Looking for very specific lathe bushings with no luck
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  1. #1
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    Default Looking for very specific lathe bushings with no luck

    So, I have two bushings for the I.D. holders for my lathe (2001 Okuma&Howa HL20) that fit perfectly.
    The O/A length, and hole spacing (the set-screws are not centered) is exact for the I.D. holders
    And, then I have a bunch of other orphan crap that does not fit nor work nearly as well.
    These are the nice ones:

    20190828_141004.jpg
    20190828_140936.jpg
    20190828_140945.jpg

    I don't even remember where I got them. But, I am assuming they came with the lathe.
    And, since I can't find anything similar, I also assume they are O&H bushings? Since they fit the holders so perfectly.
    Or, whoever owned the machine before me (I know who, I'm owner #2) had somebody in their tool-room make these. IDK?

    Anyway, I have exhausted all the normal places on the web to look for these things. Rovi, US Shop Tools, Global, etc.......
    And, ebay has left me dry for a few years now.

    Wondering if maybe somebody recognizes these? Or knows of an obscure place to look I don't?
    Shot in the dark, I know.
    Last edited by wheelieking71; 09-05-2019 at 05:48 PM.

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    I think you're going to be rolling your own.

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    looks similar to the 1s MSC sells. I have bought them for my KIA from them.

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    Those look home made to me. None of these will work?

    lathe bushings - Google Search

    edit: don't know who the toollots people are or anything about them (on right side of page for me)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1974 View Post
    Those look home made to me.
    I agree, someone made those in-house.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1974 View Post
    Those look home made to me. None of these will work?

    lathe bushings - Google Search

    edit: don't know who the toollots people are or anything about them (on right side of page for me)
    Well, yea, lots of different bushings will "work". But, I am a picky bitch, and want some that work perfectly.
    Like I mentioned: I have a pile of orphan junk that "works". But, the holes (or slots, I hate slots) never line up.
    I have had to toss most of them in the mill, and whittle on them for one reason or another.
    I would just like to have a pile of them that are all perfect just like the two pictured.
    Last edited by wheelieking71; 09-05-2019 at 05:47 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelieking71 View Post
    Well, yea, lots of different bushings will "work". But, I am a picky bitch, and want some that work perfectly.
    Like I mentioned: I have a pile of orphan junk that "works". But, the holes (or slots, I hate slots) never line up.
    I have had to toss most of them in the mill, and whittle on them for one reason or another.
    I would just like to have a pile of them that are all perfect list like the two pictured.
    You can make them to be "perfect". I stopped looking for bushings for my ancient Mori Seiki, and now I just make them from precision ground 12L14. Put coolant jets right where you want them, tool offsets exactly where you want them, etc.

    boring-bar.jpginsert-drill.jpg

    Regards.

    Mike
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails drill.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by Finegrain View Post
    You can make them to be "perfect". I stopped looking for bushings for my ancient Mori Seiki, and now I just make them from precision ground 12L14. Put coolant jets right where you want them, tool offsets exactly where you want them, etc.

    boring-bar.jpginsert-drill.jpg

    Regards.

    Mike
    Yea, I know. I probably will end up making them. Just don't want to, LOL.
    I guess the biggest thing holding me back is: I would prefer to ream the holes if I rolled my own. And, I own very few reamers. Definitely no large reamers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoss710 View Post
    looks similar to the 1s MSC sells. I have bought them for my KIA from them.
    MSC sells lots of them. I was not able to find anything on MSC even remotely close.

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    A lot of the ones I have are honed inside. Seems like a good way to do it to me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Garwood View Post
    A lot of the ones I have are honed inside. Seems like a good way to do it to me.
    Yea, that would be ideal. But, I am not about to go after a bunch of these with a wheel-cylinder hone, LOL. (Read: I don't have a nice Sunnen tucked in a corner anywhere)
    Reamed would be fine. I usually indicate drills to center anyway. They are never right on where they should be.
    Most times, even after indicating I still have to run it back in a hole very slowing watching with a light to see if it is dragging top or bottom, and adjust accordingly.

