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Machining aluminum high doc low radial

Jacob653

Plastic
Joined
Jan 8, 2021
hello,

I'm running into some problems with chatter and getting a really bad finish on my parts. I'm using a 3"LOC .25 Dia carbide ball end mill 3 flute. It stickouts from the tool holder flange by 9".I have to use a heatshrink style holder that has a heatshrink extension to reach the bottom of the pocket. I'm trying to do a side profile with it at the bottom of a pocket. The stepover i have set right now is .01 radial engagement with 2.5" doc. Wanting to know what others would try and set their speeds and feeds.

Thank you if i don't reply back.


After testing. So far i just slowed it down all the way to 200 rpm and a ipm of .6. and it came out good enough. Thank you everybody for the suggestions.
 
Last edited:
You weren’t kidding about long stickout.

Be careful of excessive run out.

I wouldn’t run that over 2500 rpm. Prob would end up like 2k. Take small step downs like .02”. I don’t think you will be able to finish the wall very deep. Maybe finish .25” of the wall height at a time. Light shallow passes at a slow rpm. Going to take a while.
No way will you be able to side mill 2.5”. With light passes and no chatter, even many step downs won’t show much in the finish and the radius of your ball will mask most of that anyway.
 
Yeah that's a slow and steady cut...If you can ramp down to keep engagement both radially and axially I think that would be your best bet...and leave a few thou for a spring pass.
 
hello,

I'm running into some problems with chatter and getting a really bad finish on my parts. I'm using a 3"LOC .25 Dia carbide ball end mill 3 flute.

With that amount of stickout for that size end mill, I'd look for more flutes.
More flutes = stronger end mill.

Find an end mill with 5-6 flutes and decrease your stepover by 50% or more.
 
Yep. Deflection goes up with I believe the third power of stickout for the same sideload. Any little bit you can shorten that tool or increase its diameter will help, in addition to what's been said already. Relieved cutter making shallower passes (1/2" LOC?) will increase rigidity and reduce sideload.
 
Can you use a tapered Endmill?
It is very rare someone REALLY needs to use a long ballnose with straight walls.

I would suggest
0. Try to see if a tapered tool can be used.
1. switching to a bullnose with a small radius. Maybe .03r
2. Use a necked tool with small LOC.

I didn't even know they make 10" long 1/4" ballnoses

EDIT: another thing I would suggest:
At certain WOC, the axial force (and thus deflection) will be close to zero. Depends on a lot of factors like tool design, helix angle etc. You would need to make some test cuts to find the sweet spot.
 








 
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