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  1. #21
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    Last year I sold my 35 year old model 816 Wells saw that I bought new. Still cut great, but time to replace it. Bought another Wellsaw 1018 that will probably last another 30+ years.
    Progressive Tool @ MFG. INC. Greensboro, NC

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by jancollc View Post
    ......If you have a bunch of sawing to do, you can load up your truck and just spend a half day knocking it all out on my machines. Won't bother me a bit.
    That's a super generous offer!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jancollc View Post
    I'd put an asterisk on the first part- I've seen ferrous cold saws that were 27/54 RPM, and 54 is too slow for aluminum- at least if you want to get through it in a reasonable time.

    I use a triple chip profile on everything. On aluminum I use 90T or 110T pitch, on steel and stainless solids I use a 180T. On stainless tubing, I use a 220T.

    I just had a blade made for stainless tubing with a 220T pitch and a BW profile, but I haven't tried it out yet.

    I also have a big Kalamazoo non-ferrous cold saw that I use for aluminum extrusions only. It uses carbide tipped blades and goes like a raped ape. I don't know how fast it is, but it screams. It makes beautiful square cuts, but it's noisy as hell and you don't run it without ear protection...

    @gundog- you are welcome to stop by my shop and try out the cold saws anytime. I'm just across the Fremont Bridge in PDX. If you have a bunch of sawing to do, you can load up your truck and just spend a half day knocking it all out on my machines. Won't bother me a bit.
    Thanks for the offer after thinking all this through for now I am going to have Coast cut the 6" x 6" angle since those parts are all cut the same length at least for now cutting bar stock doesn't have a big enough error to worry about. I would like to have a saw that cuts my 1" x .5" dovetail extrusion but I cut that all the time and the material is 24' long so packing it up to haul and cut it is not practical. I really do appreciate the offer though. I might take you up on coming by with some material to see how the cut looks so I know what saw I want to buy. Business is slow this time of year so funds are low but after the new year I will have the funds to get a new saw.

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  5. #24
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    If you haven't already, check out xometry supplies. I ordered 49 pieces of cut-to-length aluminum flat bar last week for less $ than uncut stock at my cheapest local supplier (I have three suppliers that I use locally so it's not like there's no competition). I think the price worked out to less than 30 cents per cubic inch and shipping was free. My order is supposed to arrive today so we'll see if it's junk or a good deal.

    I have been standing in front of my little grizzly horizontal band saw cutting thousands of pieces of aluminum over the past year so I'm hoping it does work out.

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    I have found that going-out-of-business auctions are a great place to pick up saws on the cheap. If someone is just selling their old saw you never know why...maybe because it cuts 3/16” off square over 7” haha. Every shop has at least one and it is usually working just fine...unless the problematic band saw is what put them out of business haha. I picked up a 16” automatic feed “MEGA” saw with roller table and it works full production these days feeding within .005” and cutting straight. I got it for like $2,000. It was the greatest thing I’ve ever done haha.

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    I might be a bit shade tree but have you tried using a miter saw with a carbide blade for cutting your extrusions? They even make blades intended for cutting aluminum. A shop I used to work for used the panel saw in the carpenters shop to cut aluminum sheet to more manageable sizes.

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  9. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenton View Post
    I might be a bit shade tree but have you tried using a miter saw with a carbide blade for cutting your extrusions? They even make blades intended for cutting aluminum. A shop I used to work for used the panel saw in the carpenters shop to cut aluminum sheet to more manageable sizes.
    I have thought about that I have a 12" dewalt sliding miter saw that I considered using but I think it may gum up without some sort of lube or coolant. I also have a Mikita metal chop saw.

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    Dewalt makes a cold saw for cutting metal, they are around $800 on amazon

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    Quote Originally Posted by majohnson View Post
    Try the Lenox bandsaw blades.
    And find the right one which takes some experimentation. Blades will make a huge difference in how square you cut ends up even if your saw is very sloppy.
    The difference between held squareness tolerances on quality and cheap blades can be enormous.
    Bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by gundog View Post
    I have thought about that I have a 12" dewalt sliding miter saw that I considered using but I think it may gum up without some sort of lube or coolant. I also have a Mikita metal chop saw.
    We cut aluminum all the time on a table saw. We just hit the blade with a block of beeswax periodically. There are cutting greases for aluminum as well. Picking up a fogbuster for the saw would be a fairly inexpensive option as well if you have a lot of cutting to do. We use a non ferrous blade for the saw which has a slight negative rake.

