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Mori Seiki SL1 wont power on

fuquamatt

Aluminum
Joined
Sep 27, 2016
I purchased a Mori Seiki SL1 a while back in order to get it up an running again. I have slowly been working on it and cleaning it up. When I turn on the power on the main breaker the green led light on the spindle drive comes on without any codes and when I try to turn on the crt panel nothing happens. The power light on the outside of the machine is not coming on either and it is getting the correct power. The fan is also coming on inside the cabinet. I have slowly been tracing cables to see if I have power up in the crt and I believe I do and the fuses are not blown. Is there anything that I should be looking at a little closer before I start to pull more of the machine apart?
Thanks.
 
As Ewsley alluded to some of those old machines either need the power button pressed twice or held down. If that doesn't work measure all out puts on all power supplies, some machines have two of them.
 
It is a 3T with the FAPT. Nothing happens when your press and hold or when you press the power button twice.
 
You need to find the power supply and figure out if you have the voltage taps right. The machine needs 24VDC from the power supply for the push buttons to work correctly.

Do you have an electrical schematic?
 
Check way lube oil level.I had one that had an issue with lube pump.I could turn power on off several times and it would always start.
 
My apologies, reviving a 30+ month old thread.
I'm looking for any help I can get from anyone familiar with these 80's Mori SL lathes.
I picked up a 1985 SL1-A with Yasnac LX2 control just over 1 year ago. Just getting around to getting power to it.
It is powered by a 20hp American Rotary RPC, the motor is 3rd party. The voltage balance isn't great, ~8%; 222V, 232V, 242V. This may or may not be a problem.
My pal, whom I bought this lathe from said he saw it power up with an alarm (idk what alarm) when he bought it. I bought it from him immediately afterward.
My problem is that my CRT will not power up, nor will my keypad light up. The best I get is a 5 second beep from a piezo buzzer (continuous beep if I manually close the contactor labeled SVM in the CPU panel, which seems to power the JANCD-TUO2B power supply).
I have not been able to find what condition this buzzer is supposed to indicate. Pushing the on button 2x or 3x does nothing, with or without E-stop.
Tests completed already:
-Verified hydraulic pressure. One phase was originally reversed, pump ran backwards, no pressure.
-Checked for tripped breakers or fuses. All fuses have continuity, no breakers found tripped in either cabinet.
-Doors remain closed, interlocks pressed - I can't turn the interlock bypass switch for some reason.
-Voltages into and out of the two transformers are good. Already tapped for 220/240 (no 230 taps).
-My way lubrication oil sump was half full. I filled it with Tellus and it did not change anything.
-Hydraulic sump indicated full.
- The 5/12/24V CPU power supply in the door only powers on when the SVM contactor is manually closed. The output voltages all match their labels.
- The main contractor NFB1 had the 100V control wires S11 and S111 disconnected and the source wires were jumpered when I got it, I don't know why, though when they are connected normally, the main contactor trips immediately when powered on. It seems counterintuitive for the contactor to open when the coil is energized, but I'm not sure if this indicates an interlock or overload.

My main remaining questions:
- What does the beeper/buzzer indicate when switching on the NC?
- What interlocks, if any, prevent the NC from powering on?
- Does the hydraulic system have pressure switches for interlocks? My pressures are 450psi Main, 120psi Chuck, 270psi Tailstock. One of the regulator knobs could have been bumped while moving.
- Is my NFB1/Main contactor behavior normal? (100V to S11, S111 kicks contactor open, 0V leaves it closed). Do I have a bad contactor or do I have an interlock/overload shutting it off when connected normally? My 3ph power monitor displays 5A,5A,2A or ~1500W with hydraulics/fans running.

Thank you in advance for any info or pointers anybody has. My cell is 8014278243, in case you have time to text/ call.
 








 
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