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Okuma ES-L8 MPS-10 24 Volt Fault

swarfmeister

Aluminum
Joined
Aug 29, 2017
So,

New to us Okuma ES L8 Lathe. Built 2000, OSP-U10L Control. Saw it run in the previous owner's shop prior to purchase. Control wired 220V 3Phase.

Got it in, hooked up air and wiring (actual voltage here is 236 well balanced between phases). Everything in the control comes up nominal except the MPS10 Power Supply unit. All voltages check well within the acceptable range, but I'm getting a 24 Volt Fault LED on the front, which means the control doesn't boot up.

Causes according to the manual: 1. Over Voltage Of Input > 253 Volts (Input voltages check out at 236 on the leads going into the unit. 2. Over Current of Output. 3. Over Voltage of Output

Since none of these conditions appear to be happening, could there be something else going on? Any Okuma vets run into something like this before?
 
Yes. Actually was on the phone earlier with a service tech, and he said that despite the controls being set up for 220, Okuma dials them in at 208 so the + or - 10 percent rule isn't necessarily in force here. According to him anything from 230V up things can start to get strange. Suggested getting a transformer to bring the voltage down. I know on an Okuma Cadet I got going in another shop several years ago it had a nice multi-tap mounted on the back of the machine that you could set for just about anything from 208 to 575.
 
I have the exact same lathe, bought new in 2000. If I can help with anything, I'd be happy to.
Unfortunately I can't help with this problem.

Installation calls for a separate ground, not a common ground. Mine has its own ground rod right behind the machine. Don't know if this would be causing your problems.
 
Yes. Actually was on the phone earlier with a service tech, and he said that despite the controls being set up for 220, Okuma dials them in at 208 so the + or - 10 percent rule isn't necessarily in force here. According to him anything from 230V up things can start to get strange. Suggested getting a transformer to bring the voltage down. I know on an Okuma Cadet I got going in another shop several years ago it had a nice multi-tap mounted on the back of the machine that you could set for just about anything from 208 to 575.

My next suggestion was going to be a stepdown transformer. Our Genos Mills run around 211V and no issues.
 
Okay, Got the transformer in late yesterday and adjusted the taps so we were getting 211 approx. and she booted right up. Now getting Error 1725 Alarm A Chuck LS-SOL mismatch. Ever see that one?
 
Okay, Got the transformer in late yesterday and adjusted the taps so we were getting 211 approx. and she booted right up. Now getting Error 1725 Alarm A Chuck LS-SOL mismatch. Ever see that one?

Check phase. If you are phased backwards the control will come up but the hydraulics will all be backwards and not create pressure, which could mess up what you are seeing. Chances are there is more than one error active you just can't see the rest. I believe that you would have the machine diagnostics page. When in Manual hit display change, arrow over, select display all. Then scroll down to the machine diagnostics. I know our E100 control has that. Not sure if the U10 would. Having multiple issues may point you towards something obvious.
 
On the back of the draw tube there are 2 prox switches. One should be lit at chuck unclamp. The other should be lit for chuck unclamp. Check those.
 
I can cycle the chuck with the foot pedal but only when I'm booted up prior to the error message. The indicator lights on the control panel indicate the proper state, open or closed, which I assume is what the prox switches are there to confirm. One lights up (clamped) and the other (unclamped) doesn't seem to, but I was assuming since the indicator lights change state that it was working. Unless the proxes are just a double check and the change in state for the indicators is generated when the solenoid state is changed? As far as it being out of phase, the chuck is showing pressure on the gage so I'm assuming it's right?
 
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The prox switches are what provide the signal to the control that the move actually occurred.

If you the unclamp prox isn't lighting up, you need to put your chuck in the unclamped state, loosen the unclamp prox switch, and wiggle it around until it's lit up, then tighten it, and cycle the chuck a few times to make sure the placement is good.
 
The unclamp light should come on and clamp should go off. The prox switches are adjustable. The one on the left (from back off machine) is for unclamp I think.
Loosen the bracket and slide it til the unclamp light is on.
Make sure the other prox is not on at the same time.
 
Okay, according to the manual as best I can tell the prox switches are going on and off correctly assuming that I'm set up for OD chucking, but since the error won't clear, it could be that I'm set up for ID chucking. How do I change this? i.e. if I reverse the prox positions, the error clears so I'm pretty sure it's looking for ID chucking.
 
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Okay, according to the manual as best I can tell the prox switches are going on and off correctly assuming that I'm set up for OD chucking, but since the error won't clear, it could be that I'm set up for ID chucking. How do I change this? i.e. if I reverse the prox positions, the error clears so I'm pretty sure it's looking for ID chucking.

In the parameter pages, there is a section for Chuck/Chucking. On that page there should be a 1 or a 0 to set it for ID/OD clamping.
 
Indeed, the operations manual tells me to change this parameter, but doesn't indicate how to find it. Pressing the parameter button on the machine pulls up a single page with the software limits on it. Page forward and back doesn't do anything, nor does attempting to use the search function.
 
That was just a little counter-intuitive, but I did find it! Many thanks. I'm used to Fanuc machines and this guy just has a few different wrinkles. I appreciate the help!


Once you get to parameter page you have to use the F keys (below the screen) to page thru the parameters.
 
Okuma is a bit different than Fanuc. If you can't find the answer in the manuals, keep posting here.
I'll help whenever I can. Have fun!
 








 
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