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Single point threading garolite

Machinist_max

Aluminum
Joined
Dec 15, 2016
I have a opportunity to do some cnc lathe work in XX Garolite. Basically looks like a 3/8 -16 cap screw finished.

How hard is this stuff to single point thread? Does it de-laminate pretty easily?

I have milled the plenty of g10, but have yet to turn any composites

This is the spec'd material

McMaster-Carr
 
It's not difficult, but it's a Bear. Post Machining treatment is the way to go. All the fibers are unstable after Turning. We have used a very light epoxy resin, post Turning. Obviously it needs to be an approved resin. That was the only way we had success. We weren't doing anything really tight, but for Threads I would guess you'd need to Thread under sized, and plan for build of the resin.

R
 
Why not just buy a piece and try? I've machined phenolics, machines fine, never had any delamination. Sharp edges like the tip of threads can be fragile.
Not sure what's up with the epoxy coating suggestion. The material you're looking at is a phenolic resin base, so unless your customer is ok with you adding epoxy on top, you're adding a foreign substance to the material. Also not sure how you'd do it, you'll never get a consistent epoxy thickness so it's not like you could cut your thread undersize, apply epoxy, and then end up with your thread the correct size. Might be fun to try some of that super thing penetrating epoxy on a piece of turned phenolic and see if you got any penetration.
 
I have a opportunity to do some cnc lathe work in XX Garolite. Basically looks like a 3/8 -16 cap screw finished.

How hard is this stuff to single point thread? Does it de-laminate pretty easily?

I have milled the plenty of g10, but have yet to turn any composites

This is the spec'd material

McMaster-Carr

Paper-based phenolic is a fairly homogeneous material, compared to the fabric-based grades. It's a walk in the park compared to G-10, but I hate working with G-10. If the material specified is supplied as "wound" rod, meaning impregnated paper layers wound on a small mandrel to make the needed diameter (then pressed to make it solid and thermally cured), you should have no real issues. As noted above, thread crests may tend to flake if the resin proportions are on the light side. Sometimes rod is made from strips sawed from sheets then ground to rod profile ("sheet" rod), which gives the rod some "preferred" (or NOT) lamination orientation. Not good for ultimate strength, or resistance to splitting. Getting a piece to try is the way to go if you haven't worked with it before.
 
Why not just buy a piece and try? I've machined phenolics, machines fine, never had any delamination. Sharp edges like the tip of threads can be fragile.
Not sure what's up with the epoxy coating suggestion. The material you're looking at is a phenolic resin base, so unless your customer is ok with you adding epoxy on top, you're adding a foreign substance to the material. Also not sure how you'd do it, you'll never get a consistent epoxy thickness so it's not like you could cut your thread undersize, apply epoxy, and then end up with your thread the correct size. Might be fun to try some of that super thing penetrating epoxy on a piece of turned phenolic and see if you got any penetration.

I'm not sure what "super thing" is, but what we used (no reference) was a spray on---about 15 minute dispensing container. It contained the fiber strays.

R
 
Just do it- sharp tools- but neutral rake- generous nose radius if you can get away with it. The stuff almost wants to crumble. Be ready for some dust- not sure that coolant is a good idea unless you want a muddy mess in the machine. That grade is not too abrasive but use carbide for turning, and I would consider HSS for the threading.
 








 
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