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Introduction and Electrical Woes

Diezul

Plastic
Joined
Aug 11, 2019
I'm sure many of you have been in my situation at one time or another, that's why I came here for comfort (or get blasted).

Introduction Background: I'm trying to setup a hobby/prototyping workspace in my garage in the Southern California area. I know I know, you've all heard that before and take it as code word for 'that's cute, little guy wants to run machine shop in his tiny garage', but I legitimately plan to use it as such and have no qualms with renting a proper workshop later should the need arise. I've gone through the numerous threads of people wanting to do similar, so I'm familiar with the do's and don'ts advice given by this community, which I immensely appreciate. I was an Engineer for ~10 years in semiconductor industry, but had an early 30's crisis where I would find myself researching how to become a Firefighter during work (in my free time of course). I wanted something different. I realized I wanted to design/make things and genuinely love learning and trying to figure out where this rabbit hole leads to. I started off with 3D printing and wanted to make simple injection molds for camera/bike accessories etc. Now I have a Fadal 2016L (not operational yet) in my 2-car garage. I've been trying to get up to speed about the art of CNC machining through online resources. Going to shady auctions and buying too much crap, I should have all the essentials to get me started... yet I've never operated a CNC machine before. The hurdle preventing me from starting production, I mean prototyping - electrical issues.

Electrical Hurdle: I had posted on a different DIY forum (Plans For Abnormal Garage Electrical Work With Diagram - Electrical - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum) to get some input on my electrical plan (with diagram). I was basically told to get a qualified electrician to do everything, which I was planning to do anyways, but was hoping to get some feedback in terms of layout/components so that I may have a better understanding of the work to be performed. I have already purchased most of the main components, except for the wiring/conduit which I will leave to the Electrician. I've had 2 Electricians come by so far to scope out the work to be done. Electrician 1 (E-1) is a friend of a friend that works for a company that does some specialized Commercial Electrical work, but just got his contractors license and wants to dabble in that. E-1 (bundled with a co-worker) said they could perform this work for an hourly rate. Estimates ~2 days, warns of possibly 3. Electrician 2 (E-2) is a semi-popular fellow on Yelp. E-2 caught my attention due to vast experience with heavy machinery and residential electrical work. Spent about an hour with E-2 and estimate of project comes in at ~30K (given I already have main components) and take 5 or more days. Furthermore, E-2 suggests what I want to have done is impossible and I would burn my house down without upgrading to a 400A service first (already inquired with Electric Provider SCE; wants 25K-30K), so E-2 would only do a 125A subpanel for the garage. Hopefully you can get a sense of the dilemma and predicament I'm in. It seems like E-1 and E-2 are at the opposite ends of the spectrum. E-1 views it as a doable and not too difficult job for reasonable cost I believe (including replacing the Main Service Panel with another model to allow for a 200A branch breaker). E-2 sees it as impossible the way I have it planned out, as I will burn down my house and have neighbors/city officials at my doorsteps (he keeps re-iterating this). Even with E-2 only willing to do a lesser version of what I had envisioned, it is still unfeasible cost-wise for me.

Electrical Hurdle (continued): Just to give you some examples how E-1 and E-2 differ in approach significantly:
Example 1 - I call out that my MSP only allows max branch breaker size of 100A per spec. Therefore I would need to replace it with a newer similar model that allows for 200A max branch breaker. E-1 doubted it at first (maybe assuming that it was standard to allow breaker up to size of MSP), but later agrees and embraces that the MSP would need to be replaced. E-2 on the other hand will use existing MSP and put 125A breaker on it, even though I keep stating that spec says max 100A. E-2 reiterates to trust because E-2 is a Master Electrician.
Example 2 - I have some attic space between where my MSP is located in the backyard and the attached garage out front. E-1 says possibility of wire run through the attic (I suggested SER Aluminum 250-250-250 3/0 ground rated for 230A) avoiding need for conduit for majority of run because likely not exposed to physical damage. E-2 says it must be run with conduit outside along wall and conductors must be Copper because Aluminum basically wouldn't be durable enough for my load.
Example 3 - E-1 basically agrees with everything I propose and is on board, which makes me like E-1 but wary because of scary E-2. E-2 basically disagrees with everything I purpose and knowledge about specific spec such as the Phase Converter being able to provide max ~64A steady state 3 Phase load with ~110A Single Phase input (Phase Perfect PT355D). E-2 says that would be magic and math doesn't lie, stating max ~40A 3 Phase output given ~120A single phase input. I believe E-2's math to be misguided by using 3 as the multiplier, and not sqrt(3).