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    If you were close to me, I'd also offer. Just come over, don't hurt the saw, go for it.
    Maybe find someone local to you that has a decent saw, and swap favors.
    As others have said, watch for a used saw on craigslist or auction or where ever.
    I now have a Cosen automatic, and it's paid for itself. It repeats within .002, wasted material has gone way down. Figure out how much material you waste, and maybe there's enough value to get a really nice saw. That's how it worked for me, and it never wants a raise or complains. It even counts better than my helpers!

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    Where im from most shops run Hyd-mech saws, Im using a S20. Its really nice for a small-medium shop. Large capacity, and the head miters which comes in really handy every now and then.

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    I had a 350mm SOCO cold saw that I added jaws on top which allowed the 3-1/2” saw to cut 1/2” x 6” plate with no problem.

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    There was a pretty darn decent looking Summit full auto bandsaw on Seattle Craigslist for the past 2 weeks for $900. It appears it finally sold, but you might watch to see if the ad just expired. It wasn't easy convincing myself I did not need two automatic bandsaws. That was a hell of a deal.

    I have a 9x16 Jet miter saw that has been a really, really good saw and a gargantuan old 15x30 or so Kalamazoo auto that works great and is real quiet.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mhajicek View Post
    I picked up one of these about a year ago:
    https://www.mscdirect.com/product/de...rItem=00919522

    It's serving me well cutting 17-4 H900 and Ti6Al4V. The 1" blade lasts a lot longer and cuts a lot straighter than the 3/4" blade on my previous one.
    I have the same saw. It is okay. It definitely speaks mandarin well!
    The electronics are as cheap as possible to get working units out the door. Including the under-powered motor (single-ph).
    It trips the protection very easily. And, the plastic hand-wheel on the vise annoys the hell out of me.
    But, for the money? It cuts very straight, and was new, with very few surprises.

  18. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by gundog View Post
    I have thought about that I have a 12" dewalt sliding miter saw that I considered using but I think it may gum up without some sort of lube or coolant. I also have a Mikita metal chop saw.
    With a new blade not and not cutting too much you don't need any lube. The thicker the section the more you need some lube. Your 1" x 1/2" would be no problem. I cut 1" x 1-3/4" all the time without much issue. I like Concord tcg blades on Amazon, dirt cheap and better than Freuds.

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    I order online all cut from xometry or midwest steel supply. Prices are cheaper than local prices including shipping a lot of the time, less dings and dents and ships right to my door.

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  21. #38
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    Have you considered a Marvel 8 vertical bandsaw. Ebay listings from $3500.00 up. I've had mine since 1982.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gundog View Post
    Thanks for the offer after thinking all this through for now I am going to have Coast cut the 6" x 6" angle since those parts are all cut the same length at least for now cutting bar stock doesn't have a big enough error to worry about. I would like to have a saw that cuts my 1" x .5" dovetail extrusion but I cut that all the time and the material is 24' long so packing it up to haul and cut it is not practical. I really do appreciate the offer though. I might take you up on coming by with some material to see how the cut looks so I know what saw I want to buy. Business is slow this time of year so funds are low but after the new year I will have the funds to get a new saw.
    Quick sawing info to keep in mind - Saws are not all that different than drills, mills, or lathes. The speed of the tool (saw blade) is relative to the machinability rate of the material. Cold saws with low speed ranges in the 50 to 150rpm range can cut ferrous materials with great accuracy and finish. Non-Ferrous saws typically have blade speeds edging towards 3000rpm range and make mirror finish cuts that require little if any machining or deburring. Band saws usually have speed ranges that are metered in feet per minute, which you could easily calculate on a circular by figuring the circumference times the rpm. It will be clear after doing that calculation, and then referring to a sawing feed and speed chart, that the difference between a ferrous saw and a non-ferrous saw is considerable. Aluminum cuts more like wood than steel, and therefore we see a lot of people use high end wood saws - to save a buck - as extrusion cutting machines - Miter box style saws such as Hitachi and Omga are good high powered saws with heavy backfences to take the abuse that a low-end box store miter saw can't - a guy could end up buying 3-4 of those every year. If you want to cut extrusions and smaller aluminum pieces, that's a good start. For oil, you won't need much - the lubricant on any aluminum saw is only there to keep the tooth tip and gullet lubricated. Heat on the tooth is the enemy when cutting aluminum!

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  24. #40
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    Default Manual saw for cutting up blanks recommendations.

    I didn’t see anyone mention a Roll-in-saw
    I think they are $6200 new, but they last forever and can be found used cheapish. They are built like tanks and the new ones look like 30 year old ones except the new one can take a thicker cut.

    I didn’t even know they existed until someone here mentioned them. Took me 3-4 months to find a real nice one sorta local (9hr round trip) for $1500
    Made in the USA if you care


    Roll-In Saw | Metalworking Band Saws | United States

    Edit- forgot to mention, mine is a 1984, and all the parts are still available.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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