roughly 350 and .007+ ipr

this is what im using now.

EmGo · Oct 2, 2019

You can't hold a thousandth with an end mill, and think a spade drill is more accurate ? We're at the beginning of the learning curve, I guess ?

Meskaroni · Oct 4, 2019

Yeah, the end mill is flexing and leaving a tapered hole, and the spade drill is like a reamer and leaves a perfect finish, i also regrind the spade drills after a few holes and they keep their size and finish

ondori · Oct 4, 2019

Meskaroni said:
Yeah, the end mill is flexing and leaving a tapered hole, and the spade drill is like a reamer and leaves a perfect finish, i also regrind the spade drills after a few holes and they keep their size and finish

Run a finishing pass at low radial doc at high rpm and half feed. Or if you do this enough, invest in a boring head.

I'm not just bullshitting you either. We mill tubesheets every day at work, thousands of 1" to 2.5" holes held within 0.001" in mild steel, stainless & nickle alloys.

I'm not sure what end mill you are using, but for mild steel a cheap 5/8" end mill should last hundreds of holes. I use YG1 V7 INOX end mills, they are meant for stainless, but last me 4x as long in mild steel.

I've always wanted to go the insert drill route, but our tubesheet plates have such a tight hole pattern that I have no way to support the plate underneath. It simply bends due to the drill pressure.

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