Share your secret weapon! (Favorite milling tools - end mills, drills, indexable) - Page 2
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 47
  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    306
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    128

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mutiny View Post
    Yes, this exactly! All my parts are relatively long and flat and we've seen the first significant cycle time reductions in roughing since we got the machine. If you need to mill .2in of aluminum off, I'm not sure there's another tool for the Speedio that's going to do it as well as this one. So much more pleasant to listen to as well...
    FWIW, I run my 2" ripper mill in my standard 10k speedio.10krpm, 2" deep 1.8" step over @ 120IPM. Spindle load meter bounces out of green intermittently. Biggest issue is no mist eliminateor yet, and it makes a lot of that.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Alabama
    Posts
    557
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    44
    Likes (Received)
    304

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wsurfer View Post
    FWIW, I run my 2" ripper mill in my standard 10k speedio.10krpm, 2" deep 1.8" step over @ 120IPM. Spindle load meter bounces out of green intermittently. Biggest issue is no mist eliminateor yet, and it makes a lot of that.
    Are your decimals in the right spot? That’s deeper than the inserts are long. I’d pay to see that cut.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Alabama
    Posts
    557
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    44
    Likes (Received)
    304

    Default

    I’m enjoying experimenting with cermets for finishing in 4140PH. The finish in both OD turning and boring is outstanding. Insert life is longer than the carbides they replaced and cost less.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    North Carolina
    Posts
    218
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    38
    Likes (Received)
    147

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Eric U View Post
    Are your decimals in the right spot? That’s deeper than the inserts are long. I’d pay to see that cut.
    I think he meant .2" doc, which would be a reasonable cut for the 10k Speedio. I'm scared to use a cutter that big in diameter to take meaningful cuts even on Big+ BT30.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    California
    Posts
    2,160
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1726
    Likes (Received)
    1604

    Default

    What a great thread.

    Thank you all.

  6. Likes coffeetek, wheelieking71 liked this post
  7. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Ohio
    Posts
    106
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    30
    Likes (Received)
    34

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mutiny View Post
    I'm also waiting for an excuse to get the Enterprise. Currently have the wireless but I just keep it plugged in, so I might as well switch to the wired Enterprise.
    If you want the programmable buttons on the cheap, the old Space Pilot's still work with older drivers with most CAD applications and can be had for $50 on ebay. I use Rhino a lot and have to keep replacing their newer plugin that drops support for it with an older one every time it updates, but it works fine with the older plugin and driver. Other CAD packages work without issue.

    And speaking of favorite tools, Rhino is amazing CAD on the cheap (and CAM with a plugin). It's not parametric, but it's great at quickly modeling a conceptual design and modifying dumb models. I do all my prototype design work in Rhino, then when I narrow down the design I model it parametrically in another CAD package.

  8. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,621
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    991
    Likes (Received)
    1839

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by metalmadness View Post
    My distributor has the Emuge ones and they are like $150 for a 10 or 12mm barrel cutter.
    Not bad. Still expensive for such a small cutter, but less than half of what some other players are charging.

    How many flutes on the Emuges?

  9. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Country
    CANADA
    State/Province
    Ontario
    Posts
    53
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    23
    Likes (Received)
    72

    Default

    Walter DC170 drills in steel. I haven't found a better solid carbide drill for metal removal and process reliability. Expensive, but worth every penny when you are drilling 1000s of holes.

    The DC150 drills are an excellent job shop drill - good price and decent performance.

  10. Likes wheelieking71 liked this post
  11. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    North Carolina
    Posts
    218
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    38
    Likes (Received)
    147

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Orange Vise View Post
    Not bad. Still expensive for such a small cutter, but less than half of what some other players are charging.

    How many flutes on the Emuges?
    The effective radius on a lot of these is 10x-50x the cutter diameter depending on the geometry. If you go by that, it's pretty cheap for such a huge cutter.

  12. Likes empwoer liked this post
  13. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    California
    Posts
    182
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    29
    Likes (Received)
    94

    Default

    Oh, this is a great thread! Most of my favorites have already been mentioned, but...

    Kaiser FCR (BBT30-FCR25083-65). 25 mm diameter, 65mm, integral shank. For taking off a bunch of material with minimum fuss, this thing is fantastic. I really only use my face mills for finishing passes nowadays.

    Speaking of face mills: Mitsubishi ASX445 (ASX445R0306C) 3 in diameter, 6 inserts. I get really good finishes in aluminum with a wiper insert.

    OSG ADO drills. My first foray into CTS drilling, but they seem to last forever in just about any material. I keep meaning to try out against Walter's DC150 coolant-through -- I have a bunch of DC150 non-CTS and they're great too.

    Helical HPCM chamfer mills. Still the nicest chamfer mill I've found. Pick your diameter, I like the 1/4"s to get into tight spots.

