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Renishaw probe tip, ceramic or steel?

Racecar

Plastic
Joined
Mar 12, 2015
Location
Northwest
HAAS VF2. I use my Renishaw probe every day, every job, would not want to be without it.
About once a year, I send the probe in an unexpected direction, and break off the tip :angry:
I have been using ceramic tips, they snap right off.


I see that the stainless shaft styli are less money. Anyone have experience with these?
If it crashes into the work, will it bend, or will it cause damage the probe head?

I'm thinking of buying several replacements, probably should stick with ceramic?

Thanks,
 
Honestly, if you cash it that much, I would stick with ceramic, that is what it is for, to break. My probe is carbide shank, but tiny, about 2mm dia. I think ceramic is better to keep the heat out of it as well..
 
The stainless tube is much harder to break / bend than the ceramic. Much better to stick with the safer ceramic. The cost of a probe body is much more than you could save with the price difference.
 
Like Red and Fidia said. Stick with the ceramic. The probe body is going to cost over $3k w/out a core and over $1500 with core.
 
If you are crashing probes, it sounds like you are not using a cad/cam or a 3rd party software such as Renish Productivity+ to create your probing programs. With software you will have the same peace of mind as you would when programming collision free toolpaths. Even if you don't use CAM software you can still get a stand alone probe software. I totally recommend it if you have room in your budget because probe heads are delicate and expensive so you don't want to abuse them at all.

If your Haas has the Renishaw macros and you are creating your probe programs by hand, you can use protected moves to position the probe. I think the macro is 9810; I hope this helps...
 
If you are crashing probes, it sounds like you are not using a cad/cam or a 3rd party software such as Renish Productivity+ to create your probing programs. With software you will have the same peace of mind as you would when programming collision free toolpaths. Even if you don't use CAM software you can still get a stand alone probe software. I totally recommend it if you have room in your budget because probe heads are delicate and expensive so you don't want to abuse them at all.

If your Haas has the Renishaw macros and you are creating your probe programs by hand, you can use protected moves to position the probe. I think the macro is 9810; I hope this helps...

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99.999% of time i crash probe its cause i put a part in a vise backwards. no money cad cam etc is going to prevent a mistake.
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you never put part in backwards ? its like breaking taps the more holes you tap the higher the chance you will break a tap eventually
 
I have an older Renishaw MP 11 probe with a set of steel tips. They will not break if crashed. To prevent damage to the probe Renshaw sells a special linkage that attatched to the probe body then the metal tip is screwed to. That link is designed to break if the probe is crashed...

I would just stick with what you have ...

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
 
I used to run the fuse links on 150mm ceramic probes, saved a lot of broken stili over the years, they can have a small effect on trigger accuracy, but nothing that most of us or our machines would notice.
 
Renishaw_Probe_Sticker_large.JPG
 
Thanks guys,
That's what I expected to hear, stick with the ceramic, it's a safe choice.
Compared to the price of the head, it's better to be safe than to repair the head unit.

This is my third broken one in the first two years of owning this mill, and the first two were in the first 6 months, so I think I am getting better. With one off parts, and constant setups, there is always a way to break something. LN
 
Breaking the pro-tip happens, we are only human! I actually saved a bunch of probe stylists, the ceramic ones by Super glowing a .120 something pin in between the 2 broken pieces. That actually lengthened the stylist for parts with those deep, hard to get at places as well saving a bunch of money over the years and the good thing is if I messed up and crashed it it would break just like it would be for just at a different spot and typically after that it was unrepairable haha but in a pinch if you only have one and you have two separate pieces now you can simply superglue a pin in between the two back together. That got me out of a couple of jams until the new one came in.

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