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Looking for Dynapath Delta 10/20 power supply schematic
- Thread starter Jason312
- Start date
- Replies 14
- Views 2,342
sam_stlouis
Cast Iron
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2010
- Location
- missouri, USA
What info are you looking for, board level schematics. I might have it but would take me a few days to look. There is an aftermarket unit that works you can get off eBay for about 150 of your interested in that I can find the part number
yes, board level schematic to help the person repair mine.
I have purchased 2 Mean Well QP-320F power supplies but neither of them made my WDT fault go away.
I tested both of them while connected to my control and had 10 to 54 Vac ripple on V1, V2 and V3 which I assume is why they would not work.
I have purchased 2 Mean Well QP-320F power supplies but neither of them made my WDT fault go away.
I tested both of them while connected to my control and had 10 to 54 Vac ripple on V1, V2 and V3 which I assume is why they would not work.
ewlsey
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2009
- Location
- Peoria, IL
You will need less than 30mV ripple to make the control happy.
The power supply is pretty simple. The ones I have worked on are half bridge configuration.
Normally I replace the electrolytic caps, bleed down resistors, and check the rectifier diodes. If those things are good, it will likely work fine. I even fixed one that was hooked up backward and blew some ceramic caps.
I have the WDT alarm which won't let me reset the E-Stop.
I checked the caps with an ESR meter and replaced the ones that tested bad which was all except the 2 largest ones. I also replaced 4 resistors that tested bad. I still get AC ripple. I can't remember exactly how much but much but it measured in V not mV.
Maybe I should replace the 2 largest caps and see what that gets me.
I checked the caps with an ESR meter and replaced the ones that tested bad which was all except the 2 largest ones. I also replaced 4 resistors that tested bad. I still get AC ripple. I can't remember exactly how much but much but it measured in V not mV.
Maybe I should replace the 2 largest caps and see what that gets me.
This is a linear supply? do you have electronic experience? Not sure what a schematic will do. That issue should take 10min to find. Just off the cuff, I would say a diode is tits up. No, I doubt the filter caps are your issue but that is where the experience comes in. Ripple is a function of load.
Did the old caps leak? Did you fix the board from that issue? Can I assume you used proper low ESR caps?
A few pics of the supply would be good. I don't know squat about what we are talking about. Just know it would take an experienced electrohead only minutes to figure it out. Might be worth some calls.
Did the old caps leak? Did you fix the board from that issue? Can I assume you used proper low ESR caps?
A few pics of the supply would be good. I don't know squat about what we are talking about. Just know it would take an experienced electrohead only minutes to figure it out. Might be worth some calls.
ewlsey
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2009
- Location
- Peoria, IL
It's a switch mode power supply.
You have to test the ripple with an oscilloscope with a load on the output. Some of them won't even power on with out a load.
The large caps could affect the ripple, but not as likely, because they are on the input side. More likely a bad regulator, diode, or filter element on the output side.
You have to test the ripple with an oscilloscope with a load on the output. Some of them won't even power on with out a load.
The large caps could affect the ripple, but not as likely, because they are on the input side. More likely a bad regulator, diode, or filter element on the output side.
I have no experience with electronics. Just watched several videos on "Youtube University". That's where I get all my degrees
Especially for vehicle repair!All the caps "visually looked" good but some tested bad with my esr meter. I replace them with the same voltage and uf rating.
The diodes tested good but I'll go back and re-test them to make sure I didn't miss any. I called a TV repair shop that's about an hour from me and he'll look at it.
My vote would be to take it somewhere that fixes power supplies. You might have screwed yourself if you did not source the right caps. ESR is equivalent series resistance. General caps do not have low enough ESR the handle the high frequencies in an SMPS for very long. You buy ONLY the best and lowest ESR caps you can buy and the higher the temp rating, the better. 85C caps are inferior to 105C caps. Ripple is also a function of ESR.
You better vet your repair guy though. Many are just parts changers today. The right guy will find and fix that in short order. If it is multi voltage, you have to figure out how it is constructed and if ripple is evident on all voltages or not. That puts you on the path pretty quick.
You better vet your repair guy though. Many are just parts changers today. The right guy will find and fix that in short order. If it is multi voltage, you have to figure out how it is constructed and if ripple is evident on all voltages or not. That puts you on the path pretty quick.
Huleo I see your in Utah also. I'm in Richmond Ut. Do you know someone local close that can fix power supplies?
The TV repair shop I was talking about in Ogden has been in business for many decades. I assume they should know electronic pretty well but I can't say for sure.
The only other option I know is sending it to Parts and Smarts who will rebuild it for $500.
That's a little steep for my garage hobby that doesn't make money.
We do our repairs inhouse so not sure where to go but Shurt looked to be competent. It would be good to have a contact for repairs regardless. Parts and Smarts would take care of you though. If you have the time, you might try the TV guys. Looks like they do quite a bit and this is a simple repair. I would hope you still have the old caps and have them swap them for SMPS quality caps. You will want those.
An SMPS drives nearly every TV out there so if they do repairs on those, (not replacement only), you should be good.
An SMPS drives nearly every TV out there so if they do repairs on those, (not replacement only), you should be good.
I did keep all the old caps just in case.
I am waiting for a friend to get back to me as well. He works in a machine shop and I asked him who does their repairs. If it's a local company I'll go with them if it's someone internal maybe I can get them to work with me on the side.
I am waiting for a friend to get back to me as well. He works in a machine shop and I asked him who does their repairs. If it's a local company I'll go with them if it's someone internal maybe I can get them to work with me on the side.
It is in your best interest to find and hold resources for repairs if you are in the CNC world. Many of the big repair houses do little actual diagnostic work, and just replace stuff and see if it works and bill you an astronomical amount.
Quick story, a friend had an axis amp with fits. He sent it in for repair. The repair bill was going to be $1200 IF it worked. He got it back free because they did not fix it. I opened it and discovered they swapped an IGBT and a few caps and tried it. After that, they call it "unrepairable". Their work looked like a 90yo blind man worked on it and i had to get the scope on it just to see if they indeed bridged some solder joints.
If you find someone good and reasonable, make sure you know their scope and use them. I recently repaired a microwave for someone having no experience at ALL with them. Electronics can be somewhat universal but some industrial stuff needs a little extra understanding. VFDs are typically outside for a TV guy.
Quick story, a friend had an axis amp with fits. He sent it in for repair. The repair bill was going to be $1200 IF it worked. He got it back free because they did not fix it. I opened it and discovered they swapped an IGBT and a few caps and tried it. After that, they call it "unrepairable". Their work looked like a 90yo blind man worked on it and i had to get the scope on it just to see if they indeed bridged some solder joints.
If you find someone good and reasonable, make sure you know their scope and use them. I recently repaired a microwave for someone having no experience at ALL with them. Electronics can be somewhat universal but some industrial stuff needs a little extra understanding. VFDs are typically outside for a TV guy.
can you please send the link, a picture or something of the after unid, im in need of one power supply.