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Looking for very specific lathe bushings with no luck

wheelieking71

Diamond
Joined
Jan 2, 2013
Location
Gilbert, AZ
So, I have two bushings for the I.D. holders for my lathe (2001 Okuma&Howa HL20) that fit perfectly.
The O/A length, and hole spacing (the set-screws are not centered) is exact for the I.D. holders
And, then I have a bunch of other orphan crap that does not fit nor work nearly as well.
These are the nice ones:

20190828_141004.jpg
20190828_140936.jpg
20190828_140945.jpg

I don't even remember where I got them. But, I am assuming they came with the lathe.
And, since I can't find anything similar, I also assume they are O&H bushings? Since they fit the holders so perfectly.
Or, whoever owned the machine before me (I know who, I'm owner #2) had somebody in their tool-room make these. IDK?

Anyway, I have exhausted all the normal places on the web to look for these things. Rovi, US Shop Tools, Global, etc.......
And, ebay has left me dry for a few years now.

Wondering if maybe somebody recognizes these? Or knows of an obscure place to look I don't?
Shot in the dark, I know.
 
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Those look home made to me. None of these will work?

lathe bushings - Google Search

edit: don't know who the toollots people are or anything about them (on right side of page for me)

Well, yea, lots of different bushings will "work". But, I am a picky bitch, and want some that work perfectly.
Like I mentioned: I have a pile of orphan junk that "works". But, the holes (or slots, I hate slots) never line up.
I have had to toss most of them in the mill, and whittle on them for one reason or another.
I would just like to have a pile of them that are all perfect just like the two pictured.
 
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Well, yea, lots of different bushings will "work". But, I am a picky bitch, and want some that work perfectly.
Like I mentioned: I have a pile of orphan junk that "works". But, the holes (or slots, I hate slots) never line up.
I have had to toss most of them in the mill, and whittle on them for one reason or another.
I would just like to have a pile of them that are all perfect list like the two pictured.

You can make them to be "perfect". I stopped looking for bushings for my ancient Mori Seiki, and now I just make them from precision ground 12L14. Put coolant jets right where you want them, tool offsets exactly where you want them, etc.

Boring bar.jpgInsert drill.jpg

Regards.

Mike
 

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You can make them to be "perfect". I stopped looking for bushings for my ancient Mori Seiki, and now I just make them from precision ground 12L14. Put coolant jets right where you want them, tool offsets exactly where you want them, etc.

View attachment 264585View attachment 264587

Regards.

Mike

Yea, I know. I probably will end up making them. Just don't want to, LOL.
I guess the biggest thing holding me back is: I would prefer to ream the holes if I rolled my own. And, I own very few reamers. Definitely no large reamers.
 
A lot of the ones I have are honed inside. Seems like a good way to do it to me.

Yea, that would be ideal. But, I am not about to go after a bunch of these with a wheel-cylinder hone, LOL. (Read: I don't have a nice Sunnen tucked in a corner anywhere)
Reamed would be fine. I usually indicate drills to center anyway. They are never right on where they should be.
Most times, even after indicating I still have to run it back in a hole very slowing watching with a light to see if it is dragging top or bottom, and adjust accordingly.
 
Global will make you any kind of bushing you want. I don't know if you have to go through a dealer or if they work directly with customers.
 
Well, yea, lots of different bushings will "work". But, I am a picky bitch, and want some that work perfectly.
Like I mentioned: I have a pile of orphan junk that "works". But, the holes (or slots, I hate slots) never line up.
I have had to toss most of them in the mill, and whittle on them for one reason or another.
I would just like to have a pile of them that are all perfect just like the two pictured.

LOL! At least you're honest. :D I agree about not liking the slotted ones, but they are the most universal IMO. And hell once it is on the machine who cares. The ones I linked are cheap (and admittedly look it too), cheap enough to me worth at least trying one and then adapt it to your needs. I don't know you could buy material for those prices?
 
A lot of the ones I have are honed inside. Seems like a good way to do it to me.

For most of these sorts of bushings, I don't think the exact OD and ID are that critical. A boring bar running a thousandth or two high or low is going to work fine, and besides, on my ancient lathe, nothing else is that well aligned. The turret is a bit off, and the tool blocks don't register super-precisely.

Regards.

Mike
 
FWIW - I hate those type bushings!

When you make new ones, make sure to add a double step on the outside like this:

1895p.jpg



It slides in to the first step, and then it gives you a place to git a screwdriver between the upper step and the block to git the bloody thang back out!


Yeah, I've made some of the simple ones over the years, what a PITA! :ack2:


Now I guess this is ass_u_ming that you have a cap on the back of your block so that you can push coolant.
If you have a through hole, then I guess you can tonk it out with a rubber or brass hammer easy enough, but I like my blind holders too.
Maybe you're not the only picky one?



----------------------

Passion
Ox
 
Don’t forget, the split-style toolholder bushings can give your tool a bit more dampening and rigidity...

On a drill, sure. But, who has time to futz around getting boring bar points on center with a split holder?

I bought a really nice little 5/16 Sandvik carbide bar a couple months ago, and about cried when I popped it out of its sleeve and discovered "NO FLAT?!"
"Man, now I am going to hate using this expensive little bar".

I texted Phil and said "man, look at this bar! No flat!" His reply: "Yea, those suck!" LOL
 
I put small bars in collets all the time.
1/2" and under most always are in collet holders.
I just eyeball C/L looking from the vantage point of the bar and eyeballing to the center of the turret.
Centerline or below* should be fine.
I don't seem to have much issue.
(And most of my work is turning these days...)

???


* Keeping in mind that "below" C/L on a rear turret is actually eyeballing "above" from your perspective eh?
(Unless you have it in up side down and werking in X- )



-------------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox
 
Yea, that would be ideal. But, I am not about to go after a bunch of these with a wheel-cylinder hone, LOL. (Read: I don't have a nice Sunnen tucked in a corner anywhere)
Reamed would be fine. I usually indicate drills to center anyway. They are never right on where they should be.
Most times, even after indicating I still have to run it back in a hole very slowing watching with a light to see if it is dragging top or bottom, and adjust accordingly.

After you get a Sunnen hone you will wonder how you survived for so long without one. At least that was my experience.
 








 
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