Spindel issues : replace / repair / move-on? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Have you considered that it could just be a high spot that could be stoned out? Really just blueing up a good holder should be good. They sell spotting blue at some auto parts stores or you can use Prussian blue oil paint.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ianagos View Post
    Have you considered that it could just be a high spot that could be stoned out? Really just blueing up a good holder should be good. They sell spotting blue at some auto parts stores or you can use Prussian blue oil paint.
    I have some Permatex Prussian Blue on order now and I'm hoping it is just a high spot just inside the nose. But I was thinking it would take more than a stone to correct. I'll try anything now starting with seeing how wide the high spot is because it could be just a nick, for all I know.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bones288 View Post
    I have some Permatex Prussian Blue on order now and I'm hoping it is just a high spot just inside the nose. But I was thinking it would take more than a stone to correct. I'll try anything now starting with seeing how wide the high spot is because it could be just a nick, for all I know.
    A tool holder with some diamond rolled in works great for that purpose. Just make sure it covers the whole of the spindle taper and clears any drive keys or draw bars etc.

    Cheers
    D

  4. #24
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    unnamed.jpg

    Here's the problem inside of my spindle. It bends in by almost 0.003" exactly.

    Any ideas if something like this COULD be ground out?

  5. #25
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    I think you could just Stone that out and live with slightly worse contact but I assume you arenít really pushing this old machine to the limit.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bones288 View Post
    unnamed.jpg

    Here's the problem inside of my spindle. It bends in by almost 0.003" exactly.

    Any ideas if something like this COULD be ground out?
    Huh, wonder what could have created that sort of deformation, aside from a huge smash on the face of the spindle at that point. Can't tell from the picture if that's what happened, but can't think of another way...

    Yes, as long as the rest of the spindle (and machine) is OK, then it's worth getting the taper reground. I'd do that over trying to stone or cut with a boring bar. There are companies that will come out and do the regrind in situ, or you can try to set up a high-quality die or air grinder in a vise to DIY. If the machine is otherwise good I'd have it done professionally, with a couple new holders blued and fit as checks when done.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Milland View Post
    Huh, wonder what could have created that sort of deformation, aside from a huge smash on the face of the spindle at that point. Can't tell from the picture if that's what happened, but can't think of another way...

    Yes, as long as the rest of the spindle (and machine) is OK, then it's worth getting the taper reground. I'd do that over trying to stone or cut with a boring bar. There are companies that will come out and do the regrind in situ, or you can try to set up a high-quality die or air grinder in a vise to DIY. If the machine is otherwise good I'd have it done professionally, with a couple new holders blued and fit as checks when done.
    I second that! We have some old Makino 40 tapers here that alot of the new guys start out on and you can imagine they take a beating. Our guy gets them right back to spec after I make sure everything is straight, level, and square.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bones288 View Post
    unnamed.jpg

    Here's the problem inside of my spindle. It bends in by almost 0.003" exactly.

    Any ideas if something like this COULD be ground out?
    Asides from the damaged area the taper looks in pretty decent shape imo.

    The problem looks to be the raised burr around the 'dig' thats preventing the tool holder seating properly. Id lap it as described before going to grinding. You just need to remove the raised burr, no real need to have that mark completely out from a functional standpoint.

    Stop thinking man and just do it!

    Cheers
    D

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    Quote Originally Posted by fmari --MariTool- View Post
    I have a grinding unit. It has its own reciprocating cylinder with a NSK air grinder in it. Just give it air and it moves in and out while grinding. I will post a picture once I am in the shop. I will never sell it.
    Must be one of those NSK Falcon units. I'd like to find one.

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    I would try stoning it out first, masking the good section with tape so I didn't hit it with the stone getting most of it out. I have done the home shop regrind myself with a high-end die grinder with preloaded bearings, had a taper ground 4 times by a rebuilder in Portland, and once by Setco. The only one I am happy with is the one done by Setco, but I am picky about spindle tapers. If it isn't perfect it won't last nearly as long, nor will your holders. The taper has to be slightly tight at the big end so the spindle nose expands a little when a tool is clamped into it. The tool holder taper and the spindle taper are not the same when done right.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demon73 View Post
    Stop thinking man and just do it!
    This made me laugh. Not the first time Iíve been told that.

    Iíll call Setco now. Thx all!

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    If it is soft I would scrape it out
    Bleu , scrape away the bleu , bleu , scrape away the bleu etc etc
    And keep doing so till the surrounding area gets bleu also
    You can stay very local with scraping And accurate

    Peter

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  14. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bones288 View Post
    This made me laugh. Not the first time Iíve been told that.

    Iíll call Setco now. Thx all!
    Me neither, I usually tell myself then wonder what all the fuss was about after its all done

    Cheers
    D

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter from Holland View Post
    If it is soft I would scrape it out
    Bleu , scrape away the bleu , bleu , scrape away the bleu etc etc
    And keep doing so till the surrounding area gets bleu also
    You can stay very local with scraping And accurate

    Peter
    Nice approach, especially as the damage is accessible. Id guess the spindle will be pretty hard but could use a small point on a grinder in the same way. Maybe a bit much for someone with no previous experience scraping for bearing though.

  16. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Demon73 View Post
    Nice approach, especially as the damage is accessible. Id guess the spindle will be pretty hard but could use a small point on a grinder in the same way. Maybe a bit much for someone with no previous experience scraping for bearing though.
    That works too even on a soft spindle Scraping is pretty basic and with a grinder you do not need much scraping skills even

    Peter

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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselpilot View Post
    Must be one of those NSK Falcon units. I'd like to find one.
    Awesome tool. I wish I could still find it.
    knobs on top control the quill extend speed and retract speed independantly. Jam nuts on threaded rod controls stroke. Cylinder is nice and tight. Great quality unit.

    img_7945.jpgimg_7943.jpgimg_7944.jpg


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