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ISCAR drill
- Thread starter Blobis
- Start date
- Replies 8
- Views 2,391
AARONT
Stainless
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2013
- Location
- Madison, WI
depends on the insert you're running.
Use Iscar's website for suggested feeds and speeds. Start at the low end and work your way up. Object reference not set to an instance of an object.
Use Iscar's website for suggested feeds and speeds. Start at the low end and work your way up. Object reference not set to an instance of an object.
Nerdlinger
Stainless
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2013
- Location
- Chicago, IL
It looks like 700-1000SFM @ .002-.004IPR per the catalog on my desk.
How deep are you drilling? What grade of inserts do you have? What pressure is the thru coolant?
I have the exact same drills in various sizes and I drill into stainless every single day. My closest match to yours is my 0.703 and I can say that the 1500rpm limit of your lathe is already too low to run a drill that small.
My most efficient setup is the DR1062, it runs at 1926rpm/6ipm or 535sfm/0.0031ipt into 304/316/2205/2507 stainless. I never change the feed/speed on it. I can get one insert edge to last about 250 linear inches. In fact we just finished an 90 part run with 1.625" deep into SS316, still on its first edge.
If you look at the ISCAR recommended feeds/speeds you will notice that I am right at the starting point of their recommendations for stainless. So even for the 0.703 I run identical 530sfm and 0.002ipt.
I have found that the DR0703 tends to wear out much faster, which is to be expected since it uses smaller inserts. The DR0903 performs identical to the DR1062.
The grade I use is IC908. I use the same grade in both inserts.
400 series stainless is definitely not the same as 300 series, however Iscar recommends identical feed/speed, and I don't doubt them. They are the only company whose posted feeds/speeds I trust.
I think with a little bit of experimenting you might be able to find a sweet spot. One thing I should note is that you need to be VERY careful. These inserts will crack really easily. For example, I've cracked an insert and got my drill stuck when I ran at ~1300 rpm/3ipm because I forgot the feed/speed override on. It barely made it 1" before the spindle load shot up from my usual 47% to 70% and by the time I hit reset the damage was done.
Secondly, you need high pressure coolant, I run 145psi. Again, one time my coolant nozzle were clogged and I got chip binding.
That brings me to the chips, if you find the sweet spot, the chips will come out as one nice curly string. Contrary to popular belief, chip breaking when drilling into stainless is not always wanted. Small chips that breakoff can get trapped between the flute edge and the bore, which will jam up very quickly. A nice continuous chip ensures that the string exits via the flute and falls down. If that long stringy chip gets caught else where outside the hole, that's a good problem to have.
If your drill has been crashed and has worn flutes, then I wouldn't risk it. Those flute edges must be as close to the bore as possible. This is how U-Drills prevent chips from binding.
No peck drilling, at least not with IC908 inserts, which are hard and crack rather than wear out. Also each time you peck you load/unload the tool. If you watch careful you will notice a U Drill deflects quite a bit. If you do peck, you need to full retract or dwell for a bit to ensure that the chips do exit. Pecking only forces chip breaking, it does not guarantee chip exiting!
So with all of that, I hope this helps guide you in finding the right feed for your speed.
I have the exact same drills in various sizes and I drill into stainless every single day. My closest match to yours is my 0.703 and I can say that the 1500rpm limit of your lathe is already too low to run a drill that small.
My most efficient setup is the DR1062, it runs at 1926rpm/6ipm or 535sfm/0.0031ipt into 304/316/2205/2507 stainless. I never change the feed/speed on it. I can get one insert edge to last about 250 linear inches. In fact we just finished an 90 part run with 1.625" deep into SS316, still on its first edge.
If you look at the ISCAR recommended feeds/speeds you will notice that I am right at the starting point of their recommendations for stainless. So even for the 0.703 I run identical 530sfm and 0.002ipt.
I have found that the DR0703 tends to wear out much faster, which is to be expected since it uses smaller inserts. The DR0903 performs identical to the DR1062.
The grade I use is IC908. I use the same grade in both inserts.
400 series stainless is definitely not the same as 300 series, however Iscar recommends identical feed/speed, and I don't doubt them. They are the only company whose posted feeds/speeds I trust.
I think with a little bit of experimenting you might be able to find a sweet spot. One thing I should note is that you need to be VERY careful. These inserts will crack really easily. For example, I've cracked an insert and got my drill stuck when I ran at ~1300 rpm/3ipm because I forgot the feed/speed override on. It barely made it 1" before the spindle load shot up from my usual 47% to 70% and by the time I hit reset the damage was done.
Secondly, you need high pressure coolant, I run 145psi. Again, one time my coolant nozzle were clogged and I got chip binding.
That brings me to the chips, if you find the sweet spot, the chips will come out as one nice curly string. Contrary to popular belief, chip breaking when drilling into stainless is not always wanted. Small chips that breakoff can get trapped between the flute edge and the bore, which will jam up very quickly. A nice continuous chip ensures that the string exits via the flute and falls down. If that long stringy chip gets caught else where outside the hole, that's a good problem to have.
If your drill has been crashed and has worn flutes, then I wouldn't risk it. Those flute edges must be as close to the bore as possible. This is how U-Drills prevent chips from binding.
No peck drilling, at least not with IC908 inserts, which are hard and crack rather than wear out. Also each time you peck you load/unload the tool. If you watch careful you will notice a U Drill deflects quite a bit. If you do peck, you need to full retract or dwell for a bit to ensure that the chips do exit. Pecking only forces chip breaking, it does not guarantee chip exiting!
So with all of that, I hope this helps guide you in finding the right feed for your speed.
fmari --MariTool-
Titanium
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2005
- Location
- Illinois
700-1000 sfpm ? really? Im 403 stainless I would love to see a video of that....
It'll run at that SFM...just not for very long. Kind of Iscar's MO, in my opinion.
CAMasochism
Stainless
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2019
- Location
- DFW, Texas
Yup. I learned long ago to run their SumoDrills at the low end of their recommendation.
Thank you Sir.
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