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Info for aspiring machinists, from ignorant aspiring machinist.

twmcree

Aluminum
Joined
May 9, 2018
Location
Austin Texas
Nothing free in this world.. feel the need to contribute back to the forum somehow to pay for the information that it has provided me thus far... Even if the information is extremely trivial relative to many of the informing threads / thread contributions. Got it 10 cents on the dollar I guess, come to think of it.

Anyway... hopefully the following thread will be beneficial to those who are brand new to the wide field of cnc machining... such as myself, as of 10/2018... Learn from any mistakes that I made, or will make in the future :)

So here is the story:

After spending around a year researching vmc's for a future business venture, I decided that a box-way Fadal was the machine that would fit the bill...

* cheap parts
* common sense troubleshooting
* documentation
* plenty of supply.. Certainly not an orphan machine.
* mucho bang for buck.

*** A mistake I would have made had I not sought advice on this forum was purchasing a dead machine and retrofitting it via Mesa breakout boards and linuxcnc. You're not going to save any money going this route, keep an eye on Craigslist and on upcoming machinery auctions. There are deals to be had... and don't be intimidated by ancient looking consoles.. it is so simple it is stupid.

ie:
Recently a 2000 Fadal 4020HT w/4th axis popped up on Craigslist around 2 hours from my shop near Austin.. all for $7,500. Caught it 22hrs after it had been posted. Must have done something right - everything worked out. A little sooner than expected.. Had to take it on the fly... oh, and never seen a VMC in real life at this point - armed with YouTube and Practical Machinist.

Made pins for rigging counterweight, shoved tools in truck and hauled ass down to Houston for an hour to stumble my way through prepping machine for transport... I had to meet an important client back in Austin that afternoon, so the pressure was really on to get-er-done.

*** the pins to rig the counterweight for transport on this machine need to be 1" diameter in order to go through the hidden hole in rear of machine (for this machine)... oops. Bad information.. should have called fadalcnc or somebody to clearify prior to walking into such an unknown situation.

Had to figure a way around the pin issue, ended up just bolting up pin flanges so that they would hold my 1.5" diameter pins in place.

****** when blocking up head for transport make sure wooden block is under area behind spindle, NOT under spindle nut. Make sure that there is adequet pressure on wooden block so that it does not slip out during transit.. don't want to have counterweight chains break and head/spindle crash into the table.

Fortunately, machine made it home in one piece.

*** To unload, cut out (4) lengths of 3" x 3/16" square tubing to slide through rectangles in casting.

Renting an adequet forklift was an issue do to weather and a formula one race down the road. So she sat undercover on trailer for a couple of weeks..

Couldn't wait to get it off of trailer to fire er up, so I hooked up to a homemade RPC and followed the installation instructions in operators manual for electrical hookup.

*** Gotta make sure that you configure the transformer taps correctly for voltage.

**** Print and bind all manuals applicable to machine off of fadalcnc.com tech docs. Very useful documentation. One reason Fadal is perfect for this sort of scinerio.

Imediately learned the hard way about properly coldstarting a fadal.. There are no hardstops on axis.. only soft stops (software). If you do not properly cold Start, machine does not know where it is at any given time. You will wind up jogging an axis to crash zone. Or two :)

*** after crashing an axis, take off way covers and check your servo/ballscrew couplers. There needs to be a .005 spacing. Adjustment process is outlined in maintenance manual.

was looking for a 10k skytrack, but only thing available was 8.. as time went on the 8k started to look pretty good... as expected, skytrack didn't have the balls to pick it up single handedly.. improvised with a tractor with ~2.5k capacity on front end. Pretty sketchy there for a minute.

822b431ab13633aec1b6d1bb5e834bfb.jpg


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Got er off trailer, used skytrack forks to turn machine around by pushing casting. Once oriented, slid some professional machinery skates ((2)2' landscape timbers with cardboard on backside) under heavy end in order to lift and push into position against wall with skytrack.

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*** Moral of story so far, always double check sources of information & coldstart machine properly so that you do not get excited and crash an axis.

