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Stuck machining about cutting taper shape.

chuck1203

Plastic
Joined
Sep 8, 2020
Hello, this is my first time to post in here. I am Japanese CNC machinist in Canada and using Fusion 360.

I really need you guys help about machining taper milling.

Top dia is 1.66" and bottom dia is 1.7" As you can see my attachments, bottom surface is flat.

In this case, which cutter should I use..? Dove tail cutter can be possible but worry about good surface finishing.

If you guys have good idea, it will be very helpful and I will become next level machinist :)
 

Attachments

  • taper cut.jpg
    taper cut.jpg
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  • taper cut 2.jpg
    taper cut 2.jpg
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Hello, this is my first time to post in here. I am Japanese CNC machinist in Canada and using Fusion 360.

I really need you guys help about machining taper milling.

Top dia is 1.66" and bottom dia is 1.7" As you can see my attachments, bottom surface is flat.

In this case, which cutter should I use..? Dove tail cutter can be possible but worry about good surface finishing.

If you guys have good idea, it will be very helpful and I will become next level machinist :)

@chuck1203
is there an online machining forum in Japan ? And if so, what is it like ?

Also your application, any idea or need of "form" tolerances and surface finishes ? Circularity or "Tapericity" - What material and condition of material (and if relevant hardness ? ) .
 
Maybe easier and faster but not better, nope :fight:

Them's fighting words. Better surface finish (no faceting), no quadrant steps, etc.

Not to mention, you don't just need a backdraft with that part, but some amount of true cylinder below, otherwise you'll spend ages doing a very shallow helix down to try to get a decent surface finish on the straight bore.

Like I said, lathe...
 
Them's fighting words. Better surface finish (no faceting), no quadrant steps, etc.

Not to mention, you don't just need a backdraft with that part, but some amount of true cylinder below, otherwise you'll spend ages doing a very shallow helix down to try to get a decent surface finish on the straight bore.

Like I said, lathe...

Fine, a turning center :D

In all seriousness I hardly get to use any of my manual lathes and kind of miss them :o
 
Turning is always faster than milling.
Yet if all you have is a mill or the part has other ops to be done the mill loves and the lathe can not do????
Is the OP making 2 or 50,000 parts?
Bob
 
For draft on cavity work I believe we buy or did buy them in half degree increments up to 3 degrees and I think 10. But with Catia and Gibbs now importing 3d models not as much the need unless cranking handles.

Brent
 
...you don't just need a backdraft with that part, but some amount of true cylinder below, otherwise you'll spend ages doing a very shallow helix down to try to get a decent surface finish on the straight bore.

Like I said, lathe...

I don't think there IS any straight bore-it's just the poor placement of the dimension lines on the "drawing" that makes it look that way, at first glance.
 








 
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