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cg_slotcars

Plastic
Joined
Mar 4, 2019
Hello

I have a quick question (because what I'm doing doesn't seem to work!)

I'm turning small wheels for model cars out of 6061t6. Picture to something similar below..... I want to make half a dozen at a time - so my first move was to put the bar in a mill and create 6 holes that will later be tapped for set screws.

I put the bar in my lathe and turn the outside shape - no problems although it took me a while to get the setup rigid...

I have a gang tool post I put on the lathe that has a drill, a cutoff blade and a boring bit (Kaiser thinbit) It's flat faced - about .1 wide with a .007 radius at either corner on it to hog out the inside of the wheel.

Everything works great until the boring meets the hole for the setscrew - then it starts to vibrate violently! Most of the failures were breaking off the inside hub on the left of the picture. I went back and made sure everything was still rigid tried again and I broke the bit holder...(not the bit!)

So the first question is - Should it be fine to traverse through a hole when boring? If the bit is grabbing the edge of the hole - should I use a larger radius - maybe grind some relief behind the boring bit(?). I could drill it after? Whats the preferred way to do this?

Thank you!


CBD insert wheel300.jpg
 
An interrupted cut will always vibrate more than a continuous one.

But you don't need a boring bar to make your inside feature (well, you do, until the hub, but that's not where the problem comes up.)

You need a face groover. They look similar but they're not interchangeable. Face groovers are a lot more rigid and have a lot less flexible operating parameters.

Something off this page will work and not blow up.

Face Grooving Products

*edit*
He's using the wrong tool: he's face grooving full width with a boring bar and barely getting away with it until the interruption, then it blows up. That's be the same whether his machine is a Sherline or an Integrex.
 
Why not do the lathe work first, then the mill work? Sometimes interrupted cuts are hard on tooling.
 
FWIW ~ I'm using a face grooving tool - but I don't run it across the face. I make 3 plunges to the hub depth, then try to go deeper on the edge of the hub - then again for the inner diameter of the wheel.

Thank you for the responses..... I have followed this board as a lurker for a while and I find people here to be extremely knowledgeable... Ive always skipped over the posts that started with "read the guidelines" - but now I know....looks like I've broken 2-3 rules right out of the gate and had the H word lobbed at me so I will move on. I appreciate everyone's time and will go back to lurker!
Interrupted Cut - I will search it out for a remedy or bail out on drilling first. Thanks!
 
FWIW ~ I'm using a face grooving tool - but I don't run it across the face. I make 3 plunges to the hub depth, then try to go deeper on the edge of the hub - then again for the inner diameter of the wheel.

Thank you for the responses..... I have followed this board as a lurker for a while and I find people here to be extremely knowledgeable... Ive always skipped over the posts that started with "read the guidelines" - but now I know....looks like I've broken 2-3 rules right out of the gate and had the H word lobbed at me so I will move on. I appreciate everyone's time and will go back to lurker!
Interrupted Cut - I will search it out for a remedy or bail out on drilling first. Thanks!

Don't get too discouraged.

I wasn't going to say anything about Vancbiker's comment, but I have made a couple of hundred wheels for RC car parts suppliers over the years. And while I have been running my business for 40 years, I sometimes feel like it must be some sort of hobby affair because it seems to never be on the plus side of the ledger.
 
I wasn't going to say anything about Vancbiker's comment, but I have made a couple of hundred wheels for RC car parts suppliers over the years. ....

Re-read my post. I did not say his parts, nor his question, were not appropriate for this forum, just the machines. Since those are what he has to make his parts, the suggestion to talk with folks using similar machines was made. Heck, almost everything I make is used in hobby or recreational pursuits.
 
I had done work for a RC car part guy for 10 years and then he just up and went to China without warning. It was in the middle of the biggest dollar volume year I ever did with him. Strange thing he never complained about the prices, ordered 95% of what I quoted, most stuff repeated and I probably did a couple jobs every month for him.
 
As for the OP, ask your questions just leave out the mention of any machine considered to be hobby grade. As for interrupted cuts making them on a machine that lacks rigidity is going to cause a host of problems.
 
Re-read my post. I did not say his parts, nor his question, were not appropriate for this forum, just the machines. Since those are what he has to make his parts, the suggestion to talk with folks using similar machines was made. Heck, almost everything I make is used in hobby or recreational pursuits.



I guess I misinterpreted what you posted. I certainly don't want to get on your wrong side, but I didn't, and still don't see any reference to the machine the OP is using other than a gang style tool post.
 
Don't get too discouraged.

I wasn't going to say anything about Vancbiker's comment, but I have made a couple of hundred wheels for RC car parts suppliers over the years. And while I have been running my business for 40 years, I sometimes feel like it must be some sort of hobby affair because it seems to never be on the plus side of the ledger.

Who cares? We don't cater to Hobbyists anyway, regardless of the Machinery. Not saying it's against the rules, its just not our forte. Stupid questions, with good advice, met with arguments from OPs. It's annoying.

R
 
Who cares? We don't cater to Hobbyists anyway, regardless of the Machinery. Not saying it's against the rules, its just not our forte. Stupid questions, with good advice, met with arguments from OPs. It's annoying.

R

yeah stupid questions from the hobby guys are wayyyy different than the stupid comments from the "professionals". :rolleyes5:
 
...We don't cater to Hobbyists anyway, regardless of the Machinery.

That feels like a broadside! ;) I'm a hobbyist with decent machinery. Can I be catered to once in a while???

Good thing I call this CNC stuff a hobby. One is supposed to pay money for their hobbies, not make money from them. I'm doing an excellent job doing what I'm supposed to do.
 
yeah stupid questions from the hobby guys are wayyyy different than the stupid comments from the "professionals". :rolleyes5:

The difference is, you're not supposed to respond to stupid comments.....;)

As I stated it isn't in the guidelines, but the majority (meaning not Vanvouver) are asses who get their feelings hurt. It's a waste of time.
 
I guess I misinterpreted what you posted. I certainly don't want to get on your wrong side, but I didn't, and still don't see any reference to the machine the OP is using other than a gang style tool post.

No worries. Before he edited the first post, he noted he was running these on Sherline lathe and mill. I just wanted him to edit out the machines out so the thread could maybe be helpful.

His troubles are totally about the equipment though. Lack of rigidity is the entire problem. Any decent machine could easily bore or face groove those parts despite the cross-hole being drilled before turning.
 








 
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