Plenty more coming soon - got to get back to work.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the the pictures and info. I am looking to buy a 4020 myself and now after seeing your pictures I now understand how the fork tubes are used. I read the online manuals but they don't have any pictures.
 
Thanks for the the pictures and info. I am looking to buy a 4020 myself and now after seeing your pictures I now understand how the fork tubes are used. I read the online manuals but they don't have any pictures.
You are welcome - glad that it is of some use thus far.

On the fork tubes, you may need a file or die grinder to remove any bumps from casting process in order to fit the 3" square tubing.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 
Great post twmcree, and nice photos. Congratulations on what looks like a great score!

Keep us posted as to your progress.

PM
 
Keep us posted as to your progress.

PM

Thank you. planning to keep this thread going for quite a while - plenty of hurdles to overcome.. & of course, many more that are currently incomprehensible.

Writing everything out on practical machinist will certainly be beneficial.

... So much to learn, so little time..

Wagner.



Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 
Well... done put the cart before the horse yet again and designed a few assemblies for a couple of existing clients, to be completed and installed mid december.. love the pressure - wouldn't have it any other way.

Admittedly, they are all very simple parts - only 2 axis machining required.. But designing a subplate & fixtures are going to be a blast!... Who here doesn't live for process optimization???

---

Some basic machine maintenance:

Locking drawbar removal is shown here: "Fadal spindle removal and installation"

[URLhttps://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DHkmdYh50dPk&ved=2ahUKEwjUu4TPzbjeAhVSJKwKHaDQA5kQjjgwAHoECAcQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3bRw0pauJH0Ry8EEMFd6Lv[/URL]

*** the removal tool would be simple to make. Just need to push down the indicated part:

c4e427ac036e2e14d797536f86260a2e.jpg


To remove the floater, read page 315 in fadal maintenance manual...

f0eb8d05350afe4c263f6f57bdfc07c4.jpg


When reinstalling drawbar, make sure that the bottom Belleville is facing up.

** More on drawbar callibration when I have a drawforce gauge.

---

Found that a bearing was trashed on the counterweight chain sprocket.

ec1ee3f5fc4cfcb17d0830771a69a027.jpg


Should have it reassembled mid next week. Hopefully no further damage was caused by having the head torqued for an extended period of time... we shall see.

Wagner.



Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 
Topic: Baby Steps.

* Here is a basic trial and error process that I utilized to apply the concepts of fixture offsets and tool lengths... how to tell machine where part is.

e1a814539efe7f33313c366d1412ea9f.jpg


- Indicator with magnetic base stuck to head.
- Two items placed arbitrarily on table.

Fiddle around with controller until get a handle on its basic navigation and layout... 88hs is really intuitive, it tells you everything that you need to know.. so far anyway.

e6e889be8442ece6e8f70d8334b279eb.jpg


A few hours of "oh, what happens if I try ____" ... "hell yeah" aught to ease the learning curve substantually - if you are a hands on kinda dude, I reckon... Really is rewarding when you unlock a "new" feature in controller or g code concepts... What was never memorozed is not likely to be forgotten.

Purchasing equiptment with whiskey dents aught to ease the learning process as well.

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Wagner.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 
Well... done put the cart before the horse yet again and designed a few assemblies for a couple of existing clients, to be completed and installed mid december.. love the pressure - wouldn't have it any other way.

Admittedly, they are all very simple parts - only 2 axis machining required.. But designing a subplate & fixtures are going to be a blast!... Who here doesn't live for process optimization???

---

Some basic machine maintenance:

Locking drawbar removal is shown here: "Fadal spindle removal and installation"

[URLhttps://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DHkmdYh50dPk&ved=2ahUKEwjUu4TPzbjeAhVSJKwKHaDQA5kQjjgwAHoECAcQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3bRw0pauJH0Ry8EEMFd6Lv[/URL]

*** the removal tool would be simple to make. Just need to push down the indicated part:

c4e427ac036e2e14d797536f86260a2e.jpg


To remove the floater, read page 315 in fadal maintenance manual...

f0eb8d05350afe4c263f6f57bdfc07c4.jpg


When reinstalling drawbar, make sure that the bottom Belleville is facing up.

** More on drawbar callibration when I have a drawforce gauge.

---

Found that a bearing was trashed on the counterweight chain sprocket.

ec1ee3f5fc4cfcb17d0830771a69a027.jpg


Should have it reassembled mid next week. Hopefully no further damage was caused by having the head torqued for an extended period of time... we shall see.

Wagner.



Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

The locking drawbar can be removed using a socket that has window cut out of it along with a cheap steering wheel puller from a auto store. You may need to buy longer bolts at a hardware store.

Chain and rollers can be purchased as a set from Fadalcnc.com or ITScnc for around $95.


Best tool setup program for the fadal
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/cnc-machining/fadal-toolsetting-system-doesnt-suck-304132/

Also pick up a Haimer3d or Tsschorn 3d for your tool 1 for using the setup program.
 
Thanks Duc - I have Aaron's thread saved. I need to get to a point where I can understand exactly what he has created prior to implementing it.

Oh yes, Haimer is definitely on the essential tools list.


* Btw, pretty awesome that you offered to send Aaron money for his program.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 
Thanks Duc - I have Aaron's thread saved. I need to get to a point where I can understand exactly what he has created prior to implementing it.

Oh yes, Haimer is definitely on the essential tools list.


* Btw, pretty awesome that you offered to send Aaron money for his program.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

I may need to buy a knive one day. Using the Fadals at work is annoying and frustrating since I have to set the tool height with each setup versus the 1 tool then running the macro program.

Buy a spare tip. Ask me how I know.
 
Title: strap, gib, and.. ultimately, head breakdown.

Felt some crap up under the table, so I took off a strap to take a look.

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Gibs were also caked with it... holes, oil grooves,.. everything.

Turcite had come unglued from every gib on the machine.

f8f4567e50c92d7419f018217407fdfd.jpg


Got worried about the condition of the head, so...

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Fortunately, the turcite on the head is secure - just some flakes of metal that were easily removed with a needle. Hope the suspense didn't kill you.

*** motor lifting strategy. [Moral of the story]

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Turned out to be a very secure method of lifting an awkward object.

-----

Moving forward:

Thanks to the numerous mentor's advice and guidance through this forum, repairing the gibs should be no biggie. I will relay the info to this thread as I work my way through the process next week... Can't wait to take my first real steps into "machine reconditioning and scraping"

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To those who don't know we have been helping twcree on the machine rebuilding forum on how to glue his Turcite back on. I don't like the idea of reusing the old Turcite, But his budget has a limit.

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/...g-scraping-and-inspection/gib-turcite-356985/

I never saw the Z access photo before. I am not sure I told you this but before you assemble the head, take a plastic headed screw driver and holding the shaft of the screw driver tap on that Turcite. Listen to the sound as you tap. Loose Turcite or if the bond under it has failed you will here a slapping sound. If it is tight under there you will hear a solid thud noise. I would highly recommend replacing the Turcite as long as you have it apart.
 
Yes sir, they certainly have!

There is a wealth of knowledge contained within that entire forum.. definitely worth tapping into.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 
Alright,

Its been a little too long... been busting ass on some other jobs this past month. Time sure flies, don't it.

Had something big happen yesterday that moved machine repair to the top of the list. Well... relatively big... at least I can now devote 90% effort to it with the feeling of efficently moving forward. Finally.

Planning to order required supplies this weekend to get the head knocked out and machine calibrated.

Everything aught to come together, just in time.

-------

Anyway, sorry for superficial self-absorbedish social-mediaesk post, I just had to tell somebody the news...

Will have better, more informative posts going up in near future.

Y'all have fun makin them chips, designing them fixtures, implementing y'alls ingenuity.. Will be joinin the party soon.
Wagner.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 
Lets get down to business..

Cleaned up the manifolds and oil meters with an ultrasonic cleaner.

1ef40b2221341b1c4ab20409dcff239f.jpg


*meters will need to be broken all the way down to remove all of the internal grime action. Probably evident, wouldn't recommend putting the tiny rubber pieces in solvent.

