What's new
What's new

New Machine Day! Little Fadal 2016L

TheOldCar

Stainless
Joined
Jul 31, 2011
Location
Utah, USA
Absolutely no idea how to use this machine, but it’s here!

Next on the list is leveling, cleaning it inside and out, and then wiring it up.

And extra bonus was a box full of Collis CAT40 tool holders, as well as 2 integral CAT40 Albrecht keyless chucks, an integral ER16 collet holder and an integral tension compression tap. Very happy!

F23A2FD5-B9DA-44E2-8386-7EA367D2F365.jpg

2FBDF6E8-35DC-4584-B754-F9295B01ED86.jpg

Forgive the terrible photos; iPhone ain’t so friendly.
 
On wiring- they're picky about voltages. Use the xmfr to get as close as possible to your machines desired voltage. Bobw has posted at length about this.

Some good videos on youtube, that's where I'd start.

Read the manuals. They're long and that's because they're pretty well detailed.

Search here, it's been a tremendous resource for me.

Facebook, the Fadal group is active and very helpful.


Congratulations!

Programmed via Mazatrol
 
On wiring- they're picky about voltages. Use the xmfr to get as close as possible to your machines desired voltage. Bobw has posted at length about this.

Some good videos on youtube, that's where I'd start.

Read the manuals. They're long and that's because they're pretty well detailed.

Search here, it's been a tremendous resource for me.

Facebook, the Fadal group is active and very helpful.


Congratulations!

Programmed via Mazatrol

Awesome advice and warnings.
I probably shouldn’t use my plain-Jane RPCs on this machine. I’m not excited as out getting a Phase Perfect; maybe there are “better balanced” or “CNC” RPCs that will work.
 
Awesome advice and warnings.
I probably shouldn’t use my plain-Jane RPCs on this machine. I’m not excited as out getting a Phase Perfect; maybe there are “better balanced” or “CNC” RPCs that will work.
I >think< and rpc will do fine, IF you ensure the wild leg doesn't go to the controls.

Programmed via Mazatrol
 
I ran my Deckel FP2NC on an American Rotary "CNC" RPC for years. The only issue was that the control would fault out due to under-voltage if I tried to start the spindle in high gear at the same time as doing a rapid traverse on all three axes at once. I learned to insert a G04 F1.0 pause after every spindle start in my G-code. I stopped having to do that after I got my PhasePerfect. You should have lots of money leftover for a PP since you opted for a used Fadal over a brand-spankin'-new Haas. :)
 
I ran my Deckel FP2NC on an American Rotary "CNC" RPC for years. The only issue was that the control would fault out due to under-voltage if I tried to start the spindle in high gear at the same time as doing a rapid traverse on all three axes at once. I learned to insert a G04 F1.0 pause after every spindle start in my G-code. I stopped having to do that after I got my PhasePerfect. You should have lots of money leftover for a PP since you opted for a used Fadal over a brand-spankin'-new Haas. :)

You are quite right! Yet suddenly I’m feeling really stingy about the money I saved. :D
 
Better pictures:

51723007688_a3487b3d71_z.jpg
[/url]IMG_1954 by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]

51723634330_e41483f080_z.jpg
[/url]IMG_1988 by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
I couldn't resist, and hooked it up to my "other" RPC to see if it lights up. Hey, I can do jog mode...big discovery!:D:o

Yes, I imagine using the jog function to actually chew metal probably isn't a good idea. I just had to. :crazy: :dunce:

Boy do I have MUCH TO LEARN.:reading::reading::typing::typing::crazy:

I'm really happy with the pile of tooling, too!


51723663255_8dfb734d66_z.jpg
[/url]IMG_2010 by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]




51723658920_a359147dcf_c.jpg
[/url]IMG_1993 by crh2765, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
I have two of those. I use them all day everyday. Nice little machines. Only thing to watch for is the chips don't clear off the way covers in the back. Have fun. Fadal controls are super easy to learn and posts are readily available.
 
Yesterday I crashed the mill.

TWICE.

Now my new Kurt vise has TWO scars on the top of the moving jaw. And some nice scoring on the nut face of my extended ER16 collet holder. Straight down crash even shoved the shank of the 1/4 carbide end mill up into the body of the holder so hard that the ER16 holder now has a custom "upper shank alignment & support dimple" inside. :wall:

Humbling. I've NEVER milled any of my other vises, nor the tables of any of the manual machines. And me, Mr. Careful, has already signed my signature on the new vise. Don't bring up the possibilities of damage to the spindle, etc.! :sulk:

ALSO: DON'T lift your 2016L the way my picture shows! Use a lifting bar like the manual shows or lift from the side with tines that will fit into the cast base slots. I was only moving the mill for better alignment on the truck. Base is WAY too narrow to lift from the front with tines under it. That thing would have tipped over sideways if a grasshopper landed on it. I never dropped it but that is a BAD idea and not how I actually unloaded the mill.

My stupid crashes were because I typed G54 instead of G55, telling tool#2 to follow the fixture setting for tool#1. T2 is 3 INCHES LONGER that T1! :bawling:

Humbling.
 
You're not the only one...
Just drove a 3/8 carbide straight up into the er collet, course both are shot.
Simple mistake cost $100

I feel a little better ... my offset was only about an inch off.....and i had a fast hand on the Emg button....:D
 
I was so sure I was the E-stop king. Not this time :cryin:

Maybe I should avoid rapids for now... ESPECIALLY since I'm still just becoming familiar with CNC.
 
Thanks for the help and advice. I'm just getting my feet wet with conversational g-code and the Fadal control. I'm also writing VERY simple G-code programs and practicing with MDI mode. So much more challenging than the manual machining I'm used to, but I'm getting little glimmers of hope when I see how quickly and accurately it can do something that would take hours and hours on a manual mill.
 
My stupid crashes were because I typed G54 instead of G55, telling tool#2 to follow the fixture setting for tool#1. T2 is 3 INCHES LONGER that T1! :bawling:

Humbling.

You should be using the tool offsets for different tools (H1,H2 etc etc) rather than G54/G55 etc. Other wise your going to run out of offsets before you run out of tools.

There's a utility in the control to make setting tools quickly. I don't use it but most do.
 
Just a suggestion- ANYTIME you run a new program: 1: set your rapids to 25% 2: Add in a +3" Z fixture offset. Then run your program. At least now you have fighting chance of hitting the feed hold or big red button if something is wrong.
 
I second the suggestion about adding 3” or more to the Z offset and dry run the program. Another thing I did when first learning - tape a black sharpie to your tool holder and tape a piece of cardboard to the table. Practice writing programs that draw the tool path on the cardboard with a marker. Spindle off of course. If you screw up you don’t risk damaging the machine. Also, use Slide Hold instead of Estop.
 
You should be using the tool offsets for different tools (H1,H2 etc etc) rather than G54/G55 etc. Other wise your going to run out of offsets before you run out of tools.

There's a utility in the control to make setting tools quickly. I don't use it but most do.

Thank you, I will learn how to do that!
 








 
Back
Top