Soft Jaw best practices? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ripperj View Post
    Do you guys reuse you soft jaws for the same job, as in they have been taken off and reinstalled?
    Next time I setup a job like this I'm going to ream a pin hole or two for realignment purposes.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cole2534 View Post
    Next time I setup a job like this I'm going to ream a pin hole or two for realignment purposes.
    Just mill the ends of the jaws (straight line in Y)

    Then you can just indicate the ends of the jaws up.

    Or, what I usually do is just put the jaws in with the screws barely snug, then clamp on a part so the jaws center themselves in the X direction. Then open and tighten them. No need to get too complicated.

    And all of the advice G00 gave in post #10 I would agree with.

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  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ripperj View Post
    Do you guys reuse you soft jaws for the same job, as in they have been taken off and reinstalled?
    Do you make any kind of alignment marks or features to get both halves lined up.
    I have some fairly complicated soft jaws (multiple Z's, very thick, etc.) that I will reuse. For these, the back left corner of the fixed jaw is 0,0,0, and when I first make jaws like these, I ensure that the moving jaw X is also at 0 when I clamp down on the spacer.

    For some jaws, I can use the parts themselves to align the jaws (as DDM21 posted whilst I was typing my reply ). Put the soft jaws on the vise with the bolts barely snugged up, clamp down on the part(s), wiggle the clamped mass a little to see that the jaws have aligned to the part, then loosen and tighten. You can also verify alignment using features within the jaw cavities. Z is pretty easy, just make sure the soft jaws are firmly bedded before cutting, and then also when reinstalling.

    But yes, for simple soft jaws, I just recut them for each batch.

    I make my own soft jaws now. Any size I want (I have like 30 different sizes in my CAM library by now), customized bolt depths, and I know they are exactly the nominal dimensions, instead of assuming Monster Jaws are "exact," which they are often not.

    Regards.

    Mike

  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cole2534 View Post
    Hello.

    I was using some soft jaws this weekend (steel parts, AL jaws) and got to wondering if there any not-so-obvious tricks I should be using. Currently I'm talking round work, so the profiles are simple but I have a few questions-

    1) Do you the cut the jaw to exact size, or maybe a little over? For say a 1" diameter round feature, would you bore them to 1.000 or maybe 1.003"? Undersized will pinch and make them a pain to remove, too far O/S won't grip well.

    2) Do you cut any relief on the bottom of the relived profile? Either to accommodate the errant chip or unseen bur?

    3) Is it possible to safely get more than 2 items in soft jaws? I've always been taught and experienced that more than 2 objects (stacked laterally) in the jaws will leave at least 1 loose.

    4) Is using a roughing endmill to leave a serrated profile of sorts a benefit? I had a rougher in the TC so that's I used and it worked very well so was just curious.

    Thanks
    1 - I bore the jaws to "slightly" larger than necessary. By say, ".005"
    2 - I always cut a slight relief at the rear face of the jaw. I take a boring bar and machine the rear of the jaw, by the OD, back by .01" or so. Keeps the part from kicking out when clamped.
    3 - No. Too scary.
    4 - That works well when gripping castings.

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  7. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cole2534 View Post

    1) Do you the cut the jaw to exact size, or maybe a little over? For say a 1" diameter round feature, would you bore them to 1.000 or maybe 1.003"? Undersized will pinch and make them a pain to remove, too far O/S won't grip well.

    3) Is it possible to safely get more than 2 items in soft jaws? I've always been taught and experienced that more than 2 objects (stacked laterally) in the jaws will leave at least 1 loose.
    1) I cut a thou or two oversize which seems to work well.

    3) I cut a pair frequently. I space them apart as much as possible (3"+) They have to be the same size. So, if the machine just cut the outer profile and you're grabbing that, no issues. 3rd operation and the clamping feature includes how well it was seated in Z on a previous operation and that's a problem. A thou or two thickness variation and you might get away with it, but .005" can be a problem. Same issue with talon grips. I'll run pairs spaced apart, but if the width isn't very consistent I have to measure with calipers prior and keep the variation under .005"

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  9. #26
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    I saw this softjaw locator, thought it was a neat idea

    Soft Jaw Locator 47-000 - Edge Technology


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  10. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cole2534 View Post
    Next time I setup a job like this I'm going to ream a pin hole or two for realignment purposes.
    That's how I do mine. I leave the other jaw floating lightly tighten, then lock it down.

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