resurfacing cylinder heads - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leecho View Post
    hey thanks not only for debunking the myth, which was my hunch, automechanics have lots of em, and all the good advice(i know its gonna b hard with lotsa variables), but thanks even more for "As noted you are in the wrong place for this kind of thing. --- I started young like you so take this to heart." Cool words.
    Yeah if i would have known that this site is unfriendly to new guys, as if i was gonna resurface THEIR cylinder heads and f it up, well, there's alot more sites out there. I'll check out speedtalk.
    Cool story bro

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Milland View Post
    Thanks for that info. Could I get a clarification or two? When you say head it tilted two, do you mean two thousandths from one side of the 12" cutter to the other? Can't be two degrees, that would cup the surface too much (wouldn't it??).

    And the "thirty second" - that's the spindle being raised after a pass to ensure no chance of a dwell cut? That must be due to not quite enough travel to go fully off the head on either side with a longer head?
    Two thousandths yes I’m tired, and yes you can generate a large cup if more. Have experimented with tilt, always have a dip. My theory is there is a gasket for that. Correct on the overrun on longer parts.

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  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leecho View Post
    thanks everyone for not answering the question about lines. looks like a lot of u missed some other stuff, such as the keywords "new", "learn", "practicing"...
    Maybe nobody could fucking understand you because you only spelled out every 5th word. You must have so much free time by misspelling words like "be", "because", "money", "before", and "for", that you could probably easily learn all this shit on your own by doing a bit of reading.

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  6. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by D Nelson View Post
    Perfect
    Yeah, sometimes you just have to shake your head and walk away...

  7. #25
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    car mechanics tend to be pretty rough characters,and when they refit a head and the cars back a week later with milky oil......then you better take a holiday.....new hard shim gaskets are unforgiving of any deviation in flatness or finish..........if your gettin a lot of flathead Dodge and blue flame Chev work,then I stand corrected.

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  9. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leecho View Post
    Yeah if i would have known that this site is unfriendly to new guys, as if i was gonna resurface THEIR cylinder heads and f it up, well, there's alot more sites out there. I'll check out speedtalk.
    I have no idea where this comes from. The Millenial generation is some squarely sensitive folks. If you guys would have come up the way some of us came up you would have cut your own head off with Pruning shears.

    Rolf (my initiator) would have had zero time to even respond to your question, let alone steer you in the right direction (which is what you are getting). You haven't even had the experience of another man's saliva on your face, before you FINISH the job, and you are getting sensitive. AHHH the good old days.

    R

    BTW this is not texting, please write your words. "Imuumstrb8tr" doesn't make sense here.

  10. #27
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    Another thread crying for a moderator's touch right about post #3......

  11. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leecho View Post
    ...im getting a jet jmd-40gh in about a month as a step up from my grizzly mini milldrill. im gonna b practicing a lot b4 doing it for $, but if smaller mills are not reliable i will hope it works but in case it doesnt i wont open a business betting on the jet.
    The machine you are getting is not a milling machine. It's a drill press with an R-8 taper and a moveable table. It's good for drilling holes, in small objects, fairly close to where they are supposed to go.

    That's all it's good for, and the manufacturer's claim that it can handle a 3/4" end mill or a 4" face mill is a fantasy.

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  13. #29
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    Honestly you don't want to grind, its not because grinding won't get you flat enough or any mythical lines, i can make such a surface at least 10x flatter (1-2 TENTHS OF A THOU FLAT OVER A SMALLER 4CYLINDER SIZED HEAD ) than the above posters with there wonky heads even with a 1/2" wide grinding wheel. I can do that all day every day with not even watching the grinder do it. Surface grinders excell at very flat high quality surface finishing, that said thats not what your jet is, thats a mill and a crappy one at that if you have not bought it yet, don't find something better.

    The problem with a ground finish is its too smooth, it won't grip the gasket. gaskets work because the two surfaces there trapped between has enough roughness to hold them still yet not so much roughness they leak. Hence why surface profile results are often what truly matters the most. its also why the old sandpaper on a flat surface works so well too! Which is what i then have to do if i grind a head to get enough tooth for the gaskets to work well.

    Yes i have ground a few heads, yes it is prescice enough to easily stand there and look at how uneven the OEM's head machining is as you do a couple of passes to bring things back to flat. But its fundamentally the wrong way to go for anything but your own stuff or out of hours emergency work.

    That said i don't and won't do head type work, theirs just no money in it and way too much bullshit and competition to even really attempt anything but the truly odd ball stuff on typical machine tools. Setups alone kill your profit.

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  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by adama View Post
    ...The problem with a ground finish is its too smooth, it won't grip the gasket. gaskets work because the two surfaces there trapped between has enough roughness to hold them still yet not so much roughness they leak.
    Ha, that reminds me of a job I did back in the 70s in my first machine shop job. Was turning some ~20" diameter cast stainless steam flanges for the Navy. Drawing had a 500 finish callout on the flange face. I had been taught that a finish callout meant the value or better. So I cut them to about a 125 finish. Of course the lot got rejected for being too smooth. Had to rechuck them and indicate them in and skim the face to the 500 finish.

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  17. #31
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    I have been out of the automotive machining for some time, but grinding cast iron heads in multiple passes was the way to do it right 20 years ago, and I don't remember it ever leaving lines. Seems like most of the old head/block surface grinders are now running CBN, I thought it was just for faster cuts. If you want to resurface lawnmower engine heads a mill might handle that, but anything larger, and if you want to do quality work, will require a real surfacing machine.

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    One of my guys used my BP to surface some cast iron 4 banger heads. Using a 6" face mill cutter did the job . Not near as nice as a proper Kwicki or Van Norman, but usable. The BP was most unhappy doing it though.

    But setup is a real PITA even with a square profile head, an angle head v6-8 would need some fixturing that would not be worthwhile for just a few heads. IMO

  19. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leecho View Post
    thanks everyone for not answering the question about lines. looks like a lot of u missed some other stuff, such as the keywords "new", "learn", "practicing"...
    It seems that you missed the part about being a "newbie" in the midst of a whole bunch of "old heads" who learned a lot of what
    they know in the school of hard knocks. The very best way for a "beginner" to learn on this forum is to listen......very carefully.
    Posting in (almost) gibberish english and having an attitude from the start will not win you any friends here. On the other hand, if
    you show some respect and listen carefully you will be forever rewarded with the collective knowledge of a lot of very smart folks...

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  21. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Another thread crying for a moderator's touch right about post #3......
    IIRC Thermite mentioned creating some lines of code to "auto moderate" another forum,
    this would work nicely here.

  22. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vancbiker View Post
    Ha, that reminds me of a job I did back in the 70s in my first machine shop job. Was turning some ~20" diameter cast stainless steam flanges for the Navy. Drawing had a 500 finish callout on the flange face. I had been taught that a finish callout meant the value or better. So I cut them to about a 125 finish. Of course the lot got rejected for being too smooth. Had to rechuck them and indicate them in and skim the face to the 500 finish.
    Ahh - a phonograph finish.("What's a phonograph?")

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  24. #36
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    Seems like about once a month we need to teach some moron why a knee mill will not mill heads properly. To bad we can't have a sticky that auto links to the thousand or so threads on this subject. FWIW the "lines" are the least of his problems.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mud View Post
    Ahh - a phonograph finish.("What's a phonograph?")
    Yep! Later on we had some similar parts that had a face callout for 500 finish of concentric ridges, spiral or Phonograph not allowed.


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