How do way lubricators get so gross inside???

I thought I'd do some "preventative" maintenance and clean out the old oil in one of my machine's lubricators before putting it into heavy service. It wasn't preventative at all! That thing was disgusting inside! There was 1.5" of rust colored muck in there. This thing is 20 years old and I can tell it's been opened up before. Nothing in the lubricator is rusted. It's nice now with all the muck cleaned out and new filters installed. This is a big machine. The lubricator is 10 feet or so from the enclosure. Far away and well protected from coolant, chips, etc.

What the hell causes way oil to get so nasty in a sealed metal box????

How often do you guys open up lubricators and clean them out?

When I worked for Doosan we sometimes referred to this as "Sumurai Scum" - and it's a product of the moisture that condenses inside the way tank, and the additives in the way oil coming out of solution over time. Notice the really bad smell? Most way oil has sulfur in it, among other things. Over time it will come out. I had a customer that had a way oil tank rust from the inside out like a '69 Impala, between the water condensation and everything else in there.

Another issue is that the Sumurai scum will clog the inlet screen on the oil pump starving the ways/screws/etc of oil. If you start hearing a loud "CLICK" every so often that's the way pump trying to inhale through a clogged inlet screen.

I recommended that once a year you drop the oil tank, drain it, wipe clean, and clean the inlet screen on the pump. Then re-install, and fill with fresh oil.

On the subject of oil, use only BRAND NAME oils, like Shell, Mobil, Castrol, etc. Stay away from un-named jugs of way oil, as you have no idea what it really is.

Leave a mostly full gallon jug of Vacra #2 in a temperature controlled space, my well pump house, for 10 years and you will understand, it will turn to jelly. No water involved, it was still crystal clear.

The lube tank on my Kitamura was 18 years old when I cleaned it out, the machine had been used constantly so no skank from sitting. More jelly and a bit of brown scum, the same brown scum that turns your lines brown. I got some synthetic way oil from Western around 2000 that flat cleaned out the brown scum from a 1984 lathe, after one lube tank all the lines looked new, and as fast as it went through way oil the lubricators didn't get plugged up with the Vactra scum it washed out. I really, really question how good Vactra is over the life of a machine.

I've always used Shell Tonna and never have a problem. Shell makes good stuff. It is expensive, but I certainly wouldn't mess with cheap way oil.

mmurray70 said:

I've always used Shell Tonna and never have a problem. Shell makes good stuff. It is expensive, but I certainly wouldn't mess with cheap way oil.

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I use Vactra 2 and Chevron 68 way oil. I never thought I had a problem either until I opened up the lubricator.

Before cleaning it would slowly come up to 5-6 PSI and stay there during a lube cycle. Now it pops right up to 15 PSI and you can hear the little motor bog down a bit.

I feel pretty bad. Didn't realize I was starving the machine for oil.

I've rebuilt a couple of machines where the way oil tanks have had a 'thick skin' on the bottom. I guess that some way oils had this problem. I don't know if it applies to newer formulations, because once I start using the machines the way oil gets used quickly enough to get flushed through...

Will synthetic oil really clean out the lines? Does anyone know if that’s a good maintenance procedure to insure the lines and meters don’t get clogged?

If so what type of oil will work?

Ianagos said:

Will synthetic oil really clean out the lines? Does anyone know if that’s a good maintenance procedure to insure the lines and meters don’t get clogged?

If so what type of oil will work?

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Im curious of similar. I'd like to try pumping kerosene or mineral spirits.

Such a nightmare to take the lube system apart on a bigger machine.

Mark Rand said:

I've rebuilt a couple of machines where the way oil tanks have had a 'thick skin' on the bottom. ........

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IIRC, that's paraffin in the oil separating out.

Garwood said:

Im curious of similar. I'd like to try pumping kerosene or mineral spirits.

Such a nightmare to take the lube system apart on a bigger machine.

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Yea I want to refurbish an older machine I got and I think I’ll just do the kerosene and pump it through. When I get around to doing that in who knows how long.

back in the early 90s I was told to change the metering valves every year on the hitachie seikes. on box way lathes was told every 1-2 years.I have no idea if thats true or not just what I was told. to be honest with the exception of the lathes I changed them every year, cause I had the tech due maintnce on our machines every year. then after about 5 years I never changed them if they were working.
again I have no clue what your really suppose to change them at as I hear different things from different techs.
I always keep an eye on them, twice a year I take covers off and check for ball screw oiling and the ways I cant see. if a line breaks you will know it as you will burn through oil fast. only had 3 go bad in 30 years.
I do clean out my tanks now once a year(usually Christmas time) had the fadal suction side filters gummed upped pretty good once and it wouldnt pump oil. cleaned it out disconnected all lines at metering valves and pumped Mineral spirits through them. blew them out replaces tank with oil and havent had issues.
the oil lines were not gummy due to the filters in the pump even though the tank looked like a mud pit.
one word of advice dont clean your filters BUY NEW ONES. those things are super fine and any tears could clog your system up.
if you do put kerosen/ mineral spirits in there DONT do it in a dirty tank. try to do it close to the oil manifolds as possible its only a few drops.

Not long ago, the pump on my 2000 model Fadal 4020 quit. I only noticed it when I went to top off the oil and it hadn't gone down any.

So for the first time in the machine's life, I pulled out the pump/tank assembly and took it apart. The failure was caused by the pump's piston getting stuck in the bore due to a worn seal. I put a rebuild kit into the pump (to the tune of $500, ouch).

As part of that process, I emptied the oil and cleaned out the tank and lines and the little brass filter. But everything was remarkably clean, I really didn't find anything at all.

The only oil I've ever used is Vactra 2. I store it in a place that stays warm all the time, simply because if I let that stuff get cold, it becomes really slow to pour it into the tank. That little screen filter in the tank's filler spout doesn't like to pass thick oil.

I had a similar experience with the grease lines on one of our VMC's after using the wrong grease for years, and we ended up having to totally re-plumb the lines in addition to cleaning out the fittings.

It just reinforces the thought that "maintenance free" is a total falicy. Having automatic pumps on machines is a big help for sure, but that doesn't mean you can ignore the stuff as long as the pot is filled.

One of the best things you can do annually is simply rolling back the way covers for an inspection. You'll find chips in disheartening places and tools you didn't know you lost, but you'll also get to see if the lubricant is getting where it needs to.

My Mitsui 6x18 surface grinder has little sight glasses for the front and back vertical ways. When I first got the machine, I thought that was a silly indulgence, but the front glass no longer shows any oil flow, so apparently not! Time to remove the way covers and replace some small plastic tubing.