Table Riser Best Practices
Close
Login to Your Account
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    California
    Posts
    51
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    5

    Default Table Riser Best Practices

    Had a quick question regarding table risers that I was hoping to get some input on. I've been doing some digging, but I haven't been able to find anything on this subject (which may be due to not knowing the appropriate terminology).

    Some background: I have a 1992 Fanuc Robodrill Drill Mate T-10 that I'm cleaning up and generally learning my way around. As received, the machine was equipped with a riser bolted to the table that the vise was mounted on (see image). The robo has a pretty large minimum nose to table gap, and the previous owner bolted a fairly substantial cast iron plate with some 2-4-6 Blocks as spacers in order to fill that gap. I've been getting things cleaned up and have turned my attention to leveling the machine and how I want to do workholding.

    I've acquired toolholders from Maritool with the shortest gage length possible, but that leaves me with the rather significant gap to fill getting up off the table.

    My question is, what is the best approach to bring the work holding surface up? I would like to have an actual fixture plate instead of just a single T-slot. I could keep the cast iron plate on and machine in my own threaded and reamed holes, but the mass of the cast iron plate seems less than ideal, given the relatively like table weight capacity. I could remove the cast iron and replace it with something lighter to reduce the momentum of the table during rapids, but it's not obvious to me what the best approach would be. Level/tram the machine in without the plate, then machine it in place? Purchase a ground plate and some precise 2-4-6 blocks (if the current ones aren't matched) and do a similar stack up as there is now?

    Any suggestions or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

    img_20211020_145528-1-1-2.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails img_20211020_145528-1-.jpg  
    Last edited by Djwade; 10-22-2021 at 09:16 PM. Reason: Photo rotated

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    North Carolina
    Posts
    409
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    108
    Likes (Received)
    207

    Default

    We use Orange vises as our foundation, and then put pallets on them as needed (or use them as vises, obviously). That's high enough for Speedios, which I would imagine is about the same as your Robodrill at about 7" minimum nose to table.

    If that wasn't enough I'd throw them on some 2" blocks of 6061. Orange makes a QD mount that would also work, but we never pull the vises so it would be a waste.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    California
    Posts
    51
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LOTT View Post
    We use Orange vises as our foundation, and then put pallets on them as needed (or use them as vises, obviously). That's high enough for Speedios, which I would imagine is about the same as your Robodrill at about 7" minimum nose to table.

    If that wasn't enough I'd throw them on some 2" blocks of 6061. Orange makes a QD mount that would also work, but we never pull the vises so it would be a waste.
    Doing some digging, looks like the spindle nose to table on mine seems to be about 9.5”. I’d like to be able to get the cutters below the top of the jaws on the vise, so I would imagine I’d want somewhere around the same 6-7” rise that’s on now, perhaps a little less.

    Would switching the 246 blocks and plate out for a large box section tube of aluminum be better? Seems that a solid wall along the x axis would be much more rigid than supporting a heavy plate in 5 points.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Minnesota
    Posts
    2,291
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    3177
    Likes (Received)
    1668

    Default

    If it were me, I'd avoid using aluminum. It can cause galvanic corrosion issues.

  5. Likes Djwade liked this post
  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    West Virginia
    Posts
    1,518
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    954
    Likes (Received)
    679

    Default

    I know what I did is not what your after but it's another idea. I have Kurt single vises on one machine (Brothers) and Orange vises on another. With the Kurt vises I did as shown in the photo below. With the Orange vises I didn't have to add any height. I think that on a small mill it's hard to beat the versatility of one or two Orange double vises on your table. They can be single vises, double vises, or a pallet fixture. I bought one of their 12" wide pallets and made a vacuum fixture out of it.




    file_000.jpg

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    California
    Posts
    51
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mhajicek View Post
    If it were me, I'd avoid using aluminum. It can cause galvanic corrosion issues.
    A very good point. Would certainly be better to have a steel fixture plate, so perhaps I can integrate the two together.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    North Carolina
    Posts
    409
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    108
    Likes (Received)
    207

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mhajicek View Post
    If it were me, I'd avoid using aluminum. It can cause galvanic corrosion issues.
    I have a 4th on an aluminum plate, and am hoping the coating I sprayed on there keeps the corrosion at bay. Maybe we can revisit this thread in 7-10 years when I change the setup....

    Quote Originally Posted by Djwade View Post
    Doing some digging, looks like the spindle nose to table on mine seems to be about 9.5”. I’d like to be able to get the cutters below the top of the jaws on the vise, so I would imagine I’d want somewhere around the same 6-7” rise that’s on now, perhaps a little less.

    Would switching the 246 blocks and plate out for a large box section tube of aluminum be better? Seems that a solid wall along the x axis would be much more rigid than supporting a heavy plate in 5 points.
    9" is a lot. Not sure tube is a good idea, at that point I'd just leave the plate on there. It's a 30 taper, hogging isn't really the point.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    California
    Posts
    51
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LOTT View Post
    9" is a lot. Not sure tube is a good idea, at that point I'd just leave the plate on there. It's a 30 taper, hogging isn't really the point.
    Certainly is an option. I need to sweep the surface and see what it's like, but in the event it's not parallel to the axis travels, would it be best to machine it in place to correct once I'm sure the base saddle is level and square? Doesn't seem like the best idea, but I'm not sure what a better approach would be.


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •