Resetting X0 on Fanuc Lathe
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    Default Resetting X0 on Fanuc Lathe

    I just took the time to dial in a drill holder on my KIA SKT21LMS (0i-TB) and I am trying to get the machine X0 to coincide with the mechanical X0.

    I may be going about this wrong, but from what I understand I need to adjust the grid shift for X.

    I started with a value of 2566, and I am out -.0108". In mm that is -.2743, and since the lathe is in diameter mode that's actually -.1371mm. So I need an offset of (2566-1371)=1195, correct?

    When I put that in though, I get an overtravel +X message before it finished the zero return.

    Is there any way around this in software or do I need to go move the switch dogs around and start over?

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    If you index to another turret position and clock that, is it out the same amount?
    I'd clock 4 positions - 0, 90degree, 180degree and 270 degree just to see.
    If they are all out the same amount, praise the lord and adjust your grid shift.
    If they're probably not, then I'd just adjust it in the individual tool wear table.

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    With machine powered down, hold in the P & Cancel buttons. Turn the machine on and stay on those keys until the machine is done starting. Try to reference, If that wont work get your parameter book out and look up the stored stroke settings. Write the original value down and put 99999999 in, and reference the machine. Put the original value back in.

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    Is the motor directly connected to the screw or timing belt drive? If belt drive and other than 1:1 ratio you have to take that into account.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ifixcnc View Post
    With machine powered down, hold in the P & Cancel buttons. Turn the machine on and stay on those keys until the machine is done starting. Try to reference, If that wont work get your parameter book out and look up the stored stroke settings. Write the original value down and put 99999999 in, and reference the machine. Put the original value back in.
    Great minds think alike. Even before seeing your post, I looked up the exact alarm I was getting (500) and it was the software OT. Remembered the P+Can button combo to ignore software limits, and we're back in business and within a couple tenths concentricity on my drill/boring holders.

    Hopefully that will eliminate the pips on facing cuts and get my radial live tools on center instead of maxing out their adjustment.
    For critical drills and such I will of course still dial them in individually, but previously it seemed like I was way out.... at least .01" off center in the Y direction, and without a Y axis to comp that out with.

    Thanks all, probably could have gone without starting the thread if I had used my brain for another 20mins. Oh well, it'll hopefully help someone else down the road (or me, when I google the same problem in a year or something )

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    Quote Originally Posted by npolanosky View Post
    Great minds think alike. Even before seeing your post, I looked up the exact alarm I was getting (500) and it was the software OT. Remembered the P+Can button combo to ignore software limits, and we're back in business and within a couple tenths concentricity on my drill/boring holders.

    Hopefully that will eliminate the pips on facing cuts and get my radial live tools on center instead of maxing out their adjustment.
    For critical drills and such I will of course still dial them in individually, but previously it seemed like I was way out.... at least .01" off center in the Y direction, and without a Y axis to comp that out with.

    Thanks all, probably could have gone without starting the thread if I had used my brain for another 20mins. Oh well, it'll hopefully help someone else down the road (or me, when I google the same problem in a year or something )

    How doo you think that what you just did here will have any effect on your Y position?


    ---------------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

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    The original problem I was fixing was tools being off-center by quite a bit.
    Previous to this post, I loosened the bolts on the turret face and indicated the VDI pockets concentric with the spindle. It was high (or low to the tool's perspective) prior to this, as if it was crashed in the past and slipped. I am the second owner and the alignment pins were gone probably a decade before I bought this thing, so it's just 6x bolts on the face holding everything in place.

    By doing this though, the X position moved a smidge as well which is what I was trying to correct here. It seems that I'm pretty darn close now, and dialing in a drill should be a few thou of adjustment tops.

    Apologies if that was not clear, I'm doing far too much at once and may not be completely explaining my thought processes and assumptions.

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    Well, for starters, those pins should NOT be in the turret while it's running in the firth place.
    Those holes are there to help tweak it back in after a crash.
    NOT to hold it from moving during a crash.

    Too much rigidity in a crash can be a bad thing!

    As for dialing in the drill, I just run floating reamer holders and let you guys $pend all the time chasing TIR on a lathe.


    ---------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post
    Well, for starters, those pins should NOT be in the turret while it's running in the firth place.
    Those holes are there to help tweak it back in after a crash.
    NOT to hold it from moving during a crash.
    Today I learned! The korean translated manual was not very clear on this (or anything else for that matter -_- ).

    If I bump it in the future I'll try the pins first, although the entire process to get it straightened back out with ye olde indicator didn't take long in the first place.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ox View Post

    As for dialing in the drill, I just run floating reamer holders and let you guys $pend all the time chasing TIR on a lathe.


    ---------------

    Think Snow Eh!
    Ox
    I turned a couple of back ends and bolted to the face a sloppy fit ER25 collet head. Then it was quick and easy to dial in the drill (holder) for that pot number. Which usually stayed in that pot position.
    Edit - here's a pic. I think it may even have been one of your posts back in the day which enlightened me to do it!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails capture.jpg  


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