    Fraisa Multicut series (XA for aluminum, XF for ferrous). Some of the nicest side wall finishes I've seen myself -- though not as good as some of the ones I've seen in other threads around here!

    I had some challenges with chip evacuation in deep pocketing applications, where a short gauge length holder and minimum tool stickout made it hard to get coolant in and chips out. I found two different solutions: Fraisa's AX-FPS roughers kick ass and are coolant-through, but they are quite expensive. The other solution is MST shrink-fit holders, the two-piece slimline versions. The coolant-through-collet models (CF) are really good at blasting chips out of pockets, and the nose isn't so thick as to get in the way. You give up some gauge length, though.

  14. Likes 2outof3, empwoer liked this post
  15. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Gilbert, AZ
    Posts
    7,264
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    9697
    Likes (Received)
    9329

    Default

    I have one. YG-1 Gold-P drills. Plain old cobalt TiN coated twist drill.
    The abuse these things will take in aluminum is unreal. And, they work great in every other material I have tried them in (mild steels to Ti).
    I don't know if its the grind? The coating? The actual drill-blank they use? Or a combination of all of it? But, they are the best I have found.
    I've tried other coated cobalt drills and not found any that will take the abuse and perform the way the Gold-P's do.
    In aluminum I run the damn things at carbide parameters, and they just drill and drill and drill.
    I have one #29 8-32 tap drill that has drilled over 80,000 .625" deep through holes. And, it is still usable!
    I swapped it out when I put that process in a different machine. But, it sits on my desk as a conversation piece.

    I was turned on to these by a fantastic tool rep when he was selling YG-1. He was actually the guy that darin (as9100d) ripped off, and the reason I will always hate him!
    Anyways, I had a pre-drill operation that was killing cycle-time on some gun rails I was making.
    I simply said "I don't care what the drill costs. Give me something that will blow through these holes!".
    He handed me a Gold-P and said "run it at 12,000rpm, 125ipm, no peck". I looked at it and I was like WTF?! Seriously?! He simply said "YEP, send it!"

    Here is a video of that drill performing that OP the next time that job came around: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRNDD7ozzg4

    Like I said, I've tried these stunts with other "similar" drills. And they just don't seem to be able to get the chips out of the hole.
    They usually end up packing chips and breaking.

  16. Likes 2outof3 liked this post
  17. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    4,402
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    13730
    Likes (Received)
    5284

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by enginuity View Post
    Walter DC170 drills in steel. I haven't found a better solid carbide drill for metal removal and process reliability. Expensive, but worth every penny when you are drilling 1000s of holes.

    The DC150 drills are an excellent job shop drill - good price and decent performance.
    If your join date wasn't 2009, I'd think you were AS9100D... That dude wouldn't shut up about those drills.

  18. Likes jephw liked this post
  19. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Texas
    Posts
    306
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    128

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mutiny View Post
    I think he meant .2" doc, which would be a reasonable cut for the 10k Speedio. I'm scared to use a cutter that big in diameter to take meaningful cuts even on Big+ BT30.
    Oops, correct, .2" deep.

  20. #34
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    2,339
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    3864
    Likes (Received)
    2890

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wheelieking71 View Post
    I have one. YG-1 Gold-P drills. Plain old cobalt TiN coated twist drill.
    The abuse these things will take in aluminum is unreal. And, they work great in every other material I have tried them in (mild steels to Ti).
    I don't know if its the grind? The coating? The actual drill-blank they use? Or a combination of all of it? But, they are the best I have found.
    I've tried other coated cobalt drills and not found any that will take the abuse and perform the way the Gold-P's do.
    In aluminum I run the damn things at carbide parameters, and they just drill and drill and drill.
    I have one #29 8-32 tap drill that has drilled over 80,000 .625" deep through holes. And, it is still usable!
    I swapped it out when I put that process in a different machine. But, it sits on my desk as a conversation piece.

    I was turned on to these by a fantastic tool rep when he was selling YG-1. He was actually the guy that darin (as9100d) ripped off, and the reason I will always hate him!
    Anyways, I had a pre-drill operation that was killing cycle-time on some gun rails I was making.
    I simply said "I don't care what the drill costs. Give me something that will blow through these holes!".
    He handed me a Gold-P and said "run it at 12,000rpm, 125ipm, no peck". I looked at it and I was like WTF?! Seriously?! He simply said "YEP, send it!"

    Here is a video of that drill performing that OP the next time that job came around: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRNDD7ozzg4

    Like I said, I've tried these stunts with other "similar" drills. And they just don't seem to be able to get the chips out of the hole.
    They usually end up packing chips and breaking.
    I watched the vid. Looks good.
    Constructive criticism / question here....is there a reason your retract is so high? If not, knock that baby down to .05" or if your gonads are feeling especially large maybe .025". There will be some cycle time savings...maybe not much unless your making a scrillion parts....but it will be visually satisfying.

