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Need a tip to align a turret of a Hawk 150

Temo

Plastic
Joined
Feb 25, 2013
Location
Pomona, Ca
I'll try to be as specific as possible, I recently bought a Cincinnati Hawk 150, I already aligned the X and the Z axis, however, as I faced a part I notice that the tool is not on center.

The pin that centers the turret to the motor is on location, but I still not on center line, to double check this I put the VDI toolholder and it's off by .010" as I move the X axis.

I got the same .010" with 2 different holders and in 2 different tool locations.

There's got to be a way to rotate the whole unit to get the toolholder straight and therefore get the tool on centerline.

In the following picture (without the turret) you can see what appears to be a clamp (there's 4 of them, the other 2 on the bottom), I losen them and I try to rotate the turret but I couldn't get it to move, I didn't want to use a long pry bar out of fear of breaking something.

What am I missing?

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Those are clamps for the coolant ring. To adjust the turret, loosen the 6 bolts in the center and bump turret around until it is on center, then tighten the bolts.
 
One way would be to mount a boring bar on turret and indicator on chuck and check at quadrant points. Very likely there will be some indicator sag top and bottom. As little as .001 to .01.

Another way is to make face cuts until tit goes away.
 
I did and extensive revision and could not find a way to move the turret.

Next question, maybe this can be set up in the origin/home parameters of the machine?
 
Do you have a parts book? The turret is positioned by a curvic coupling pair in most machines. One side of the coupling is bolted to the turret body, the other half to the tool turret. Most likely the tool turret is pinned to the moveable side of the curvic with pull dowels. You won't be able to shift the tool turret unless the dowels are lose or completely removed. Your parts breakwown should show this. On many machines the procedure is to loosen or remove the dowels, snug up the curvic bolts, knock the turret into alignment and then tighten the bolts and re-ream the dowel holes or leave them out. Best practice is to indicate an OD tool slot in the tool turret zero-zero when jogging the X axis. If you have a VDI turret mount an OD tool holder and indicate that.
 
This is as far as I got and decided to stop, I removed the coolant retaining ring, the screws and the dowel pins, after I saw another 9 screws and another 3 dowel pins I decided to stop. Maybe the curvic coupling is behind that plate but I couldn't find a way to remove the part further.

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Best practice is to indicate an OD tool slot in the tool turret zero-zero when jogging the X axis. If you have a VDI turret mount an OD tool holder and indicate that.

I did this, I got the tool cero on the X axis, however, "up and down" is .003" off, the locator pin is on place, this is what's confusing me, even if I losen the bolts and rotate the turret to cero I still get a .070" tip (aprox) as I faced a part.

My solution is to shim the tool to get in center; goes with out saying I don't want to do this for every tool.
 
What can I use as a reference to indicate the turret straight?

If the Hawk is like other lathes I'm familiar with, the headstock can move in and out on a flat base until the center lines up with the turning tool tip and boring bar centers.
If the headstock is presently straight with the bed, use a pair of indicators to move both ends the same amount.

Edit - posting while you were posting.
 
I understand Mud's point, but make sure you don't create a 2nd problem fixing the 1st one. The center line between the center of turret rotation and the tool tip or center of an ID tool holder MUST be parallel to the X axis slide before you start moving the headstock around. That's why I suggested indicating an OD tool slot 0-0 to check turret alignment. Even if the machine uses a shot pin rather than a curvic coupling, the tool disk has to have a way to adjust its orientation relative to the turret lock mechanism- shot pin or curvic coupling.
 
I found the problem.

A friend asked me if the VDI holder is metric or inches, for some reason the PO bought all the toolholders in inches.

I just tried a metric VDI and the tool is right on center.

It never crossed my mind that it would be something this simple.

I did learn a lot tho.

Thanks all for the replies.
 
I never heard of an "inch" VDI holder.

:confused:


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OH!

I bet that you mean that the straight shank holder was for 20mm tools in stead of 3/4"?




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