013378202c597192a370ee03210fb0be.jpg


** useful tip for ultrasonic cleaners: The energy that induces cavitation will transfer through the walls of some containers pretty efficently (it seems).. This allows you to process parts in batches, as well as utilize costier solvents such as xylene.

0734a975401be1f4c6a15ecf4b1bb8b3.jpg


Picked up some o-rings to rebuild the hi/lo actuator and drawbar pusher assemblies. Screw paying for a "hi/lo field repair kit". A few bucks vs 300 or whatever ridiculous number they go for.

***that there funny looking o-ring you'll find on the drawbar pusher is called a quad-ring.

-----

0734a975401be1f4c6a15ecf4b1bb8b3.jpg


Pulled the table and saddle out of the machine. Had to know what was going on down there.. especially due to the fact that she was acquired with a couple of broken way-wipes.

** when you pull a saddle, be aware that there will be negative pressure (suction) between the contact surfaces.

1b9dc1e704deb16980b67d5d726756e4.jpg


***These nylon straps had a sufficent elastic coeficent to pop the saddle out and balance the load at a greater elevation than the box-ways.. a chain would probably have given em a pretty good love tap with the saddle, by the time the forces were balanced (tenth of a sec?)... That was luck btw.


Oh the suspense...


Saddle With way wipes:

1288bb4761d669f5a83ab9051fc68a0e.jpg


Saddle Without:

9237f928918979a3e7199180332c7ba6.jpg


***99.009 of 100 machinist prefer their machines equipt with way-wipes & their turcite adhered.


------

moving forward:

Replace all rulon on machine apparently... table turcite is slightly scored and does have some glue peeling at the ends- just going to replace turcite on it as well and sleep easy the next 10 yrs.. or is it spite?.. who knows. That'll be 3 for 3 axes... Fadal Triple-Crown?

Replace thrust bearings while everything is disassembled.

*** check out this action to get your bearings (pun). For the ultimate high, spend a bit of time contemplating the forces involved per application - then read :)

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...Vaw1sw1vmtEIBOyO50IzfkOHs&cshid=1545348966829

-------

Things are moving along... It's going to be soon.

Learning a plenty, at least.

------

Wagner.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 
Long time no see... been hanging on the scraper side of PM lately.

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She ended up getting a new rulon treatment all the way around.

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New spindle: ~3.5k
New Rulon: ~700
Test arbor: ~600
Tenths indicator: ~170
Miscellaneous parts: ~1k

Knowledge ascertained fumbling my way through the rebuild: priceless.

------

Now that she is slapped back together (minus toolchanger, waiting on new retention rings) it is time to learn how to actually machine...

Starting er off nice and easy tomorrow with a foam block, a crappy endmill, a crappy drill, & a crappy tap. Very Exciting! Shouldn't be able to tear up too much, theoretically.
 
Hell yeah. What a day.

Got tool changer setup with new retention rings. The old ones were either broken off, or stretched. So 11 a pop was pretty easy to justify compared to dropping tools or any misalignment during a toolchange.

***tool changer setup and alignment is outlined in machinery manual. Pg. 120

***Also had to adjust the genevea turrent parameter (setp) in order to make sure that the motor was oriented correctly.

abce27b21de6d98e25160ba1bd190768.jpg


After yesterday of dickin around with the serial port, plan c finally came through this morning. Now have access to machine via laptop for file transfer, that is awesome.

***the Ethernet to Serial converter is going to be reachable through the lan in order to transmit files to the machine wirelessly.

***ended up rolling with the 60 day trial of pronc in order to buy enough time to see what else is out there.

***btw. I do believe Windows invokes the greatest amount of in shop profanity, by far... if only fusion would run on Linux, wouldn't the world be such a productive place. Haha.
abd6b9dde7a11c36db88576c5cc86a46.jpg


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And the dry run for the night:

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What a deal man. What a feeling to see it finally run by itself, with the knowledge that it is setup to spec. gonna be cuttin foam tomorrow morning.

some 3d toolpath action is in the works.
 








 
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