Currently we are in a pinch for some new jaws for our lathe. They are an odd size and I was thinking they could be made on a CNC mill. the only issues is the 1.5 x 60 serrated face. I've though of 2 ways to get them, one being use a thread mill and run passes to create the serrations or mounting it on an angle plate and using a standard endmill. I didn't know if anyone else has had experience with this. Any tips or suggestions (i know buying some would be the best option but currently not possible)
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Making lathe jaws on a MILL
- Thread starter cnczack
- Start date
- Replies 12
- Views 1,966
thesidetalker
Stainless
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2015
- Location
- Bay Area, CA
Making lathe jaws was the first part I programmed and setup on a mill. hah
Used a threadmill the first time.
Once in a while we'll make some in a pinch, but use a inserted dovetail cutter with the part at an angle on a 4th axis. Can feed much faster with a larger rigid tool. Goes pretty quick.
Used a threadmill the first time.
Once in a while we'll make some in a pinch, but use a inserted dovetail cutter with the part at an angle on a 4th axis. Can feed much faster with a larger rigid tool. Goes pretty quick.
Bobw
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2005
- Location
- Hatch, NM Chile capital of the WORLD
I've had to make them due to an oddball chuck.
Mine are 90 degree serrations, but I originally thought
they were 60's. My plan was to stand the jaws at 60 degrees
and use a dovetail cutter.
I ended up kicking over at 45 and using a square corner endmill.
Simple loop, up and over.
I made a (vise)jaw to hold my (lathe)jaws at 45 (just like I was planning
to make a jaw to hold at 60 degrees). Worked great, and that jaw
has saved my bacon on a whole bunch of other things too.
Mine are 90 degree serrations, but I originally thought
they were 60's. My plan was to stand the jaws at 60 degrees
and use a dovetail cutter.
I ended up kicking over at 45 and using a square corner endmill.
Simple loop, up and over.
I made a (vise)jaw to hold my (lathe)jaws at 45 (just like I was planning
to make a jaw to hold at 60 degrees). Worked great, and that jaw
has saved my bacon on a whole bunch of other things too.
Unfortunately we don't have a 4th axis on this machine nor a dovetail cutter.. womp womp lol. How do you know the depth in the serrations? I can obviously tell the pitch but not the depth
I've had to make them due to an oddball chuck.
Mine are 90 degree serrations, but I originally thought
they were 60's. My plan was to stand the jaws at 60 degrees
and use a dovetail cutter.
I ended up kicking over at 45 and using a square corner endmill.
Simple loop, up and over.
I made a (vise)jaw to hold my (lathe)jaws at 45 (just like I was planning
to make a jaw to hold at 60 degrees). Worked great, and that jaw
has saved my bacon on a whole bunch of other things too.
Great idea with the vise jaw to hold the lathe jaw!!
Simple trigonometry will give you that answer.
thesidetalker
Stainless
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2015
- Location
- Bay Area, CA
Make some mill softjaws like Bobw posted to hold stuff at angles then.
Measure the depth of the groove with small gage pins, just like you would use thread wires to measure pitch dia.
Trueturning
Diamond
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2019
Seriously this is one thing best bought not made. Do as you wish since you say they are sort of unique.
Sure in a pinch anything is better than waiting if you are equipped and tooled well.
Hardplates
Stainless
- Joined
- May 8, 2019
- Location
- What once was a free country
That is exactly why I have a tool holder laying around with a threading bar in it. Not the fastest way but I'll let a mill chug along cutting the serrations while I run one that is making money.
As far as the depth I just model the jaws up to have a flat big enough so that the crest of the jaw has clearance from the root of the chuck. A little extra flat won't hurt but being too pointy will.
As far as the depth I just model the jaws up to have a flat big enough so that the crest of the jaw has clearance from the root of the chuck. A little extra flat won't hurt but being too pointy will.
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dsjansen
Plastic
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2017
- Location
- WA, USA, EARTH, SOL
I had a need for some soft jaws a while back, but ended up using a 60deg chamfer mill and just plowed straight through. Only needed them once and they worked just fine.
Phil in Montana
Stainless
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2007
- Location
- Missoula Mt
Easy pezzy, mill the jaws to fit. put them in the lathe chuck with a od ring and machine the grooves on the id, then use a ring on the id and machine the groves on the od. Made lots of jaws for the Bullard this way, if you want points put the jaws back in the mill and use a 60d cutter...Phil
I do the same thing, also have one with a horn tool in it for relieving tall mill jaw corners "L "
DouglasJRizzo
Titanium
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2011
- Location
- Ramsey, NJ.
I remember dad doing this on the CNC mill. He was waiting for jaws to arrive and got the idea. Used a dovetail cutter and it worked just fine til the real ones arrived. Considering all the effort, unless you're really in a bind, call Ajax, Dillon, or Durfee and order a set or two.