In Closing: From your experiences, is E-1 downplaying the amount of work to be done and/or is E-2 overestimating the feasibility/complexity? I would like to give benefit of doubt to E-2 being significantly more experienced in this type of work, which is why it makes me feel uneasy that E-1 can do it without much hesitation for a fraction of the cost. Hopefully I can get some community members experienced with this type of situation to weigh in, designated as E-4, E-5, E-6, ..., E-N. I really appreciate any feedback and let me know if you need any additional information. And just to throw it out there, while I'm still trying to figure this all out, if anyone has a shop in the Orange County region of Southern California that is needing an extra hand and brain, I would be more than honored to help out for free. I would love to learn while providing productive results.
 
Whats the full load current on the Fadal electrical spec plate? Bet you never pull anywhere near the FLA on the plate- put in a 80 or 100 amp branch circuit into your garage and get on with it. Your not running a room full of machines pulling their max current. Just sayin. Lots of home shops with machines in the garage and many of them are running it with power coming from a 50 amp clothes dryer outlet.
 
Your "E2" guy is out in left field. "E1" is closer to the mark.

With the amount of power you say you want to put in your garage you must be planning on running several machines at once. The 2016 won't be anywhere near needing 63A 3Ph. Also you should check into running it on single phase. Many Fadals were able to be set up for single phase. Not sure if a 2016 was among them. It came out long after I stopped working on Fadals.

I'm running my home shop off a 100A breaker in a main panel of the home (largest that will fit that panel) to a 125A sub-panel in the shop. I've got a manual lathe, manual mill, Mori Seiki CNC mill, bandsaw, 190A MIG welder, 250A TIG welder, 5HP compressor, lights and misc. All that runs fine on the 100A supply. While I usually am the only one working in the shop, I can have the CNC and bandsaw running and weld at the same time with no power issues.
 
Other than Al wire and conduit (conduit is cheap squirrel/coon trip-pulled wires insurance) E1 seems to grasp needs and situation better.
 
E-2 basically disagrees with everything I purpose and knowledge about specific spec such as the Phase Converter being able to provide max ~64A steady state 3 Phase load with ~110A Single Phase input (Phase Perfect PT355D). E-2 says that would be magic and math doesn't lie, stating max ~40A 3 Phase output given ~120A single phase input. I believe E-2's math to be misguided by using 3 as the multiplier, and not sqrt(3).

I have that exact Phase Perfect unit running off a 100A single phase breaker in my garage. Wired with #2 copper THHN.

100A breaker -> 100A disconnect -> PT-355 -> 125A 3-phase subpanel

I can run two 30A 3-phase machines with no issues, e.g. Brother CNC + 10hp air compressor, with power to spare. Machines that ran fine for years off the same breakers at 208v are now running on 240v, pulling even less current.
 
Your "E2" guy is out in left field. "E1" is closer to the mark.

With the amount of power you say you want to put in your garage you must be planning on running several machines at once. The 2016 won't be anywhere near needing 63A 3Ph. Also you should check into running it on single phase. Many Fadals were able to be set up for single phase. Not sure if a 2016 was among them. It came out long after I stopped working on Fadals.

I'm running my home shop off a 100A breaker in a main panel of the home (largest that will fit that panel) to a 125A sub-panel in the shop. I've got a manual lathe, manual mill, Mori Seiki CNC mill, bandsaw, 190A MIG welder, 250A TIG welder, 5HP compressor, lights and misc. All that runs fine on the 100A supply. While I usually am the only one working in the shop, I can have the CNC and bandsaw running and weld at the same time with no power issues.

I totally agree with this. I only have a 100 amp sub in my shop. Most machines will never pull anywhere near the FLA and even if they do a 100 amp breaker will NOT trip at 130 amps momentarily. If breakers tripped the second they went over their amperage rating the inrush of just about every motor would trip them. Also if your wiring is designed and installed properly then you will trip breakers long before you ever have any kind of fire....that is the point of circuit breakers, fuses and current limiting devises.....Electrician 2 is either fearmongering, dishonest or misinformed.

I have a plasma on a 70 amp breaker and as well as a 7.5HP compressor on a 50 amp breaker (in a 100 amp sub)and I do not have any issues. Same compressor comes on when using my 10HP machining center and there are no issues there either. All my wiring is oversized so I don't get as much voltage drop on inrush, which helps to keep the amperage down, I also have 242 volts since I'm fairly close to a sub station.

Odds are if I want to run more machines than that at once they will not be working hard (drawing much current) and if I'm pushing hard hogging out material I'm going to be there babysitting the machine and therefor can't operate much of anything else.

Just my worthless opinion :sulk:
 
I must of read something wrong. I thought it said you got an estimate for $30k for wiring a garage shop.

One word of caution, I am guessing you will be using a phase converter. Make sure your electrician is familiar with them. More than one machine has been fried by hooking a wild leg into a control circuit. Also don't even think of getting the job permitted. Not sure where you are at but most locations in Cali do not allow machine shops in residential areas.
 
I must of read something wrong. I thought it said you got an estimate for $30k for wiring a garage shop.

One word of caution, I am guessing you will be using a phase converter. Make sure your electrician is familiar with them. More than one machine has been fried by hooking a wild leg into a control circuit. Also don't even think of getting the job permitted. Not sure where you are at but most locations in Cali do not allow machine shops in residential areas.

The same is true even if not using a phase converter if you have center tap (grounded) Delta. B phase is "supposed" to be the wild leg (208 to ground) but most times I've see it C was wild. Take nothing for granted and check everything with a multimeter.

Every machine I have only references phase to phase and not ground. The machines make their own neutrals with buck transformers. In these cases it doesn't matter what phase goes where other than your phase sequence for motor rotation.

For $30K you could learn a lot about electricity :smoking:
 
There is NOTHING wrong with aluminum except the idiots installing it! I have done lots of aluminum cable feeds for machines of all kinds for small manufacturers with never a failure. Simple rules, be careful stripping it, nicks can cause it to break. Wire brush with stainless wire brush, aluminum forms a non-conductive oxide that must be removed. Make sure connectors at both ends are rated for aluminum. Apply Penetrox antioxidant to the bare wire, this virtually guarantees no problems. Tighten the connectors snugly, then do it again a day or more later, aluminum creeps initially. Done.

No residential panel will take a breaker over 100 amps. Size wire for full load and voltage drop. The worse that can happen is you overdo it and the breaker trips. I’ll bet you won’t.

Go with E1 because E2 is the type of crook I truly despised when I was an electrical contractor. Don’t give E1 any money up front and get an itemized invoice to pay. If he wants his own business he needs to learn it and earn it.

I had 21 employees, got bored and turned it over to my younger brother when I got bored. Stupid, don’t miss the business at all, but I miss my sailboat and Wednesday afternoon sails that came along with success.
 
Aluminum wire is ok if it is installed and maintained properly. Trouble is very few people, and this includes electricians, are aware of the proper way to handle it. The consequences can be loose electrical joints, heating, intermittent connection, fires, all the good stuff. What Garyhlucas lists are dead on. Every one of the steps. I would add that once a years all connections be re-tightened.

Tom
 
Tale a photo of the machine data plate and visit your building department as you will need a permit.

Take both quotes as well as photos of your load center and meter.

The inspector can give you details of what will be needed to meet code and run your machine.

He can give you guidance on what and how to ask for work as well as providing detailed drawings.

YOU PULL PERMIT!

This forces provider to supply detailed drawings and removes the labor charges related to pulling the permit.

Insurance and license are a show stopper as a mistake can ruin your machine or worse.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
I'll stick with copper.

In your case - I'm with the masses that I would just take that 100A breaker and scurry on off to the garage.

You only need a 400A panel if you would be drawing more than 200 total.

You may draw over 200 total, and you may blow the main breaker, but that doesn't make it unsafe.
(Provided the main breaker is in good shape. Might be worth updating to new breaker just for Schitt's and giggles as they can git .... complacent.)

Also - you likely would never use near the juice that you think that you would.



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Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
There are other issues here. If he asks permission he will almost definitely get shot down. Second is you may have a 200 amp rated panel but in a residential area it is almost guaranteed the power company transformer will feed multiple homes be hugely underrated as that is common. When you blow it up then they may put a larger one in.
 
I would lose the card to E2 and get another couple estimates. I worked as a trouble shooter and Lineman for a couple utility companies for 22 years I have followed electricians around some are not worth a darn some are really good.

Some really helpful info you start with what your load demand is and select wire size with voltage drop in mind (length of wire run long run bigger wire to help voltage drop there are charts for this make sure to use a chart for wire in conduit or for open wire this has to do with cooling of the conductors for conduit size don't fill the conduit more than 40% you need air space for cooling) Next you size the breaker to protect the wire the wire has to be big enough for the breaker size otherwise the wires burns and the breaker does not trip. The wire can be bigger for voltage drop say wire rated for 100 amps with a 60 amp breaker but not the opposite. Nothing wrong with properly installed aluminum wire that is all the utility uses for services now days.

Do not put in a breaker that is larger than the panel specifies for a branch circuit. Sometimes the panel will need to be changed due to lack of breaker space or branch circuit limit.

In my years in the field what I found was anyone with a volt meter called themselves an electrician using a licensed electrician help but even then some are not so good so talk to several and get more than one or 2 opinions.
 
For God's sake, you are an engineer. Electrical work is stupid simple and the data is readably available. I run 5 cnc machines, a compressor, a TIG, a MIG and a badass air conditioner off of a 100 AMP breaker. I've never blown the main fuse one time. You would need to have all of the machines at locked rotor conditions simultaneously to do so. Run as big of copper wire as you can afford to all of the machines. I run mine in flexible conduit so I can move shit around. I figure it will cost you about $1000 and an 18 pack to wire the entire shop over a weekend.

Besides if you really screw up, you'll be able to follow your dream (briefly) of being a fire fighter.
 
Well, first of all I have to say that I do not really think that you will be able to use your garage as a proper working space in the future, however it is really great that you are being that enthusiastic. Now, your questions, I am not an electrician however, out of my own experience I have to tell you that the E-1 is not downplaying the amount of work to be done, not at all, while the E-2 is actually overestimating the feasibility. If I were you, I would actually call for the services of a proper electrician, and see what they can do and what is better from their point of view. If you still haven't decided, I can recommend you the best electricians services online, those guys are amazing.

Spammer.........
 
A haas VF2ss, which states a FLA spec of 80amps on the data-plate, will run just fine for many years on 30amp slow-blow fuses.
I know this to be fact because I have multiples doing exactly that. With quite frequent 100% stints on the spindle load meter mind you.
As others have suggested, you probably don't need nearly as much power as you think.
 
It only helps them with you quoting them.


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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Ya...usually I edit the linky out (or make it more funny)

But seems how no one (other than you) are doing anything about them, who cares ?
 








 
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