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    Global will make you any kind of bushing you want. I don't know if you have to go through a dealer or if they work directly with customers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelieking71 View Post
    Well, yea, lots of different bushings will "work". But, I am a picky bitch, and want some that work perfectly.
    Like I mentioned: I have a pile of orphan junk that "works". But, the holes (or slots, I hate slots) never line up.
    I have had to toss most of them in the mill, and whittle on them for one reason or another.
    I would just like to have a pile of them that are all perfect just like the two pictured.
    LOL! At least you're honest. I agree about not liking the slotted ones, but they are the most universal IMO. And hell once it is on the machine who cares. The ones I linked are cheap (and admittedly look it too), cheap enough to me worth at least trying one and then adapt it to your needs. I don't know you could buy material for those prices?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Garwood View Post
    A lot of the ones I have are honed inside. Seems like a good way to do it to me.
    For most of these sorts of bushings, I don't think the exact OD and ID are that critical. A boring bar running a thousandth or two high or low is going to work fine, and besides, on my ancient lathe, nothing else is that well aligned. The turret is a bit off, and the tool blocks don't register super-precisely.

    Regards.

    Mike

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    FWIW - I hate those type bushings!

    When you make new ones, make sure to add a double step on the outside like this:




    It slides in to the first step, and then it gives you a place to git a screwdriver between the upper step and the block to git the bloody thang back out!


    Yeah, I've made some of the simple ones over the years, what a PITA!


    Now I guess this is ass_u_ming that you have a cap on the back of your block so that you can push coolant.
    If you have a through hole, then I guess you can tonk it out with a rubber or brass hammer easy enough, but I like my blind holders too.
    Maybe you're not the only picky one?



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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelieking71 View Post
    So, I have two bushings for the I.D. holders for my lathe (2001 Okuma&Howa HL20) that fit perfectly.
    What is the OD of the bushing? IIRC it was 1-3/4?

    How about something like this one?

    J TYPE TOOL HOLDER BUSHING 1-3/4 OD" 1-1/2 ID " | eBay
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails s-l1600.jpg  

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    Don’t forget, the split-style toolholder bushings can give your tool a bit more dampening and rigidity...

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    Quote Originally Posted by cnctoolcat View Post
    Don’t forget, the split-style toolholder bushings can give your tool a bit more dampening and rigidity...
    On a drill, sure. But, who has time to futz around getting boring bar points on center with a split holder?

    I bought a really nice little 5/16 Sandvik carbide bar a couple months ago, and about cried when I popped it out of its sleeve and discovered "NO FLAT?!"
    "Man, now I am going to hate using this expensive little bar".

    I texted Phil and said "man, look at this bar! No flat!" His reply: "Yea, those suck!" LOL

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    I put small bars in collets all the time.
    1/2" and under most always are in collet holders.
    I just eyeball C/L looking from the vantage point of the bar and eyeballing to the center of the turret.
    Centerline or below* should be fine.
    I don't seem to have much issue.
    (And most of my work is turning these days...)

    ???


    * Keeping in mind that "below" C/L on a rear turret is actually eyeballing "above" from your perspective eh?
    (Unless you have it in up side down and werking in X- )



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  27. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelieking71 View Post
    Yea, that would be ideal. But, I am not about to go after a bunch of these with a wheel-cylinder hone, LOL. (Read: I don't have a nice Sunnen tucked in a corner anywhere)
    Reamed would be fine. I usually indicate drills to center anyway. They are never right on where they should be.
    Most times, even after indicating I still have to run it back in a hole very slowing watching with a light to see if it is dragging top or bottom, and adjust accordingly.
    After you get a Sunnen hone you will wonder how you survived for so long without one. At least that was my experience.


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