  21. Likes empwoer liked this post
  22. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    2,339
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    3864
    Likes (Received)
    2890

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CG60 View Post
    I like the idea of the barrel cutters as well, does your software support that? Hypermill is the only one i know of right now that supports those type of cutters and it is a bit pricey investment just for that module, but if you do alot of deep pockets or deep wall finishing it would be well worth it with the time savings.
    Gibbs supports circle segment cutters as well. I have had no need to try it yet

  23. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Gilbert, AZ
    Posts
    7,264
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    9697
    Likes (Received)
    9329

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by toolsteel View Post
    I watched the vid. Looks good.
    Constructive criticism / question here....is there a reason your retract is so high? If not, knock that baby down to .05" or if your gonads are feeling especially large maybe .025". There will be some cycle time savings...maybe not much unless your making a scrillion parts....but it will be visually satisfying.
    The retract isn't as high as it looks. I just checked the file. It is .250" above the top of the jaw.
    A few tools jump back & forth, Front/back. So, I'm just clearing the jaws.
    Your right, I could edit the R-plane on that tool. I just never did it.
    I would say, I haven't made those in years. But, I have material for 100 sitting here! LOL

  24. Likes toolsteel liked this post
  25. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    148
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    50
    Likes (Received)
    48

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wheelieking71 View Post
    I have one. YG-1 Gold-P drills. Plain old cobalt TiN coated twist drill.
    The abuse these things will take in aluminum is unreal. And, they work great in every other material I have tried them in (mild steels to Ti).
    I don't know if its the grind? The coating? The actual drill-blank they use? Or a combination of all of it? But, they are the best I have found.
    I've tried other coated cobalt drills and not found any that will take the abuse and perform the way the Gold-P's do.
    In aluminum I run the damn things at carbide parameters, and they just drill and drill and drill.
    I have one #29 8-32 tap drill that has drilled over 80,000 .625" deep through holes. And, it is still usable!
    I swapped it out when I put that process in a different machine. But, it sits on my desk as a conversation piece.

    I was turned on to these by a fantastic tool rep when he was selling YG-1. He was actually the guy that darin (as9100d) ripped off, and the reason I will always hate him!
    Anyways, I had a pre-drill operation that was killing cycle-time on some gun rails I was making.
    I simply said "I don't care what the drill costs. Give me something that will blow through these holes!".
    He handed me a Gold-P and said "run it at 12,000rpm, 125ipm, no peck". I looked at it and I was like WTF?! Seriously?! He simply said "YEP, send it!"

    I can vouch for these drills. Doing exact feeds on a .125 drill right now.

  26. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Country
    CANADA
    State/Province
    Alberta
    Posts
    70
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    33
    Likes (Received)
    15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CG60 View Post
    I like the idea of the barrel cutters as well, does your software support that? Hypermill is the only one i know of right now that supports those type of cutters and it is a bit pricey investment just for that module, but if you do alot of deep pockets or deep wall finishing it would be well worth it with the time savings.
    Mastercam, and Esprit both support them, without a special module for them.

  27. #39
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Country
    CANADA
    State/Province
    Alberta
    Posts
    70
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    33
    Likes (Received)
    15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by enginuity View Post
    Walter DC170 drills in steel. I haven't found a better solid carbide drill for metal removal and process reliability. Expensive, but worth every penny when you are drilling 1000s of holes.

    The DC150 drills are an excellent job shop drill - good price and decent performance.
    Quote Originally Posted by TeachMePlease View Post
    If your join date wasn't 2009, I'd think you were AS9100D... That dude wouldn't shut up about those drills.

    I also think these are the best drills I've used. Amazing for multi-materials and bananas parameters.

  28. #40
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Tennessee
    Posts
    245
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    139
    Likes (Received)
    95

    Default

    Some of my favorite tools:

    YG1 HF4 high feed mill. Extremely cost effective, good performing indexable high feed mill. Inserts are like $6 apiece... c’mon.

    Kennametal Harvi I. Not even the TE. Most of our end mills are basic general purpose. But for more demanding applications we have a few Harvi I end mills that are just better. Tool life, finish, harmonics.

    YG1 Gold-P drills. Right there with you Bill. These drills are dirt cheap, but are very tough. Especially in aluminum but even mild or alloy.

    Kennametal Beyond Evolution cutoff. Probably the most versatile and good-performing cutoff tool I know of. I use the KCU25 3mm inserts for nearly everything. Alloy, stainless, even aluminum.

    Allied spade drills. They’re just so tough and good at making a big deep hole. Are they fast, no. But a 2.5” HSS-co insert is like $80 and crazy tough.

    Ultradex inserted drills. When speed is more important these things paired with YG1 WCMX inserts are insane. We use a 2” drill in 1018 on a Haas lathe. 600 SFM, .005 IPR. Two inserts with three edges and between the two inserts I may have $15. The body is like $300.

    If I think of more I’ll add more.


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •