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Machinist's tape

snowshooze

Stainless
Joined
Sep 15, 2010
Location
Anchorage, Alaska, USA
Hi Guys.
I just did a job cutting plate parts 1/8" thick.
I started on MDF with carpet tape.
As soon as the coolant hit, it let go.
So, next adventure was Hippee tape on UHMB...
Much more stable, but same problem when coolant hit it.
It released.
Is there a double stick that can survive a Mineral oil based coolant like my Blaser 755B?
And without having to use Taluline to clean it?
Thanks,
Mark
 
I'll give John Saunders credit on this one, but the method actually works really well.

Super Glue

You want to put tape on both the workpiece and the work-holding surface. Painters tape is good, but powder coating tape is better. Single layer of tape on both, being careful not to have any overlaps that would send the part cockeyed. Super glue + accelerator, stick them together with a weight or clamp to get a good bond... go to town. Heat + Acetone + Scraping to release.
 
I'm not aware of any tapes that hold up to coolant, but are still easy to clean. Some might hold up better, but often leave a residue mess behind.

Is the tape to mark the stock, protect the finish, or hold multiple pieces together when cutting? If marking, I'd just use a scribe or sharpie and forgo any tape. If the tape is for holding sticks together, try tie-wire.
 
Well...

What kind of material are you cutting? Do you even need coolant?
I got through it without coolant. But I ran so slow I thought I would die of old age.. with a cool air breeze keeping the tape from softening..
I liaid cutting oil only in the tool-path with an acid brush.
and six dowel pins through the material into the stage to keep the material from shearing over.
It was a lot of trouble the way I did it.
I guess I won... sort'a...
 
Here's my process for holding down various materials with tape.

I make sure everything is spotlessly clean, usually with acetone or alcohol (use simple green if your part is plastic).

Don't use double sided carpet tape, it doesn't stick well and I find when coolant hit's it, it turns into a goopy mess and the residue takes forever to clean up.

Go on amazon and search for "woodworkers tape" there's a bunch on there, just pick one. I find this stuff doesn't leave residue after it's removed.

Amazon.com : LLPT Double Sided Tape for Woodworking Template and CNC Removable Residue Free 108 Feet Multiple Sizes (WT258) : Office Products

I put the tape down on my part and smooth it down with a putty knife or razor blade to get rid of any air bubbles and then peel off the backing and afix to the work surface. I usually set something heavy on top of the part for a few minutes while I finish setting up or programming.

This procedure works for me well most of the time when using coolant.
 
I use Bron 2" wide double sided tape. I bought a case of it 10 years ago and its still really sticky. Its like the good duct tape but 2 sided. I always press the part down with about 10 tons using a 12" x 12" flat alu plate in the press for about 30sec. Only use for sub .2" stuff. It resists 585xt ok.
 
On the rare occasion that I use tape I have found that metal tape (like the stuff HVAC guys use hide crappy sheet metal joints) works well. The metal that you are going to be applying it too needs to be clean ,du, and it does not do so well with CI but like Al or stainless, adhesion is pretty good. I have not used it under flood coolant conditions.
Don't IMHO use duck tape, I used it once and it stuck really really well, especially after a little heat from the cutting process. Took forever to get all the fucking residue off, but it did stick.
 








 
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