OH MY DAMN BOSS!!!

I come into work today...
All excited about the insert drill im bidding on... so i tell my boss about it... He looks at me with a funny look... Gets up, opens up a large metal drawer... and pulls out the EXACT SAME THING IM BIDDING ON!!! DAMN IT!!!

He hands it to me and says, Here you go... its yours... HAHAHAHAHaha

I asked him why he didnt give it to me before...
He said, " i tried to get the other guys to use it, and they just dont understand how its going to work... They are used to normal drills and they will not use it no matter what... so i gave up... "

Then i ROLLED MY EYES and said... im not them...
Gimmie that thing!!! I iz gonna make it work!!!
He smiled... and said "GOOD"

Also my new kenemetal Cut off tool showed up today... so im really happy...

Got 2 new tools today...

Anyway...

My question is...

The guys in my shop thing its really stupid to try and use that drill on my machine... they say i dont have enough power... and the spindel will stop...

The drill is 1.470 dia... and takes 2 gold colored inserts... its got a 1.250 shank and its 4 inches LOC...

I tested my machine to see if it had a high and low gear... I tried m42 and m41... nothing happened... do i have gears ? or are some lathes one speed ? How can i get more torque out of my 15 hp motor ?

Also... I did a test...
I was trying to see how low of a feed rate i could get... I was abble to do a G97 S200 and
F.0001, and it worked... .0001 per revolution...
or 10 revolutions per .001 so its SUPER SLOW!!!
If i wanted to test my machine on some soft steel, like 1018, would this be safe ?

Can someone help me with finding a different gear ? and if i dont have one, can you help me with this so i dont blow up my lathe please!!!

I know you helped me before... but that was for a 1 inch drill... now this is 1.470 insert drill... Also he had a few others as well...
A really short 1 inch LOC at 1.250 but i want to try the big one first because its longer and so the turret is farther from the chucks...

Anyway...

HELP!!!
PLEASE!!!

thanks again

15 horsepower = 11 kilowatt, try to get a catalog for the drills you've got or call your supplier and let him calculate the speeds so they dont exceed your maximum power.
I use Coroguide for the sandvik insert-drills i work with, its possible to calculate the required power with the prog.

If you dont want to know the numbers given and just start to play with your drill i would start with checking if your machine has indeed high and low gear, you can test it by switching m42 and m41, then call a tool and give :
G50 S5000;
G96 S300 M03;

jog your tool to the center , if your spindle stalls at 1000 or 1500 rpm approx your know it has low gear (given that your max speed is normally higher then 1500)

Now for the drill i would start at 1200 RPM and .0025 feed , higher the feed to .0035 and 1500 RPM if your spindle doesnt stop.

I use those numbers daily with sandvik drills of that diameter.

Make sure your coolant runs trough the holes of the drill only ,a bit leakage is allowed but you need as much presure as you can get.

1018 is good to start with.

Good luck, Yosh

/edit/
I just checked the online coroguide at http://www.coroguide.com/ , i got this:

material 1019 hardness 115 HB
dril dia 1.4 inch
hole dept 3.9 inch

cutting speed 669feet/min 1755 RPM

0.004 Inch/R 7 inch/min
33 sec a hole

Needs 12 HP

Solar,
My Haas lathe is only 15 horsepower with no gears. I wouldn't even hesitate for 1 second to try that drill. You won't blow up your lathe. Just try it with a slow feed rate,(maybe .002 per rev.) and the see how it handles it. I know that you will have no problems with it.

thanks for the info X ...
if .004 per rev needs 12hp
then if i drill at .002 will that be 6 hp ?
or is there another multiple ?

Also thanks for the tip on checking spindel gears...

So i G50 S5000
then G96 S300
Slowly bring X to 0.0 and see if the spindel can max out at 5,000 and if it tops off at 1,500 or so, then i changed to the low gear....

Gotcha!!!

thanks

Make sure your coolant runs trough the holes of the drill only

Click to expand...

it is also good to spray coolant on the drill body to keep it from heating up due to rubbing the sides of the hole. especially in stainless.

If ya dont mind me asking, what is the one you've been bidding on?

-Jacob

its a drill...
with 2 inserts
about 3 7/8 loc
with 1.312 dia...
with coolent through
Is that what you mean ?
or do you want a link to the bid ?

If the coolent runs through the entire drill...
then its picking up heat from the entire body...
if the bods gets hot, that heat will get picked up by the coolent and shot out the front...

right ?

link to drill

If the coolent runs through the entire drill...then its picking up heat from the entire body...

Click to expand...

Nah, it doesn't work that way. The coolant passages are small in relation to the mass of the drill body, so there's not enough surface area to transfer any significant amount of heat to the coolant as it passes thru.

Also, if you program G50S5000, and move the tool to X=0, your spindle is going to max out. In fact, it would max out even if you programmed G96S10, since there's no surface speed at X0. I'm not totally clear whether the above post referred to checking for the existence of multiple gears or what, but just make sure you program the drill speed in G97.

As far as the existence of multiple gears in the headstock is concerned, if your lathe has them then there should be some buttons on the control panel for engaging the various gears manually. If the control has a tach on it, there should be separate speed ranges shown for the various gears. If theres a tach but it only has one range, then chances are the headstock is not geared.

nevermind

the one i have posted is only 2.75" loc

i thought you might be bidding on my stuff

-Jacob

I don't know if this rule applies to all insert drills or not, but the Kennametal/Hertel "Fix perfect" drill will drill oversize if you set it a bit offcenter. Naturally, you must set the drill up in the turret so that the outermost insert is on a radial centerline with the spindle. This particular drill style does not have a pilot drill in the end of it, so this is okay.

I do the trial cut about 1/8" inch deep with the handwheel, then back out and stop the spindle to measure the hole diameter. This can tell you if you are actually drilling a hole that is too small for the body of the drill to fit. Then, adjust the offset to make sure it drills on or oversize a bit. Oversize is better to ensure some body clearance, although the inserts should take care of that.

Edit; BTW, make sure that your chuck is shielded, because when the drill breaks through the back of the part, a high speed chuck will fling that little breakout slug at 53.52 miles per hour. It could really hurt somebody.

Don't worry - you won't blow up your lathe. Course', I'm saying that with about a hundred miles between me and you! (In LA for the weekend)

Watch the spindle load indicator; if it goes into the red, back off your speed. If it still goes into the red, you may have exceeded your capacity - but I don't think you will; an inch an a half or so is not that big. Worst thing that will happen is you will blow a fuse or two - spindle stalls (which promptly causes a major current draw, which in turn pops the fuse), servos over-torque, safety clutches pop, and everything stops.

Oh, and everybody in the shop stares at you cuz' you made a bad noise...

instead of using g97 setup the drill like a bore bar and use g96 and drill at X1.47. now when you want to bore with the drill you have the correct offset.

it is also good to spray coolant on the drill body to keep it from heating up due to rubbing the sides of the hole. especially in stainless.

Click to expand...

Pi,
I heard this is a bad practice. The chips that are flushing out of the hole, tend to get pushed back in if you have coolant spraying on the drill body.

not at all. you dont have enough pressure to push chips back in. you just want enough coolant to keep th shank cool. when the drill blows through the part there will be no coolant blowing back. it is real easy to weld drills and parts together if they aren't kept cool.

thanks everyone...

this is what im bidding on...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7520442710&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

i will take it easy on my first few passes...

my tachometer only shows 1 range... and there are no buttons onmy control to manually switch gears, so i guess i dont have gears darn it!!!
oh well...

i will try to keep my drill as cool as possible...
my machine does not make LOTS of coolent pressure... its enough to shoot coolent out the front 2 holes of the drill about 3 feet... but thats about it...

i will keep track of temps on the drill with my IR temp meter...

thanks again...

PS : if im lucky i will test run the drill monday!!!

Im acctually looking forward to the weekend being over... wierd huh ?

Good idea about the drill offset and using CSS Pi.

Solar,
Tell your boss to get ready to spend some money. Because once you try this drill, you will not want to go back to a regular drill. One word of caution I don't think anyone has mentioned yet. If this drill is drilling a thru hole, it will produce a slug out the back of the part. This is normal but that slug can be propelled from the rotation of the chuck at a high rate of speed. So don't open the door during operation to stick your head in there for any reason. A lot of people do this to hear how good or bad it's cutting, but just keep that door closed until it's done.

yup. i used to blast these slugs out on the new mazaks with the new glass doors. 1 out of 10 slugs would hit the glass and shatter them. mazak did not believe this until they came out and saw it for themselves on a new piece of glass.