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Lyndex er16 balanced toolholders

Metalurgent

Cast Iron
Joined
Feb 14, 2013
Location
New York City,
I bought some used bt30 er16 toolholders on the auction site. I'm not familiar with the setup for the locking nut. What tools do I need to remove this collet nut and loosen/change out the collet? Can I replace the existing collet nuts with the generic "hex" style locking nut? Apparently these holders can be balanced for high rpm use. Since my mill goes 4k rpm flat out, I don't expect I will need that feature.
Has anyone used this style?
I haven't received them yet, but I would like to get a head start on finding parts that will work.
Thanks.

Metalurgent

Link to photos;

Er16 collet holder - Google Photos
 
The "mini-nut" available thru various places like Mari-Tool "should" be a good replacement.

https://us.rego-fix.com/system/files/products/pdf/711416000.pdf[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the information. I hadn't seen this type before and I was concerned that the slot in the holding nuts held some sort of proprietary clip/double sleeve and that I would wreck them if I just held them in a collet block and tried to back them out.

This lot is certainly not pretty. I'm building an inventory of 30 taper stuff and taking my chances on condition when bargains appear.
 
I bought some used bt30 er16 toolholders on the auction site. I'm not familiar with the setup for the locking nut. What tools do I need to remove this collet nut and loosen/change out the collet? Can I replace the existing collet nuts with the generic "hex" style locking nut? Apparently these holders can be balanced for high rpm use. Since my mill goes 4k rpm flat out, I don't expect I will need that feature.
Has anyone used this style?
I haven't received them yet, but I would like to get a head start on finding parts that will work.
Thanks.

Metalurgent

Link to photos;

Er16 collet holder - Google Photos

Link is like the ocean. Which ones do YOU have?

Three different wrenches used for my ER menagery. All are common enough:

- basic hex 'nuf said.

- face-slotted or "castellated", at the front: Just order the wrench. Two is better.

- side-grooved for flat-faced "hook" spanner: Just order the wrench. Two is better.

ALL are meant to be tightened to a spec. With a torque wrench. As-are TG and SK.

That's harder.

Most of us just cheat and go with "feels about right from experience".
Which is usually good enough.

Nuts are meant to be interchangeable, even if some are anti-friction bearing equipped, others less-blessed.

"Meant to be" has been known to skip class now and then.

You'd have to know the tooling industry?
 








 
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