Level for Modern CNC machines

Hey all,

Have a new st20-y on the way and currently have two haas mills. Shame on me, but I do not know a level capable of leveling one of these machines. It's something I'd like to get ordered and to have on hand to check/re-level when we inevitably move the machines in a year or so to a new pad out back.

Is this level a good level to have for that task? If not, what do I need to look for/what would you recommend? Links appreciated, thanks!

That's a nice tool but likely overkill. I've been using a cheap $100 import level for years with no issues. Unless a turning center has a ton of Z travel they tend to be pretty stiff and not be prone to much if any twist unlike an engine lathe.

sirAIG said:

Hey all,

Have a new st20-y on the way and currently have two haas mills. Shame on me, but I do not know a level capable of leveling one of these machines. It's something I'd like to get ordered and to have on hand to check/re-level when we inevitably move the machines in a year or so to a new pad out back.

Is this level a good level to have for that task? If not, what do I need to look for/what would you recommend? Links appreciated, thanks!

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Right level. Y axis lathes are prone to more dip on one side or the other.

Nice level but used on its own it will drive you bonkers trying to keep the bubble visible.

My go to level is a British WW2 gun layers clinometer which has a wide spaced 30 seconds per division vial arranged to be adjustable over 0 to + 10° of tilt via a calibrated screw and scale. Scale calibrated in degrees, screw knob in minutes. Its about 6 inches long so turning end for end its no great problem to get within 10 seconds of dead level.

It always surprises me that this sort of thing has never been sold commercially. So easy to get pretty darn close to dead nuts level its almost not true.

Everyone curses master precision and similar high sensitivity levels but no one seems to want to do anything about it.

Clive

While nice a 40 year old carpenter's level works just fine.
On a cnc mill or most machine tools it is loading to each foot that counts much more than level to the world.
You jack a corner here or there to twist the frame and make the thing run square and true.
If this square is aligned to the center of the planet does not matter so much.
Think about a machine tool on a boat. Does the accuracy go down if the bow or stern loaded differently?
Bob

It doesn't matter much if a machine is perfectly level. You need a master precision level to get a machine flat.

Level to the ground is simply a convenient reference. You get the machine level and then move the part of the machine the level is sitting on. If the level changes it means your machine is twisted. To start with, this is a matter of cross weight. Most of the time, on a smaller machine, if you get your weights even you'll be pretty close but you should still measure twist with a high precision level by sitting it on the table and moving it across the machine's travel. You can also sweep your table with an indicator to see if your Z axis column is leaning one way or another.

Some of the old 15,000 pound Mori with 8 points can be a little tricky to get straight and square. A high precision level is used to make these measurements. But being level is not the goal, and sometimes you may be a little bit out of perfectly level once you get the machine dialed in flat and square because squaring the column is the final step which can involve adding weight to the rear pads which can tweak the machine forward a hair. With experience you start with the back a little low knowing you're going to bring it up a little squaring the column forward, but if you have everything flat and square it really doesn't matter much.

An old engine lathe is a noodle. You need a level to get it straight. Again, it doesn't matter if it's level. The level is used to get it straight by using the earth as a reference while you move the machine through its travel looking for bow and twist.

Your dealer should be setting it up for you, it is part of the price you paid

kustomizer said:

Your dealer should be setting it up for you, it is part of the price you paid

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BINGO!!

Don't know about Haas, but some lathes come with a leveling plate that mounts in a turret holder that they use to level the machine with.

Buy the guy a box of donuts and hang around while he is leveling and setting it up. There's more to it than just getting it level as NTM stated in his reply!

Yes setup is normally included but what about when you want to rearrange the furniture to be more efficient with product mix?
Bob

CarbideBob said:

Yes setup is normally included but what about when you want to rearrange the furniture to be more efficient with product mix?
Bob

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I thought I was the only one moving them around when the work flow changes

I think a good level is a necessity if you own machines. Even with a new machine I prefer to go over things. Nice used starrett 199’s are not terribly expensive on ebay. And a traditional level is always sort-of self check able.

When they came to Commission my new machines they used a cheap little Starret level. As mentioned its move important to get machine flat then level...aside from coolant draining. But to get flat you need a reference and that is being level.

When I picked up a couple used machines I used my Master Level...a couple steps up from the one you show. Yup, alot more work trying to get that dead on...but after years of leveling manual bed lathes at 10'- 15' it wasn't too tough doing lil CNC's. What your showing may be overkill..but at least you know it right.