Making a deep hole - Haas ST-30Y
Close
Login to Your Account
Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Country
    NORWAY
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    0

    Default Making a deep hole - Haas ST-30Y

    Hi,
    I have worked a lot with plastics, mostly POM-C, but I am inexperienced with 316L.
    I'm planning to take a Ø160mm 316L bolt which is 180mm long and turn a hole which has a ID of 132mm and depth of 150mm.

    What's the best way to get started?
    Because I prefer a flat surface in the end of the hole I was thinking of using a roughing end mill to full depth before using an ID turning tool. Is there a better and more sensible way? A drill bit (with coolant?)would work out less expensive & they are offered in the cutting length I require. The end of the hole would not be flat though - I would need to overshoot to allow ID turning tool to work at full depth.

    Side note:
    Until now we've done most of our work on a half-decent manual lathe and mill.
    We plan to purchase a Haas ST30-Y so that we can make more parts in-house, rather than facing long lead times with subcontractors in a heated market.

    Many thanks for all tips!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    South Carolina
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    1

    Default

    Not sure what size they go up to, but I know Allied Machine and Engineering makes some flat spade inserts to go in their TA series drills. I have also worked with them on several specials and had a good experience.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Utah
    Posts
    4,678
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1240
    Likes (Received)
    2619

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Schjell View Post
    Hi,
    I have worked a lot with plastics, mostly POM-C, but I am inexperienced with 316L.
    I'm planning to take a Ø160mm 316L bolt which is 180mm long
    I'm assuming that "bolt" is Norwegian for blank or something, and not a Fastener.

    This is not a difficult hole to make. Drill it as big as is realistic, then use a Boring bar and finish the size and flat bottom.

    R

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Country
    NORWAY
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    0

    Default

    You are correct Rob - a "blank" is what I meant.
    Planning to get this one for making centerhole.

    Thanks for the input guys.

    KR
    John

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Utah
    Posts
    4,678
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1240
    Likes (Received)
    2619

    Default

    Okay, I really like Kennametal's DF series. Others do not!! They are very loud if you're running them right. You need to get coolant through the Drill, no exceptions. I would start at 3/4 of the recommended Speed and half the Feed. Just to start. I've drilled a Million holes with them. They are really tough for indexable Drills, but they are still indexable Drills, so they need attention. Coolant mixture, good flow, alignment, no pecking.

    R

  6. Likes Schjell liked this post
  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Tennessee
    Posts
    201
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    128
    Likes (Received)
    78

    Default

    I would look at an Ultradex inserted drill. On an ST30 you can push even a 2” drill probably bigger. Then an Everede 1.25” carbide shank boring bar to rough and finish the ID. Granted not cheap - probably $4000 just in the tools. But you would definitely have a good hole pretty fast.

  8. Likes Schjell liked this post
  9. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Illinois
    Posts
    23
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    0

    Default

    If it truly has to be flat bottom and you lack tools for a flat bottom, once in a while I jab a wnmg boring bar to Z depth as close to X centerline as I can. It will always leave a conical part in the center of the bottom bore face. Once there is a little cone left on center of the bottom face, reverse the spindle and get the bar on the forbidden side (X-) of the part. You can then actually touch the Z depth and face toward center from there. A boring bar can turn a part too with the spindle in reverse and if you have the reach to get to it on the X- side... As for gutting the hole, you are on your own as you know $ vs. time is your prerogative. Let me know if this is confusing, but I use it often to get pristine flat bottom holes in the lathe. !


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •